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Old 2nd May 2020, 08:14   #21
skellum
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Both front to rears and front offside are corroded. The front had rotted just where it passed throug the bulkhead into the engine bay. I've used cupro nickel.
The front pipe is quite a complicated shape. Couldn't find any way to fit in one piece, so it now has a joint placed where the tester can see and inspect it.
Hopefully he'll be happy with the slight re-routing.
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Old 2nd May 2020, 10:13   #22
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Both front to rears and front offside are corroded. The front had rotted just where it passed throug the bulkhead into the engine bay. I've used cupro nickel.
The front pipe is quite a complicated shape. Couldn't find any way to fit in one piece, so it now has a joint placed where the tester can see and inspect it.
Hopefully he'll be happy with the slight re-routing.
The trick to the offside, and indeed the nearside front pipes is to make the very last bend where it passes though the grommet in the inner wing, on the car




The nearside rear pipe needs to have a joint placed in the straight run where it passes above the fuel tank, as it's impossible to pre shape the pipe to pattern and fit in one piece.

Provided the job is neat and it is fluid tight, it doesn't matter if there is an extra joint in the pipe, the MOT man is unlikely to criticise a well routed well made pipe.

Brian
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Old 3rd May 2020, 10:18   #23
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Brian- those pipes are lovely.

I don't think I'm going to post a picture of mine now
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Old 3rd May 2020, 13:04   #24
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Brian- those pipes are lovely.

I don't think I'm going to post a picture of mine now
I'm a bit of a "stickler" ( Naughty-Word filter edited) when it comes to making brake pipes Colin, as long as yours don't include "cooling coils" and are secure they will be fine

Brian
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Old 12th May 2020, 08:00   #25
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Time to fit the new belt, and I'm finding that it won't sit over the teeth of both cam gears at the same time.
Locking tool went in place before the old belt came off, and hasn't been removed, but it looks as if the cams have shifted very slightly relative to each other? Also feels much too loose on the driven side (towards front of the).
I haven't done this before, but it looks as if I need to removed the locking tool and tweak the cam gear to both tighten the driven side and let the belt sit home properly. Can that be possible??
Any tips gratefully received.
Good to see that you have got all bits properly in place. Just have to mention that the camshaft locking tool fits best in the garbage.... Is easier to route the belt around and manipulate the sprockets with a spanner to get the belt on. The most important thing is that all the marks line up after assembly and after turning the engine several revolutions. If this is OK and the tensioner is correct setup and tightened, you are good to go! I have never used the camshaft locking tool myself, never missed it either. Using the starter to undo the pulley bolt is a known trick. On the 1.8NASP engine you can remove the starter and fit a 1/2" extension bar in a hole in the casting that will fit in a groove on the backside of the flywheel to lock it off for undo/tightening the bolt.
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Old 12th May 2020, 22:25   #26
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Good lessons learned.
The locking tool stayed in until I began fitting the belt. Then removed it to tweak the cams. With the locking tool in the belt just didn't fit!
It is though quite satisfying when, after you've rotated the engine a couple of times by hand, the locking tool just pops right in because your timing is spot-on!
TF due in 3 years, by which time I'll have forgotten everything.
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Old 13th May 2020, 08:00   #27
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I find that the genuine. MGR locking tool is quite poor but the Draper variant better. It is possible to fit the tool in 3 places, correctly, slightly high or slightly low. If it isn’t correct the tool fits but is tight. As long as the tool is slack and moves about then all is good.
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