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Old 29th November 2020, 11:46   #21
WillyHeckaslike
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I've always been sceptical of the reason behind the number of reported early failures of the clutch slave cylinder. The clutch on my Rover 25 went pop at a little over 55,000 miles, I did not replace it myself but I gather that the cause of the failure was the disintegration of the release bearing. But the guide sleeve was also damaged and needed replacing too and I do wonder if this began to fail first leading to excess force required to operate the clutch with the resulting damage to the release bearing. The car with hindsight came to me with the clutch failing but I did not know until after it was replaced. I thought the mechanic had done something wrong because after replacement the pedal was so light that it went straight to the floor without no resistance, or so it seemed to me in comparison to what I was previously used to when driving the car. It took me a few days to get used to it before it began to dawn on me that it was how it should be and what had been going on before clutch replacement.

I think that in my case the root cause of the failure was lubrication failure of the guide sleeve possibly compounded by excessive clutch dust in the bell housing, clutch dust apparently being a known problem with Rover 25 according to the mechanic who did the job. My Rover 25 does not have an hydraulic clutch system, but if it did my money would be on the slave cylinder seal failing because of the excessive force needed to operate the clutch when the release bearing begins to bind on the guide sleeve due to lubrication failure.
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Old 29th November 2020, 15:34   #22
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Ah, the good old Tazu debate.
We have good facts and figures we've collated to try and work out patterns and causes - the Master Cylinder (sold by XPart, but made by Tazu) seems to be very reliable overall and the copper pipe is fine as long as it's routed carefully.

The Slave Cylinder is where we've had issues, not helped by the extra noise the copper pipework fitted transmits (when used with a Metal Slave this is quite a lot worse) - there's a very fine line between a noisy bearing that's on the way out, and this extra noise transmitted once the rather attenuating plastic pipework is in the bin.

We'd love to have a solution to these, but the overall design seems to be a constraint we don't think we'll be able to work past - it's rather fundamentally flawed in terms of the seal / bearing design, and to be honest while we're absolutely confident in the quality of the Rear Upper Arms, redesigning a Slave Cylinder that includes a bearing is probably well above our skill level.

The OEM-Q Slave Cylinder we sell (we've been using this supplier for a couple of years now) seems to do the trick, but as with any Slave Cylinder for our cars they're not perfect and we do still have the odd failure reported to us.
Alas, that's just something we feel we'll have to live with - especially given the LUK item, Borg & Beck part and every other we've tried hasn't had a perfect record.

A massive shame for our cars, but in my eyes it's just one of those foibles we're stuck with.

On the bright side, we've still got buckets and buckets of the original AP Master Cylinder at around half the cost of the Tazu - these last like the originals, so should be good for 5+ years even with regular use:
https://www.dmgrs.co.uk/products/gen...04274fdc&_ss=r
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Old 2nd December 2020, 09:58   #23
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My clutch pedal has hit the floor this morning after the clutch was replaced a few months ago. Dipping the reservoir with my finger, it is dry. I suspect the brand new LUK slave has sprung a leak.

The clutch is the one common issue I have had to contend with over 6 years of ownership.
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Old 2nd December 2020, 15:42   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DMGRS View Post
Big news day - we've had an engineering sample of our revised Rear Upper Arms (RGG104962 / RGG104972) fitted to a car today, and they're absolutely spot on.

We've intentionally been keeping a bit of a lid on this until we had confirmation they were as good as we'd hoped - we can finally reveal a bit more about these, and how they'll be 'the best thing sliced bread' when it comes to this troublesome part.

In the end we had to have our own tooling made for these at huge cost - meaning these will be exclusive to us and we'll be in control to fine-tune things as time goes on.
The main differences between these and the parts already out there is improved drainage and a full inside-and-out coating - meaning water will drain away more quickly, they'll be less prone to filling with mud and should last many, many years.


Pre-orders will open on the 14th December and pricing will also be confirmed on this date - let's just say it'll be incredibly competitive and exactly what our cars need to keep serving us well.
Delivery is expected in January / February; we'll keep this post updated with any ETA changes.

You can view the listing for them here, we'll update both the listing and this post with more information as time goes on: Coming Soon - Rear Upper Arms (OEM-Q)

In the mean time, a couple of sneaky pictures:



And the Six Million Dollar Question is: are they made in good old Blighty? I assume not otherwise I would expect Union Jack's plastered everywhere!
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Old 14th December 2020, 12:07   #25
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And the Six Million Dollar Question is: are they made in good old Blighty? I assume not otherwise I would expect Union Jack's plastered everywhere!
Unfortunately not - we did 'farm out' the work for quotes in the UK but most firms were either uninterested or too busy.
The good news is the manufacturer of these is a large OE supplier for many brands - so they're subject to the same quality control and tolerances as original parts made by the same company.

We've got a set being fitted and assessed in the UK today by a specialist - with any luck this will be another 'glowing' review such as we've had from the last person to have a look at them.
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Old 14th December 2020, 12:14   #26
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Right, an update!

A change from our previous posts is the metal thickness - we've been in talks with the OE supplier manufacturing these for us and agreed we can marginally increase the thickness without raising concerns elsewhere.
It's not a huge difference - the arm will weigh around 300-400g more than the original - but every little helps as they say.

We're expecting a full review from an MG Rover specialist who is fitting our engineering sample set today - we've already had them test-fitted elsewhere and received glowing reviews, however another can't hurt.

The big update is that pricing has been confirmed, and can be viewed here: https://www.dmgrs.co.uk/products/com...4962-rgg104972

Club discount will of course be available as usual, and with the already-competitive pricing these will hopefully help keep our fine cars on the road.
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Old 14th December 2020, 13:52   #27
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seems a very good price for a pair of upper arms, well done

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Old 14th December 2020, 23:29   #28
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Excellent work chaps, very well done on sorting this, I'm sure everyone in the club appreciates all your efforts
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Old 15th December 2020, 01:07   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DMGRS View Post
Unfortunately not - we did 'farm out' the work for quotes in the UK but most firms were either uninterested or too busy.
The good news is the manufacturer of these is a large OE supplier for many brands - so they're subject to the same quality control and tolerances as original parts made by the same company.

Quote:
We've got a set being fitted and assessed in the UK today by a specialist - with any luck this will be another 'glowing' review such as we've had from the last person to have a look at them.
Quote:
Quote from your sales page.
These are currently being test-fitted to a car in the UK for a full peer review - they've already been test fitted to a vehicle at the production site, but we couldn't resist having an 'engineering sample' given a look-over by a UK MG Rover specialist.


Would it not be better if the gap marked out with yellow dots and arrows were welded across completely not just a spot weld ?
1




Do we know who the UK MG Rover Specialist is, and what test are they carrying out please, and under what circumstances etc.
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Last edited by Arctic; 15th December 2020 at 01:16.. Reason: Photo Editing
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Old 15th December 2020, 01:24   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Arctic View Post
Would it not be better if the gap marked out with yellow dots and arrows were welded across completely not just a spot weld ?
1




Do we know who the UK MG Rover Specialist is, and what test are they carrying out please, and under what circumstances etc.
Well I haven't had to buy in a packet of Mr Kipling jam tarts, so it's not me Steve

In answer to your first question, I would say yes.

I certainly have done so on every arm I've fitted to any of my cars, but then again every (Indian) arm I've fitted has required the rose joint yolk pulled into shape, which meant the tack weld had to be removed.

From the pictures these look to be a much better prospect than reworking the Indian ones, however I've yet to see one in the flesh.


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