Starting woes

Stu67 · 5th April 2018, 08:57

Right, apologies for the long post and various questions, but it may help prevent me stumbling down a blind alley.

I’ve got a 2002 2.5 v6 auto Connie 60k and am having occasional starting problems, I posted a while back and after checking the obvious am back here as the problem persists.

Problem is when key turned lights all come on dash but nothing happens and I mean nothing, no clicking, no cranking. Try it a few times and it goes eventually. I’ve changed the battery which is now new, checked the starter connections and all are clean and ok.

In my mind it points down a couple of avenues that I need more info on. The first is that it could still be an odd fault with the starter solenoid, has any one ever had a problem with the solenoid where it doesn’t even click?

The lights don’t dim on the dash as the key is in crank position so this makes me think that it is some type of electrical “hold off” or inhibitor for the auto gearbox that is preventing starting. So a couple of questions on this as I’ve seen various things mentioned. There is a gear selector inhibitor that sits on top of the gearbox with loom that I’ve seen advertised, but on reading this seem more to do with the quality of the gear changes? Could this also be causing the issue (generally the gearbox is fine in operation)

Rimmer bros also advertise an inhibitor switch that looks to be no more than a brass plunger switch. I presume this must be located on the gear change assembly somewhere? And basically tells the gearbox that “Park” is selected and it’s safe to start. This part is about £30.

I’ve also read that there is a “park” Ecu??

So I’m all a bit confused as to how the whole thing works and how to go about fixing this random issue. It would almost be better if the car didn’t start at all as you could go through each piece in turn.

Yours exasperated,

Stu

Lord of Hog · 5th April 2018, 09:02

I haven't had this happen on a Rover but something similar did happen on my FTO a while back. The problem was a stretched auto selector cable. On the Mitsubishi you just flip off the button on top of the selector knob and turn a nut. So I expect on the Rover you need to dismantle most of the interior.

stevestrat · 5th April 2018, 09:10

Worn contacts in the starter solenoid is not uncommon. You can get a refurb kit, automatic or manual.

Stu67 · 5th April 2018, 09:56

Thanks Steve I’ve ordered a set to overhaul the solenoid, it can’t do any harm, however I’m still doubtful if it is the root cause, although hopefully it will be another thing eliminated. I did clean all the connections on the starter the other weekend. I’ve plenty of old cars and whenever there is a starter problem the lights on the dash normally at least “dim” with a key in the start position.

SD1too · 5th April 2018, 10:00

Stu, have you checked for +12v on the solenoid supply wire when the ignition key is turned to 'start'? That will tell you whether the fault lies with the strarter motor assembly or elsewhere.

As the fault is "occasional" it is very likely to be the starter solenoid contacts. I had the same symptoms a couple of summers ago.

Simon

neilll · 5th April 2018, 10:11

Hi Stu,
Is yours an auto? I was having a similar problem with my auto but it cured itself before I could do anything about it! Try starting in N or push the stick forward in P when you start it. I am led to believe there is a little bit of adjustment on the cable on the g/box end, but I have not had to do that yet.
Neil

Stu67 · 5th April 2018, 10:12

Thanks Simon when I get the solenoid repair parts through i’ll Put a test meter on it. It’s the fact that it’s so random however that makes it an issue.

Crumbs I sound a half empty type of person and I’m not

it’s all this complicated electrickery, think I’ll stick to my old Austin 1100 it’s easier to fathom out.

Stu67 · 5th April 2018, 10:15

Quote:

Originally Posted by neilll

Hi Stu,
Is yours an auto? I was having a similar problem with my auto but it cured itself before I could do anything about it! Try starting in N or push the stick forward in P when you start it. I am led to believe there is a little bit of adjustment on the cable on the g/box end, but I have not had to do that yet.
Neil

Yep auto, it’s damn annoying to be honest. As said it would be simpler if it was just broken and at least that way you could trace the issue.

SD1too · 5th April 2018, 10:24

Quote:

Originally Posted by Stu67

It’s the fact that it’s so random however that makes it an issue.

Mine was the same. I would sometimes get silence when trying to start the engine. On the second attempt the starter motor would work normally, then it would be fine for the rest of the day. Of course eventually the fault will become permanent so take care that you don't become stranded!

Quote:

.. think I’ll stick to my old Austin 1100 it’s easier to fathom out.

There aren't may of those left. I've maintained and repaired several A series engines in my time too!

