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Old 1st December 2020, 18:39   #21
AndyN01
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SSounds to me some people think that they have to almost pull the handbrake through the floor. I have cringed some times when listening to the person next to me in the car next to me at the lights, or Asda car park

Be happy that there's a handbrake - even if it's being pulled off the floorpan . From the Passat, if it's electric when it doesn't go "bzzzzzz" it's about £500 plus labour plus diagnostics to dial it in. .
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Old 1st December 2020, 18:57   #22
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I suppose it's like so many other things, you use it without thinking. I only ever set the handbrake after stopping and then never use my thumb. Just three fingers to lift it four clicks. Although with an auto in 'P'.....
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Old 1st December 2020, 20:08   #23
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Be happy that there's a handbrake - even if it's being pulled off the floorpan . From the Passat, if it's electric when it doesn't go "bzzzzzz" it's about £500 plus labour plus diagnostics to dial it in. .
Sounds a tad expensive. Glad ours on the Rover/ZT is manual. You can buy a whole Rover for that amount. The diesel is in the garage, as is my friends, just in gear, no handbrake applied.As Wraymond say’s, no need for the handbrake if it’s an auto.. when I apply my handbrake, button and lift. No ratcheting noise.
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Old 1st December 2020, 20:17   #24
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I know it----I just know it--I'm really going to get some flack over my opinion but here goes.

Lots of learned gentlemen have been applying considerable effort and skill to the WRONG problem. They have all been trying to shut the stable door AFTER the horse has bolted.

The basic requirement is to produce FRICTION between the drum material and the brake shoes. All of these laudable efforts by the forums most skilled members have been towards repairing the damage caused by the lack of friction at the drum. As the friction becomes less the effort to make the brakes work requires more and more input of power at the brake lever.

Everybody has lost sight of this necessary friction in the efforts to design something that even King Kong could not damage.--------Laudable effort as stated but unfortunately misplaced.

Even if I apply my handbrake on the move, with less force than is necessary to do mechanical damage, both back wheels lock. YES the wheels stop turning.






I am now about to run for cover.---

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Old 1st December 2020, 20:33   #25
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I know it----I just know it--I'm really going to get some flack over my opinion but here goes.

Lots of learned gentlemen have been applying considerable effort and skill to the WRONG problem. They have all been trying to shut the stable door AFTER the horse has bolted.

The basic requirement is to produce FRICTION between the drum material and the brake shoes. All of these laudable efforts by the forums most skilled members have been towards repairing the damage caused by the lack of friction at the drum. As the friction becomes less the effort to make the brakes work requires more and more input of power at the brake lever.

Everybody has lost sight of this necessary friction in the efforts to design something that even King Kong could not damage.--------Laudable effort as stated but unfortunately misplaced.

Even if I apply my handbrake on the move, with less force than is necessary to do mechanical damage, both back wheels lock. YES the wheels stop turning.






I am now about to run for cover.---
I always adjust my handbrake at the drums first, the front part isn't a big deal, I adjust the shoes on any car first so that they're spot on in the drum. The compensator issue is never about how good my handbrake is, I just think it's a poor design that needs to still be worked on.
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Old 1st December 2020, 20:58   #26
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Be happy that there's a handbrake - even if it's being pulled off the floorpan . From the Passat, if it's electric when it doesn't go "bzzzzzz" it's about £500 plus labour plus diagnostics to dial it in. .
That is cheap, a customer had problems with the electric handbrake on a Land Rover and by the time he had it back the bill was well over £1k. The dealer reckoned that have had a lot of problems and keep the parts in stock.
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Old 2nd December 2020, 10:21   #27
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Originally Posted by Saga Lout View Post
I always adjust my handbrake at the drums first, the front part isn't a big deal, I adjust the shoes on any car first so that they're spot on in the drum. The compensator issue is never about how good my handbrake is,
Quote:
I just think it's a poor design that needs to still be worked on.
We did find this is a good solution even if it's more work to install.

1

2

3

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Old 2nd December 2020, 16:59   #28
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We did find this is a good solution even if it's more work to install.


https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/for...d.php?t=220121
....... and havent looked back since, havent needed to
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Old 2nd December 2020, 20:43   #29
COLVERT
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Originally Posted by Saga Lout View Post
I always adjust my handbrake at the drums first, the front part isn't a big deal, I adjust the shoes on any car first so that they're spot on in the drum. The compensator issue is never about how good my handbrake is, I just think it's a poor design that needs to still be worked on.
I can see how this problem arose during development.

They never had a rusted rear drum surface.

Clean and dry the brake works well. With rust it doesn't.

Just can't stop those forum members barking up the wrong tree.------Lateral thinking in short supply.---
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