My KV6 Cambelt change

[beinet1]

Hi all,

I have had the new thermostat laying around for months now. I decided to go on with it today and replaced it through the "key hole". I replaced the thermostat only. I found the O-ring seal on the old thermostat hard and "square". This might be the leak point. The O-rings on the other parts was soft and round and re-fitted back together with the new thermostat. For all I know, there was nothing wrong with the old thermostat. It might only need a new O-ring. I was not able to complete the job due to lack of OAT coolant. I will get this tomorrow and complete the job. I will report back after using the car for a few days.

[beinet1]

Hi all,

Just did a quick edit to this thread, which brought back the images.

[Jim Jamieson]

I’m glad you managed to recover the photos.
This is a very important topic visited by the many who have been carrying out this job.
I just hope Photobucket don’t find a way round it

I will be doing this again soon, this time to my project car just to be on the safe side.

[beinet1]

Originally Posted by beinet1

Hi all,

I have had the new thermostat laying around for months now. I decided to go on with it today and replaced it through the "key hole". I replaced the thermostat only. I found the O-ring seal on the old thermostat hard and "square". This might be the leak point. The O-rings on the other parts was soft and round and re-fitted back together with the new thermostat. For all I know, there was nothing wrong with the old thermostat. It might only need a new O-ring. I was not able to complete the job due to lack of OAT coolant. I will get this tomorrow and complete the job. I will report back after using the car for a few days.

I promissed to report back, but a bit late

I seems that a new thermostat did not cure the problem and I suspect it to be the water pump. The car is put in storage for the winter, so unaccessible at the moment. I will look closer into it when putting it back on the road in the spring.

[SD1too]

Originally Posted by beinet1

I seems that a new thermostat did not cure the problem and I suspect it to be the water pump.

Hello Einar,

My latest theory is that the 'O' ring compression might be due to movement of the thermostat housing. I have fitted the type with stabilising lugs but more importantly I have pushed the clips on the straight pipe hard up against the water pump and thermostat housings. This keeps the whole assembly extremely rigid but only time will tell.

Simon

Update: Five years later and no coolant leaks into the "V" so I'm satisfied with my reasoning and diagnosis.

[Best_of_British]

Thankyou for taking the time to restore pics.

Sent from my GT-I9195 using Tapatalk

[p2roverman]

Originally Posted by kaiser

It would be nice to see where the marks are on the rear sprockets once the engine is in the safe mode. There are two marks on each sprocket, and I think the four marks on each set of sprockets should be in line in the safe mode.
If so, then that is a quick and dead easy check on the timing, since these marks are on keyed sprockets. It is as easy to pick out an error then, as it is to pick up a skew telephone pole by comparing a row of poles.!
The safe bolt is fine to use to take off the flywheel bolt. The torque arm so far from the center makes it absolutely impossible that the bolt will shear.
A belt replacement disturbs nothing, since the only determination of timing is the spacing between the teeth on the belt, and all belts are virtually exactly the same, you are talking tolerances way below one per cent. New belt, and you are spot on with timing, provided you keep your markings, i.e. not slipping a tooth.

I'm in the process of doing my first KV6 belt change and this thread is proving extremely useful, thanks for the photos. However, I suspect the valve timing may be slightly out as this car does seem down on performance and economy compared with my other KV6 (vis motors are working). I assume the timing can be checked as correct by aligning the marks on the seconday sprockets. Currently I.m doing the primary belt first, but it seems I cannot finally torque up the adjustable sprockets on the inlet cams until the secondary belts are put on? I might add I do have the proper tools. Advice from those who've done the job before much appreciated.

[kaiser]

Originally Posted by p2roverman

I'm in the process of doing my first KV6 belt change and this thread is proving extremely useful, thanks for the photos. However, I suspect the valve timing may be slightly out as this car does seem down on performance and economy compared with my other KV6 (vis motors are working). I assume the timing can be checked as correct by aligning the marks on the seconday sprockets. Currently I.m doing the primary belt first, but it seems I cannot finally torque up the adjustable sprockets on the inlet cams until the secondary belts are put on? I might add I do have the proper tools. Advice from those who've done the job before much appreciated.

If the marks are where you like them, yes, then you can tighten the bolts!
Provided the new belt has been fitted!


If, as I suspect, the marks do not align, then I would concentrate on the cams with sprockets both ends. With engine in safe mode, and a new belt correctly fitted, tensioned and moved through the motions a couple of times by hand, loosen the front sprocket and get the marks on the rear where you want them. Tighten the loose sprockets and fit the rear belt with the marks in alignment.

This assumes that the marking on the rear sprockets are the ones you need, or that you have made alternative marks with a white paint (no NOT Tipex).
I will be -very-, no --extremely--, --- no-- Supercalifragilisticexpialidociously, (THAT is it ), surprised if the factory marks are not the marks you need on the V6 Rover, assuming that is the car for which the engine was mainly intended, designed and built.
We know they had people at Rover that could time the 1.8, let's hope somebody let them loose on the V6 in a moment of sheer madness.
That would make a bit of sense, for a change!

But for the tools brigade (not using Tipex) show us your impeccably timed sprockets, and let's see where they are after doing the tool option.

First when I did my engine, the one cam was out of whack by I guess 15 degrees. That makes no sense, as the cam timing/marking on the two sets of heads MUST be identical. In that case, I had no compunction, no mercy and no doubt, all the dots must be in line, and that is where I fixed it, about 100000 km ago!

[p2roverman]

Kaiser, thanks so much for your post. It is exactly what my logic suggested I should do but confirmation from others was really needed. Job prompted by a bad power steering fluid leak, now an mot failure in the UK, plus the belts being 8 years old, and a water leak from the stat area - I have one of yours to fit. Bottom engine mount also shot.

[p2roverman]

Originally Posted by kaiser

This assumes that the marking on the rear sprockets are the ones you need, or that you have made alternative marks with a white paint (no NOT Tipex).

But for the tools brigade (not using Tipex) show us your impeccably timed sprockets, and let's see where they are after doing the tool option.

Why not use Tipex, or Snowpake, or any other type correction fluid?