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12th March 2015, 01:11 | #1 |
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Oil Change Diesel R75 MGZT
This is a pictorial how to on how I do an oil change on the R75 MGZT diesel.
Hopefully this will help new members and owners if they decide to do there own oil change at some time. My first bit of advise is get all your tools and items you will need together and allocate your self a day for the oil change to take place. On the day of the oil change drive the car for at least 5 miles this will get the oil hot and help with draining the old oil out, once you return from the drive either jack the car up onto axle stands or drive onto ramps if you have some. Oil Filter bargain https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Rover-75-...cAAOxy4dNS-5Kk You can now remove the under tray ready for when you drain the oil Fig 1/2/3/4 (a) 1a 2a 3a 4a Now the under tray has been removed turn your attention to removing the engine cover, some may leave it in place but as I was changing all the filters I removed the engine cover, in my opinion it helps as you have a little bit more room, tools need are 8mm socket. Fig 1/2/3 1 (NOTE ) They should all be the same size unless someone as lost one and replaced it with a longer one, best to put either the same length or smaller bolt to top left of cover. 16mm would be best 20mm are fitted or should be, do not over tighten when re-fiting, (TOP LEFT BOLT) as it can puncture the cam cover 2 3 With all three engine cover bolts removed you can lift the engine cover off putting it safe to one side with the bolts. Fig 4/5/6 4 5 6 The next job is to loosen not remover yet the oil filter top you will need a 36mm shallow socket Fig 7/8 7 8 Below the oil filter is the alternator this must be covered up so no oil drips onto it as damaged can occur thus causing you to change it should damage occur. Fig 9 9 Use some good rags, cloths to cover the alternator up as here below Fig 10 10 With the rags in place you can now loosen the oil filter top a little Fig 11/12 11 12 Now it is time to get under the car and drain the oil which should have settled nicely in the sump, the sump is situated at a great angle so the oil will drain freely you will need a 15mm socket and 15mm ratchet spanner to remove the sump bolt. Fig 13/14 13 14 Once you have cracked the bolt you can use the 15mm ratchet spanner it gives you more control over the bolt again in my opinion. Fig 15 15 Place your oil catcher or bucket which ever you are using under the sump area ready to catch the oil once you remove the sump bolt. Fig 16 16 With the sump bolts loosened you can slowly remove it always keeping pressure on it so oil does not yet pour from the sump. Fig 17/18 17 18 As you can see from this photo I am still keeping pressure on the bolt to stop the oil from pouring out, i am now ready to remove the bolt quickly so the oil will drain straight into the oil container below.Fig 19 19 With the bolt removed fast the oil pours out into the container and I have my hands out of the way. Fig 20/21 20 21 Leave the oil draining for a while, you can now think about removing the oil filter Fig 22 22 After you have had a coffee or cup of tea giving time for the oil to drain from the oil filter pot, you are ready to carry on with the oil change, removing the oil filter top, (quick little tip tighten up the oil filter top more than you would normally) then re-loosen this will become apparent later. Undo and release the top slowly making sure you have a small container ready to drop the top into, an old windscreen washer container cut in half is good Fig 23/24 23 24 Once loosened enough you can remove with your hand Fig 25 25 Drop it into the container, as you can see when I re-tightened the oil filter top earlier it as crushed the oil filter helping it stay in place when I remove the top, you don't have to do this as you can remove it with your fingers after the top as been removed if you so wish. Fig 26 26 Now the filter as been removed you can see I split a little of the oil but the rag as done it's job,there is still some oil in the pot I like to remove this also Fig 27 27 I need to get this oil out of the pot as I want it to be clean inside as best it can before adding the new filter Fig 28 28 To do this you can use some more old rags to soak up the oil left over in the pot Fig 29 29 pot cleaned out good enough I think Fig 30 30 With your new filter you will have some new O-rings some come with three O-rings some with just the large one as in this case below, dis-regard the copper washer it is not used on the R75 diesel but they all have them in the box they are to small? Fig 31 31 The large O-ring needs to be changed also the small ones if you have them in you filter box Fig 32 32 First remove the old filter Fig 33 33 Now you can remove the old O-ring use an hook tool if you have one if not a small thin screwdriver will do Fig 34 34 Dispose of the O-ring safely as you will be fitting the new one shown with the new filter here Fig 35 35 Add the new O-ring to the filter top note it fits in the second groove Fig 36 36 The new filter can now be fitted into the oil chamber Fig 37/38 37 38 Followed by the filter top making sure you keep it centre lower it down and do it up hand tight Fig 39/40 39 40 Finally tighten it up with the socket (Nm25 = 18lbf ft) do not over tighten as you will crush the filter inside damaging it Fig 41 41 Remove the rags and make sure all is clean and dry Fig 42 42 Time to make another coffee while that cools you can pop back under the car wipe any dripping oil, then re-fit the sump bolt using a new one if you have one if not the old one should be ok. Fig 43 43 Finger tight sump bolt Fig 44 44 Tighten the sump bolt up with the ratchet spanner 15mm Fig 45 45 Re-fit the under tray drop the car off the axle stands or ramps if you used ramps push it off slow, get someone to help if you can, if not you could add the 5ltrs of oil first then drive it off you will then need to wait for the oil to drain back down before adding anymore. You can now add you new oil use a funnel it is even better if you can get someone to hold the funnel for you, this will avoid spillage Fig 46 46 Add a full 5ltrs at first Fig 47 47 (NOTE ) They should all be the same size unless someone as lost one and replaced it with a longer one, best to put either the same length or smaller bolt to top left of cover. 