Upgrades and Fixing Many Niggles - ZTT cdti

[surprisingskoda]

I've been through the How-to section and found info for some things, but i still have more questions!


I've been trying to build the perfect daily out of a cheapo ZTT I rescued in December from a fateful end in a crusher.



It's a Trophy Blue and although dented and scratched, very solid. It's a Jan 2004 car and fairly low spec. It came with very scabby wheels but is now on Gridspokes I took off a donor car.

(Worth mentioning I have a Solar Red 02 ZT 190 already and an 02 ZT 190 spares car with a blown engine, also an 06 Silver ZT CDTi I bought locally which has become a donor car for this ZTT.)


1. Can auto-locking be disabled? Using standard diagnostics? It's highly frustrating on a car I be jumping in and out of all day.


2. What's involved in swapping the Halogen headlights out for a set of Xenon projectors? Is the wiring in place to add level sensors? Light Control Module need changed?


3. Braking effort is poor. Is that just a common thing? I think I read that 190 brakes are an upgrade?



4. It takes a very firm press of the clutch to be able to shift gear. I know this isn't normal, the other cars were all much easier to shift. Fluid is fine - I'm asking if it's common for shift linkage to get stiff, or release lever to seize up, etc?



5. Rear wiper is intermittent and although switched off, occasionally wipes 3 times when the car is put into reverse. Doesn't do this all the time. Why is it doing that when the rear wiper is very definitely not on at the stalk? Are stalks troublesome?


6. What modifications can I do to the standard engine to give it a little more lift? Completely standard 2004 cdti.


7. Bootlid doesn't open, although the glass hatch does. Common failures? Latch? Handle? Wiring between body and lid? Point me in the right direction please as the handle microswitch is OK and the whole handle looks very unlikely to come off pleasantly (very rusty security torx).





That'll start. I've been ironing out a host of issues with the car in the hope of making what should be the ultimate daily hack (for me) for the next couple of years, and it's finally getting (almost) there.

[clf]

Originally Posted by surprisingskoda

I've been through the How-to section and found info for some things, but i still have more questions!


I've been trying to build the perfect daily out of a cheapo ZTT I rescued in December from a fateful end in a crusher.



It's a Trophy Blue and although dented and scratched, very solid. It's a Jan 2004 car and fairly low spec. It came with very scabby wheels but is now on Gridspokes I took off a donor car.

(Worth mentioning I have a Solar Red 02 ZT 190 already and an 02 ZT 190 spares car with a blown engine, also an 06 Silver ZT CDTi I bought locally which has become a donor car for this ZTT.)


1. Can auto-locking be disabled? Yes Using standard diagnostics? No, it needs a T4 (mgr software) or if I recall TOAF (A brilliant effort at an alternative written by Polish blokes - but it does have bugs, and could cause issues - use at your own risk, Facebook link) It's highly frustrating on a car I be jumping in and out of all day.


2. What's involved in swapping the Halogen headlights out for a set of Xenon projectors? Bumper off, swap out, job done. Is the wiring in place to add level sensors?No - but the levelling in the LSM will control them, I believe. Light Control Module need changed? To go 'factory' with the self levellers, and then washers too, you will also need to add washers and a different alarm module, then program it in with wither TOAF or T4. After that, you will then need to have the LSM programmed to the car too. But as far as I can tell, you will still pass MOT without the washers (but WILL need to work if you do fit them for our MOT), as long as you can control the height using the LSM.

3. Braking effort is poor. Is that just a common thing? I think I read that 190 brakes are an upgrade? 190 brakes are a great upgrade, even just the fronts, however, I would flush out and replace the fluid as a first step.



4. It takes a very firm press of the clutch to be able to shift gear. I know this isn't normal, the other cars were all much easier to shift. Fluid is fine - I'm asking if it's common for shift linkage to get stiff, or release lever to seize up, etc? Mine is an auto, so cannot comment on this



5. Rear wiper is intermittent and although switched off, occasionally wipes 3 times when the car is put into reverse. Doesn't do this all the time. Why is it doing that when the rear wiper is very definitely not on at the stalk? Are stalks troublesome? I have a saloon, however, I have read that the rear wiper will wipe when the fronts are on, once you select reverse. I could imagine this could also happen if you have auto wipers even if it is not raining.


6. What modifications can I do to the standard engine to give it a little more lift? Completely standard 2004 cdti. A remap/mafless remap. An EGR bypass (which doesnt do a helluva lot to be honest), or clean out the EGR and inlet manifold. Seek out Mark Stirling via Facebook once lockdown is over. Has a T4, knows how to use it, knows the cars, is passionate about them - be warned, he is in demand.

