Where does the water go (2.5V6)? - Page 3

Salad-Dodger · 22nd May 2016, 17:33

Well seals on water pumps are a bit unreliable. Running a V6 with a leak in the coolant system, some would say, is folly. It may carry on as its doing, or it may get worse over-night! You will need to keep a good eye on it if its passing coolant. I cheked my headder tank just two days before the seal let go and I was quite confident it was alright. I was so annoyed that I'm now working on a decent coolant level sensor. Something that most vehicles have had for years but MGR decided not to fit to these cars.
I did change the main belt when I fitted the new pump. It had had a good soaking of coolant when the pump let go plus I had a spare new one in the cupboard. Good luck with it, and keep a keen eye on that coolant level!
Steve

Salad-Dodger · 22nd May 2016, 19:02

Quote:

Originally Posted by Simon W

Some Rovers and MGs had one - here it is. Could it be used in a 75/ZT mod?

Yes, you are correct. There were some Rovers that had them, but alas, the 75 didn't get one! Steve

satandave · 22nd May 2016, 19:48

The other day I was going to pick up my mate from station and got in to a little bit of traffic nothing to heavy and suddenly temperature shot right up to 12 oclock with red light on where it normally sits quite happy at the 9 oclock position. I also had to top up with a little bit of water as header tank looked empty.

Having just had this engine put in I am a bit nervous as I don't want another engine blowing on me.

I know they changed water pump so guessing it not going to have failed seals after just a few weeks and car has been running fine since then driving from Norfolk to London and back and lots of local runs. Just last week its happened twice although the second time temp went straight down after I started moving.

Any ideas, I haven't looked underneath yet to look for leaks.

motmann · 22nd May 2016, 20:41

Quote:

Originally Posted by Salad-Dodger

Yes, you are correct. There were some Rovers that had them, but alas, the 75 didn't get one! Steve

hey hey! my 04 zr has one....and it works!

Last14 · 22nd May 2016, 22:21

Quote:

Originally Posted by Salad-Dodger

Well seals on water pumps are a bit unreliable. Running a V6 with a leak in the coolant system, some would say, is folly. It may carry on as its doing, or it may get worse over-night! You will need to keep a good eye on it if its passing coolant. I cheked my headder tank just two days before the seal let go and I was quite confident it was alright. I was so annoyed that I'm now working on a decent coolant level sensor. Something that most vehicles have had for years but MGR decided not to fit to these cars.
I did change the main belt when I fitted the new pump. It had had a good soaking of coolant when the pump let go plus I had a spare new one in the cupboard. Good luck with it, and keep a keen eye on that coolant level!
Steve

Steve - agree with you , running the KV6 with a leak is folly.....but....having to get the belts/water pump done only after 20k km or so is painful on the wallet. Of course it would be even more painful if the engine cooks itself as a result... thats why i was wondering if this is the type of fault that will continue as is, or get drastically worse. You mention the pump 'let go' - did it fail to the point that it could not hold any water at all? Like at the moment its a slight drip. over say 2-3 days, it will drop to just under the min mark in header tank. I'm checking most days.

satandave - if the coolant systems been recently filled up with the new engine install, and you can't see leaks anywhere, it might just need a few goes at bleeding it. after my belts were done i had similar issue for couple weeks and needed to do some extra bleeding and top up to get it right. After that it was good.

a low coolant alarm makes perfect sense on the KV6.....obviously not to MGR...

SD1too · 23rd May 2016, 08:42

Quote:

Originally Posted by satandave

... got in to a little bit of traffic ... suddenly temperature shot right up to 12 oclock with red light on ... I also had to top up with a little bit of water as header tank looked empty.

Check that your radiator fan works on slow speed using the 'demist test'.

Quote:

I know they changed water pump ... its happened twice although the second time temp went straight down after I started moving.

The chances are that your garage hasn't bled the cooling system according to MGR instructions, so you have an air lock. Here's how to do it. Be sure to follow each stage exactly.

Simon

satandave · 23rd May 2016, 12:47

Thanks guys.

I did pop up garage today and mechanic had a look and seemed to think that the water pump wasn't pumping the coolant as well as it should.

Could this be a symptom of them not bleeding the system properly though or have I just got really unlucky and new water pump knackered.

Going to take it back in for them to have a look at next week as wont need it so much as no school runs to do.