16mm would be best 20mm are fitted or should be, do not over tighten when re-fiting, (TOP LEFT BOLT) as it can puncture the cam cover. While the oil makes it's way down to the sump re-fit the engine cover 8mm socket Fig 48 48 Add one more ltr then start the car so the oil fills the oil filter pot, let the oil drain down again add another 400ml take car for a quick drive couple of miles return let the engine tick over for about 5 minutes then turn the engine off, let oil settle again for about 15 minutes recheck level top up to max if you need to good luck Arctic
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Arctic Givology Learn to Give Everything is Achievable ad altiora tendo. Check out our Nano meet dates http://www.midlandsnanomeets.co.uk/ http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/index.php?thepage=howto " You do the work , we supply the expertise " Last edited by Arctic; 9th May 2018 at 10:10.. Reason: Photo editing |
12th March 2015, 06:24 | #2 |
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Rover 75CDT, Jaguar XF-S 3.0V6, V'xhall Omega V6 Estate, Twintop 1.8VVT, Astra Estate and Corsa 1.2 Join Date: Dec 2007
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An excellent how-to Steve.
It's worth mentioning the importance of noting the different lengths of the engine cover bolts when removing and making sure that they are refitted in their correct locations. Maninder. |
12th March 2015, 09:25 | #3 | |
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Quote:
They should all be the same size unless someone as lost one and replaced it with a longer one, but you are correct, best to put either the same length or smaller bolts to top left of cover. 16mm would be best 20mm are fitted or should be.
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Arctic Givology Learn to Give Everything is Achievable ad altiora tendo. Check out our Nano meet dates http://www.midlandsnanomeets.co.uk/ http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/index.php?thepage=howto " You do the work , we supply the expertise " |
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12th March 2015, 09:39 | #4 |
Posted a thing or two
MG ZT 2.0 CDTi 135+ Join Date: Jan 2014
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Or save yourself a lot of hassle and use a Pela pump.
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12th March 2015, 09:49 | #5 |
Why? ...
MG ZT+ Cdti Auto saloon. Join Date: Jul 2014
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Excellent how to for those that think its a hard or difficult job.
I also change my filter every 2,500 miles, its so easy to get to and very cheap to buy, it also keeps the oil very clean even on a diesel, not necessary but I do it. |
12th March 2015, 09:49 | #6 |
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Rover 75 Saloon Connoisseur cdti Join Date: Jun 2014
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oil change
nice one Steve, will file this info with the rest cheers.
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12th March 2015, 10:02 | #7 |
Gets stuck in
Jaguar 3 litre sport. (Lee) Rover 75 Connoisseur T4'd (Roger) Rover 75 Connoisseur SE (Gaynor) Join Date: Oct 2007
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Arctic, "16mm would be best 20mm are fitted or should be". I fitted tap washers to all my bolts as they were all the same length, it still tightens nice and snug and now there's no chance of them piercing through. You never know who did the servicing for the previous owner, I only trust myself.
Regards DaDragon |
12th March 2015, 10:15 | #8 |
Posted a thing or two
Rover 75 2.0 cdi Join Date: Mar 2011
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Nice one , well done that man
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12th March 2015, 13:57 | #9 |
This is my second home
R75 Saloon. Join Date: Feb 2009
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Filters gradually become More efficient as they age and the holes in the filter medium slowly get Smaller.---
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12th March 2015, 19:29 | #10 |
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75 M47R oil change
I am about to attempt my first oil change since acquiring my car last Sept I have covered 6k Miles and the oil is as black as the Ace of spades! (I do mostly motorway mileage and rarely exceed 2k RPM ( And cruise happily at 70 MPH! my car has FSH from new and as far as I can see all has been done properly In The past.
I have collected all that I need : Oil :Mobil 10/40, Slick 50 (used it in 17 cars over 30 years!), Oil Filter, 36 mm low profile socket, fuel filter, air filter, a sealy vac extractor , this is because like so many other members I would prefer to do it this way as I do not want to have to invest in a new trolley jack or heavy duty axle stands and have to grovel around trying to remove the engine tray. I have watched the you tube video of the american Topsider in use and I recommend every member that does not have access to a proper lift or pit to view this as This method just looks the buisiness , if the topsider was available in this country I would have surely bought one but imported from the US it would cost nearly £100. Last edited by Busboy; 12th March 2015 at 19:45.. Reason: spelling |
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