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Old 31st July 2020, 22:03   #11771
Rover 75 Tourer
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Put tourer on axle stands to strip off rear sub frame torefurbish and change the upper suspension arms. The 19 year originals have started to get holes where holes have no right to be.
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Old 31st July 2020, 22:08   #11772
goltho
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bl52krz View Post
Sorry, but the pcv replacement you have fitted is not maintenance free. . A misconception put about by the unknowing muckcaniks.
No need to apologise, nor indeed to post in BOLD BLUE. From the research I've done ("by all accounts"), it's held as being maintenance free.

However if you have good information to the contrary, post it (preferably in plain ink) and we'll have a read. And if by Unknowing MuckCanick you mean me, please - if you've something to correct in the interests of good practice, just say it. I'm certainly open to it. I'm less keen though about snarky names.

Dougie.
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R75 C2 RJBLH Connoisseur CDTi Auto Saloon
• Built 08/02/2005 @14:57 hrs: Registered 26/08/2005
• 122nd of 141 built that day
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• 137,000 miles

Last edited by goltho; 31st July 2020 at 22:14..
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Old 1st August 2020, 00:00   #11773
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Got the Xtrons fitted today with all cables and antennas run out. Reverse camera wiring has been ran through to the boot but have yet to fit the camera itself, pondering where to fix it to.
So, centre console upgrade is complete for now, looks a lot more up to date in my view, it will likely get a coat of paint in the future to change the technical grey but there’s plenty else in the list ahead of anything like that tbh.

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Old 1st August 2020, 04:33   #11774
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Maxfly View Post
Got the Xtrons fitted today with all cables and antennas run out. Reverse camera wiring has been ran through to the boot but have yet to fit the camera itself, pondering where to fix it to.
So, centre console upgrade is complete for now, looks a lot more up to date in my view, it will likely get a coat of paint in the future to change the technical grey but there’s plenty else in the list ahead of anything like that tbh.
Wow - really smart!!

Dougie.
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R75 C2 RJBLH Connoisseur CDTi Auto Saloon
• Built 08/02/2005 @14:57 hrs: Registered 26/08/2005
• 122nd of 141 built that day
• British Racing Green Pearlescent (HFF)
• Sandstone leather with black piping (SPJ)
• 137,000 miles
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Old 1st August 2020, 06:58   #11775
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Originally Posted by suzublu View Post
After fitting the new n/side front caliper the other day, went for a drive last night, or should I say, tried to Forgot to bleed the brakes So today bled the new caliper, thought I'd do the others too, well, one of them anyway N/side rear was fine, replaced that last year, but both off side nipples wouldn't budge So, half bled at least
typical poolie half job harry
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Old 1st August 2020, 07:11   #11776
Mike Noc
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Quote:
Originally Posted by goltho View Post
No need to apologise, nor indeed to post in BOLD BLUE. Dougie.

Chill out mate - if you look at all of David's posts they are in bold blue - he obviously likes it.

The forum is a broad church, although not as broad as it used to be mind.
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Old 1st August 2020, 10:31   #11777
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Changed the reverse light switch which turned out easier than expected. Replaced the air filter but chickened out on the pcv filter as the cover wouldn't go past the leak off pipes. Is it just a case of pulling on the plastic T connectors with mole grips to get them out of the injector?
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Old 1st August 2020, 11:13   #11778
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[QUOTE]
Quote:
Originally Posted by UpWeardale View Post
Changed the reverse light switch which turned out easier than expected. Replaced the air filter but chickened out on the pcv filter as the cover wouldn't go past the leak off pipes. Is it just a case of pulling on the plastic T connectors with mole grips to get them out of the injector?[/QUOTE
]

Hi Andy.
First remove the little spring clips, then use pair if pliers to grip the T connector firmly and tug up upwards gently.

1

2

to remove the T connector use the same pliers as you use for removing the spring clips.
3

you only need to remove three
4

Have another go also if you wanted you could purchase these below.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/173091164085
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Old 1st August 2020, 14:09   #11779
clf
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Quote:
Originally Posted by goltho View Post
From the research I've done ("by all accounts"), it's held as being maintenance free.

However if you have good information to the contrary.

Dougie.
There is plenty on the BMW forums regarding the misconception of 'fit for life'. There are moving parts in (valve and spring). Plastic and seals can fatigue, particularly with cheap ones, there is supposed to be a diaphragm within the separator section, that can become brittle and fail (which I think is difficult to inspect unless it is cracked open).

They are, I believe on a service schedule now for BMWs (I think that was stated on these forums, but not sure). They generally are expected to last and be more reliable than a filter, however, they are NOT a fit and forget item.

The 'research' that I did, by most accounts were they were maintenance free, and last many many more miles than the filter. However, cheap ones fail in as little as 20,000 miles, BMW sourced ones can last for 100,000+ miles. However I think they get replaced now around 45,000 - I cannot recall this figure now, but it went from something like lifetime to 90k to 45k (I will let you search for that data if you are interested, as I am not).

After my own (for a personal decision) research, I decided not to replace it, as the replacement of the vortex itself, even though it was supposed to be three times less often, was more involved than the extra 5 minutes it takes to do the filter. For the cost of them, I do it every service now, (they had a relatively long service schedule themselves! 45/50k miles at the beginning?). I am able to remove its cover without disconnecting anything else, plus it makes me look at the condition of the injector pipe work and cabling. Add in you get to have a look for any sludge build up, for if there is a sludge build up, it will show in there.

---------------------------------------------------------------------------

Those that have them fitted, particularly a cheap one from eBay, and have a slightly smokey idle, or rough running, it may be worth changing it. There were reports of the diaphragm in the separator failing, which apparently can cause these issues.
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Old 1st August 2020, 15:57   #11780
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On holiday last week so get a few little jobs done.
1. Change brake fluid. Check now brakes feel great.
2. Polish head lights. Check. Now see where i am going.
3. Empty oil catch can. Check.
4. Fit new under tray bolts/clips. Check.
5. Change coolant. Now its get excitingish. Dropped old coolant. Openend bleed plastic bleed bolt, lifted expansion tank etc. Got water out of bleed tightened it up and because flat for screw driver jigged used mole grips. You dont need 3 guesses it snapped, doh. No bother i thought, onto my local factors, sorry its too old. Onto Rimmers, not got one. Maybe more tricky than i thought.
Went to my local scrapyard. 5 zt,s but diesel or k. Tried the freelander,s, same. Ended up taking the metal bleed pipe plus various rubber pipes off k engine (same diameter) to try make one up.
Trawling internet next night found one on Rimmers looked rightish. £70 quid later it came, its the right 1 for 3/4 of its length but it turns into the o/s while mine is longer and straight down to bottom of rad.
What to do. Well i got a swaged metal join pipe of E Bay. Joined the top new pipe with the bottom old pipe.
Fitted today, bled up and a nice long run. Sorted.
Thank goodness, but reminded me that our cars are going to be more interesting to keep on the road.
Or i should not be so ham fisted, LOL.
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