Uprated Oil Rail?

[planenut]

I am fitting a new head gasket in my 1.8 turbo so other ancillary items are being replaced.
The oil rail gets several mentions especially using the uprated version. I note that a good percentage of "advisors" don't think it necessary. How can one tell if the existing one is uprated or not, once a sump is removed? I don't particularly want to buy a new one if it's already done, it is not a low priced item.

[beinet1]

You will easily spot an uprated one once the sump is removed. I guess these will be pictures of the two types all around if you google it - edit: here--> https://www.mg-rover.org/threads/rov...l-rail.846266/

For the piece of mind, replace it together with 10,9 head bolts.

It has been said that the uprated oil rail was specific designed for the Freelander 1 application as excessive torque was transferred through the block casing the way the engine was mounted in that car, preventing "twisting" of the engine block. I have no idea if this is true or not

[T-Cut]

The strengthened oil rail was specifically introduced to complement the new MLS gasket. Together with stronger head bolts, they form part of MGR's 'ultimate cure' for the 1.8's HG issues. If your failed gasket isn't MLS, then it's highly unlikely to have the later rail. However, not all MLS gaskets have been fitted with the new rail, so you'll only have a dilemma if you have a failed MLS gasket. The problem is some MLS gaskets appear not to have been fitted very well and failures are reported now and then. Whether that's because of the omission of the new rail I don't know. It's my conclusion that the latest elastomer by Payen (or the Payen equivalent from DMGRS) is very reliable as a direct swap without going into oil rail and bolts upgrades. That seems to be a very popular route and one I've just followed with my turbo.

EDIT: I should have said Xpart's ultimate cure. MGR were long gone of course.
TC

[drewbie]

At the risk of tempting fate.
I fitted the MLS gasket back in 2008, just as a precaution against head gasket failure, I didn't fit the uprated oil rail and my liners were flush, and to date have had no problem.

[planenut]

Thank you all for your input.

I am picking up the replacement cylinder head tomorrow and will use my time whilst on the transport to finally decide.

(Also I will calibrate my torque wrench before I carry out installation)

[beinet1]

Originally Posted by planenut

Thank you all for your input.

I am picking up the replacement cylinder head tomorrow and will use my time whilst on the transport to finally decide.

(Also I will calibrate my torque wrench before I carry out installation)

If your torque wrench are giving 18 or 22Nm is not that critical in this case. The most important thing is that you go over the bolts several times with 20Nm before proceeding with the 180+180deg sequence as the bolts you tightened in the first place will loose its clamping force when continue to tighten the other ones. This is due to the compression of the gasket/sandwich assembly during tightening. My experience is that you need to take the 20Nm about 3 rounds before all bolts are set.

[planenut]

Originally Posted by beinet1

If your torque wrench are giving 18 or 22Nm is not that critical in this case. The most important thing is that you go over the bolts several times with 20Nm before proceeding with the 180+180deg sequence as the bolts you tightened in the first place will loose its clamping force when continue to tighten the other ones. This is due to the compression of the gasket/sandwich assembly during tightening. My experience is that you need to take the 20Nm about 3 rounds before all bolts are set.

Good idea, thank you.