But might try bleeding the system in meantime, should I completely drain system or just remove bleed screw and go from the point where coolant starts flowing.

SD1too · 23rd May 2016, 14:31

Quote:

Originally Posted by satandave

... mechanic had a look and seemed to think that the water pump wasn't pumping the coolant as well as it should.

That's nonsense Dave.

Quote:

But might try bleeding the system in meantime, should I completely drain system or just remove bleed screw and go from the point where coolant starts flowing.

If it was my car, I would start at the beginning by draining it completely. When the coolant comes out, look for any fine copper coloured flakes floating in it.

Simon

satandave · 23rd May 2016, 15:08

SD1too well he may not have said it exactly like that.

But he seemed to think it wasn't working as well as he would expect.

Don't think he would be saying it to get extra work etc as they guaranteed the work so wouldn't be getting extra money for it. And think he probably had enough of working on my car lately with the engine swap out etc.

I will have a go at draining the coolant and refilling it using the procedure on here, are there any special tools needed of just sockets and things for drain plug etc.

SD1too · 23rd May 2016, 18:39

Quote:

Originally Posted by satandave

SD1too well he may not have said it exactly like that. But he seemed to think it wasn't working as well as he would expect.
Don't think he would be saying it to get extra work

I think he was saying that because he didn't know what else to say.
Water pumps can leak through the shaft seal/bearing, but since they're directly driven mechanically they cannot "not pump as well as they should".

Quote:

I will have a go at draining the coolant and refilling it using the procedure on here, are there any special tools needed ...

No, nothing unusual. Let us know how you get on.

Simon

22nd May 2016, 17:33	#21
Salad-Dodger Gets stuck in MG ZT-T 190 Join Date: Feb 2015 Location: Chatham Posts: 592 Thanks: 34 Thanked 66 Times in 62 Posts	Well seals on water pumps are a bit unreliable. Running a V6 with a leak in the coolant system, some would say, is folly. It may carry on as its doing, or it may get worse over-night! You will need to keep a good eye on it if its passing coolant. I cheked my headder tank just two days before the seal let go and I was quite confident it was alright. I was so annoyed that I'm now working on a decent coolant level sensor. Something that most vehicles have had for years but MGR decided not to fit to these cars. I did change the main belt when I fitted the new pump. It had had a good soaking of coolant when the pump let go plus I had a spare new one in the cupboard. Good luck with it, and keep a keen eye on that coolant level! Steve

22nd May 2016, 19:48	#23
satandave Regular poster MG ZT-T 2.5 V6 190+ Join Date: Feb 2016 Location: Wymondham Posts: 37 Thanks: 9 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	The other day I was going to pick up my mate from station and got in to a little bit of traffic nothing to heavy and suddenly temperature shot right up to 12 oclock with red light on where it normally sits quite happy at the 9 oclock position. I also had to top up with a little bit of water as header tank looked empty. Having just had this engine put in I am a bit nervous as I don't want another engine blowing on me. I know they changed water pump so guessing it not going to have failed seals after just a few weeks and car has been running fine since then driving from Norfolk to London and back and lots of local runs. Just last week its happened twice although the second time temp went straight down after I started moving. Any ideas, I haven't looked underneath yet to look for leaks.

23rd May 2016, 12:47	#27
satandave Regular poster MG ZT-T 2.5 V6 190+ Join Date: Feb 2016 Location: Wymondham Posts: 37 Thanks: 9 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Thanks guys. I did pop up garage today and mechanic had a look and seemed to think that the water pump wasn't pumping the coolant as well as it should. Could this be a symptom of them not bleeding the system properly though or have I just got really unlucky and new water pump knackered. Going to take it back in for them to have a look at next week as wont need it so much as no school runs to do. But might try bleeding the system in meantime, should I completely drain system or just remove bleed screw and go from the point where coolant starts flowing.

23rd May 2016, 15:08	#29
satandave Regular poster MG ZT-T 2.5 V6 190+ Join Date: Feb 2016 Location: Wymondham Posts: 37 Thanks: 9 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	SD1too well he may not have said it exactly like that. But he seemed to think it wasn't working as well as he would expect. Don't think he would be saying it to get extra work etc as they guaranteed the work so wouldn't be getting extra money for it. And think he probably had enough of working on my car lately with the engine swap out etc. I will have a go at draining the coolant and refilling it using the procedure on here, are there any special tools needed of just sockets and things for drain plug etc.