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6th February 2021, 07:58 | #11 | |
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If you still have the original ECU, I would refit it until you can accurately diagnose any underlying issues with the car. The ITP as you suspect it may be an issue, chuck a couple of gallons in the car to negate any problems of fuel starvation at the quarter tank mark. One of the problems if you are attempting to accurately pinpoint a problem is not taking a methodical approach, so make a list do one thing at a time and cross off the list as you go. Best of luck Brian |
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7th February 2021, 09:06 | #12 |
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Quick update,
I tried to go to work in it yesterday, Ran fine for the first mile then the revs dropped to tick over only, But tick over is higher than normal at around 1,200rpm, Managed to limp it home on One other thing l noticed is it does smell very much of carbon/exhaust even when not running ? Last edited by Dibdob69; 7th February 2021 at 10:25.. |
7th February 2021, 12:59 | #13 | |
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[QUOTE]
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If you still have your original ECU then put that on and see it it drives as it should, if it does then you found the problem ECU Mafless map. Why have another ECU when you could of just had the original ECU mapped ? if you original ECU works then ask them for a refund and go somewhere else if you want a remap, maybe have the 160 upgrade from here on the club.
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Arctic Givology Learn to Give Everything is Achievable ad altiora tendo. Check out our Nano meet dates http://www.midlandsnanomeets.co.uk/ http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/index.php?thepage=howto " You do the work , we supply the expertise " Last edited by Arctic; 7th February 2021 at 13:03.. |
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7th February 2021, 19:01 | #14 | |
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It may well be unconnected, but I was less than impressed at the crudity of what had been done to increase power in the case of the car I was working on yesterday The most likely culprit, assuming you change back to the standard ECM and there is no difference is this item......LINK and best of all it's an easy thing to fit Best of luck Brian |
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8th February 2021, 10:46 | #15 | |
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[QUOTE=Arctic;2863965]
Quote:
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8th February 2021, 11:26 | #16 |
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Might be a poor electrical problem that was made good for a short while when you were moving things about.
Gone back to be a poor connection again.-- If the ECU doesn't receive all the signals it needs then it can cut down the revs to prevent potential engine damage. Make sure all sensor connections are good. |
8th February 2021, 14:05 | #17 | |
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9th February 2021, 13:59 | #18 |
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Hi Mark.
I have answered you PM and advised you to go to one of the guru, also i had a rover with the pedal problem, change the pedal same problem limp mode, now you have the original ECU in the car try unplugging the MAF. That's what we did with the one we had the problem with it cured it, so it turned out to be the MAF at least it will cost you nowt to unplug the MAF Get a full refund from you know who hopefully he will give you hes banned on here.
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Arctic Givology Learn to Give Everything is Achievable ad altiora tendo. Check out our Nano meet dates http://www.midlandsnanomeets.co.uk/ http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/index.php?thepage=howto " You do the work , we supply the expertise " |
9th February 2021, 18:24 | #19 | |
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The owner of the car had a "MAFless" remap carried out at the same time that he had a replacement key made. When you look at the live data with the MAF plugged in the figures look exactly the same as a standard ECM, and with the MAF unplugged the live data shows the lack if IAT sensor and the ECM reverting to it's default settings. Originally the car from which this ECM originated was a 116PS variant, the replacement ECM was coded as a 131PS version after changing the ZCS coding to suit, and the owner was quite impressed with the performance, something I'm not blown away by in regards to the one which I removed.... Getting back to the point of failed MAF sensors, there is a specific mode in the case of an automatic car, in which a failed MAF has a direct affect upon the demand pedal pot2 which shows at idle .760 volts, as opposed to around .380 volts, and the car will not rev whatsoever. Unplugging the MAF restores normal operation to the throttle demand pedal. Brian |
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14th February 2021, 13:17 | #20 |
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After waiting a week for the weather to warm up a little l think I've found the problem
After reading an old post stating "a CDT will start with rail sensor disconnected (but won't rev)" I disconnected the sensor, inspected the wiring and found this (see picture) an exposed wire. Fixed it and the car seems to be running fine now, Fingers crossed |
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