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Old 28th April 2019, 19:20   #51
Comfortably Numb
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Rover 75 Saloon

Join Date: Dec 2017
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Thanks all for your replies - I can't understand why neither general google searches nor specific searches in both suppliers under "Clutch" did not produce results. However, and thanks Brian for confirming this, after cleaning the guide sleeve and rubbing it with 800 grit wet & dry, before again cleaning, then lightly greasing it (I first sprayed it with 3in 1PTFE oil spray), left for 10 minutes, wiped off, then thinly applied grease, it slides smoothly on the tube. I used a stiff paintbrush and vacuum cleaner to clean out the bellhousing, and was a little perturbed to find small metalic particles in there. More worryingly, when I removed the clutch plates, the friction material was not connected to either side of the driven plate, no rivets left, and the rivet holes in the 1.5 - 2mm thick friction material were large and elongated. No wonder the clutch was juddering! It's hard to know what the truth is , chicken or egg, re the demise of this clutch. Usually a clutch slips beyond driving by the time it starts wearing the rivets. The DMF seems to be within radial rotation tolerances (39 -40 mm at the rim before the ring gear starts to turn), and apart from 1, light, diagonal score on the friction face, it appears to be smooth and flat. Can someone confirm if it is normal for the DMF to sound like it is hitting the end of a spring at either end of its free rotation, before it starts to compress said springs, resulting in the total radial movement indicated above? And actually, although the plastic clips that hold the inner and outer plastic sleeve together on the slave, had come apart ? , and although the thrust bearing had over 1mm of end play, it still rotated fairly smoothly, felt like there was still grease in it (I may break it apart and check) and the fingers on the pressure plate were not badly or unevenly worn. And would the lack of springs in the driven plate indicate that it was the original one?
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