Also, check the intercooler hose is seated securely, it will be worth replacing the seals at its elbow (tip: remove bumper, and headlight, to make it 'thunk' into place - the difference is night and day even when I thought it was in place, until I redid it with headlight removed)

Check too, your operating temperature (option 7.0), not via the gauge! You may find that it will not be reaching the magic 88 degrees. A simple fix is an inline thermostat (images have been lost, but may find similar HEREon post 8) 'shoved' into the top hose (my favourite is a Wahler 3029.89 - a 3029.92 would be better, but are difficult to source and expensive). Lots and lots of info on this site about it. Before fitting though, make sure its bowl is relatively watertight (not watertight)

7. Bootlid doesn't open, although the glass hatch does. Common failures? Latch? Handle? Wiring between body and lid? Point me in the right direction please as the handle microswitch is OK and the whole handle looks very unlikely to come off pleasantly (very rusty security torx). Saloon owner, but have not read of issues like this I am sure someone will be along to help.
A search may help?



That'll start. I've been ironing out a host of issues with the car in the hope of making what should be the ultimate daily hack (for me) for the next couple of years, and it's finally getting (almost) there.

Hope this helps get you started

[kitt]

Just a comment on the brakes, I have upgraded my CDTi to have the 190 brakes all-round with M-Tec disks, and OMFG do they stop…….

I then drove a standard brake car and thought I was going to crash, the only skids I got from that have now been washed out of my trousers LOL.

190 upgrade not cheap as you need to get them refurbed etc but worth every penny if your gonna keep the car.

[Tracker]

Can I ask what make of pads you're using with the MTEC discs?

[kitt]

This is the setup I have for the 190 Calipers

MINTEX PADS - MDB2620
MINTEX PADS - MDB1888

MTEC1305 - DIMPLED GROOVED BRAKE DISCS SKU:1002147
MTEC1306 - DIMPLED GROOVED BRAKE DISCS SKU:1005749

[clf]

Try unplugging the maf also to see if that improves things (it is a crude method to help check if it is within spec).

With toaf (if you are willing to try it) you can check the injector readings. A bottle of forte injector cleaner poured into a fresh fuel filter, start up for 20 seconds, the leave to soak overnight has improved running and performance for me before.

The above are doable yourself whilst the lockdown continues.

Sent from my SM-A600FN using Tapatalk

[surprisingskoda]

Originally Posted by kitt

Just a comment on the brakes, I have upgraded my CDTi to have the 190 brakes all-round with M-Tec disks, and OMFG do they stop…….

I then drove a standard brake car and thought I was going to crash, the only skids I got from that have now been washed out of my trousers LOL.

190 upgrade not cheap as you need to get them refurbed etc but worth every penny if your gonna keep the car.

I only picked up on it ages ago when I reading about something else. But it'll not cost too much as I have a 190 spares car.
I wouldn't say my 190+ had all that amazing brakes though. Better than the cdti though which yes does feel as though I could get into bother should an emergency stopping situation arise.

[surprisingskoda]

Originally Posted by clf

Try unplugging the maf also to see if that improves things (it is a crude method to help check if it is within spec).

With toaf (if you are willing to try it) you can check the injector readings. A bottle of forte injector cleaner poured into a fresh fuel filter, start up for 20 seconds, the leave to soak overnight has improved running and performance for me before.

The above are doable yourself whilst the lockdown continues.

Thanks for the very thorough answer.
It's good to know the Xenons would level themselves. A bit of reading last night told me that there are Xenon projectors, and Halogen projectors. If that's the case, I can go for Halogen, which I prefer, and thus I wouldn't need the washers for MOT anyway.


I prefer a halogen-type with good bulbs over the white light of Xenon, from a rally background and living in the countryside has always shown me that "warm" light is way better than "cold" light.

[clf]

Originally Posted by surprisingskoda

Thanks for the very thorough answer.
It's good to know the Xenons would level themselves. A bit of reading last night told me that there are Xenon projectors, and Halogen projectors. If that's the case, I can go for Halogen, which I prefer, and thus I wouldn't need the washers for MOT anyway.


I prefer a halogen-type with good bulbs over the white light of Xenon, from a rally background and living in the countryside has always shown me that "warm" light is way better than "cold" light.

The xenons would not level themselves, but they would be levelled by the control already on the LSM . I prefer the cold light in country roads, but many years ago (before xenons were a thing lol) living in belfast, I fitted a pair of ring bulbs that had a strong yellow output. They were great with street lights, and seemed to balance out the light from streetlights on the road. They may still be available if you like the iodine type output?

They are HERE and HERE (I dont think the halogen headlights are H4 though)

[surprisingskoda]

Appreciate. Been using the car and have identified a few more niggles to get going through so plenty to keep busy with.