Simon

5th April 2018, 08:57	#1
Stu67 Regular poster Rover 75 Saloon Join Date: Dec 2014 Location: Welwyn Garden City Posts: 75 Thanks: 8 Thanked 10 Times in 7 Posts	Starting woes Right, apologies for the long post and various questions, but it may help prevent me stumbling down a blind alley. I’ve got a 2002 2.5 v6 auto Connie 60k and am having occasional starting problems, I posted a while back and after checking the obvious am back here as the problem persists. Problem is when key turned lights all come on dash but nothing happens and I mean nothing, no clicking, no cranking. Try it a few times and it goes eventually. I’ve changed the battery which is now new, checked the starter connections and all are clean and ok. In my mind it points down a couple of avenues that I need more info on. The first is that it could still be an odd fault with the starter solenoid, has any one ever had a problem with the solenoid where it doesn’t even click? The lights don’t dim on the dash as the key is in crank position so this makes me think that it is some type of electrical “hold off” or inhibitor for the auto gearbox that is preventing starting. So a couple of questions on this as I’ve seen various things mentioned. There is a gear selector inhibitor that sits on top of the gearbox with loom that I’ve seen advertised, but on reading this seem more to do with the quality of the gear changes? Could this also be causing the issue (generally the gearbox is fine in operation) Rimmer bros also advertise an inhibitor switch that looks to be no more than a brass plunger switch. I presume this must be located on the gear change assembly somewhere? And basically tells the gearbox that “Park” is selected and it’s safe to start. This part is about £30. I’ve also read that there is a “park” Ecu?? So I’m all a bit confused as to how the whole thing works and how to go about fixing this random issue. It would almost be better if the car didn’t start at all as you could go through each piece in turn. Yours exasperated, Stu

5th April 2018, 09:02	#2
Lord of Hog Gets stuck in Rover 75 2.5 V6 in Wedgwood Blue Join Date: Dec 2015 Location: Felbridge, East Grinstead Posts: 982 Thanks: 250 Thanked 294 Times in 206 Posts	I haven't had this happen on a Rover but something similar did happen on my FTO a while back. The problem was a stretched auto selector cable. On the Mitsubishi you just flip off the button on top of the selector knob and turn a nut. So I expect on the Rover you need to dismantle most of the interior. __________________ Conformity is not morality. Consensus is not truth.

5th April 2018, 09:10	#3
stevestrat This is my second home ZT260 #243 (resting) Join Date: May 2010 Location: Prestonpans Posts: 22,473 Thanks: 650 Thanked 4,624 Times in 3,358 Posts	Worn contacts in the starter solenoid is not uncommon. You can get a refurb kit, automatic or manual. __________________ Steve T4 Location Map

5th April 2018, 10:00	#5
SD1too Doesn't do things by halves Rover 75 2.5 Connoisseur Auto (1999) Dealer launch model. Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Former Middlesex Posts: 20,367 Thanks: 1,587 Thanked 3,749 Times in 3,181 Posts	Stu, have you checked for +12v on the solenoid supply wire when the ignition key is turned to 'start'? That will tell you whether the fault lies with the strarter motor assembly or elsewhere. As the fault is "occasional" it is very likely to be the starter solenoid contacts. I had the same symptoms a couple of summers ago. Simon __________________ "Whatever is rightly done, however humble, is noble." Sir Henry Royce. Last edited by SD1too; 5th April 2018 at 10:03..

5th April 2018, 09:56	#4
Stu67 Regular poster Rover 75 Saloon Join Date: Dec 2014 Location: Welwyn Garden City Posts: 75 Thanks: 8 Thanked 10 Times in 7 Posts	Thanks Steve I’ve ordered a set to overhaul the solenoid, it can’t do any harm, however I’m still doubtful if it is the root cause, although hopefully it will be another thing eliminated. I did clean all the connections on the starter the other weekend. I’ve plenty of old cars and whenever there is a starter problem the lights on the dash normally at least “dim” with a key in the start position.

5th April 2018, 10:11	#6
neilll Gets stuck in MG ZT,MG ZT-T Join Date: May 2008 Location: St. Helens Posts: 961 Thanks: 211 Thanked 235 Times in 158 Posts	Hi Stu, Is yours an auto? I was having a similar problem with my auto but it cured itself before I could do anything about it! Try starting in N or push the stick forward in P when you start it. I am led to believe there is a little bit of adjustment on the cable on the g/box end, but I have not had to do that yet. Neil

5th April 2018, 10:12	#7
Stu67 Regular poster Rover 75 Saloon Join Date: Dec 2014 Location: Welwyn Garden City Posts: 75 Thanks: 8 Thanked 10 Times in 7 Posts	Thanks Simon when I get the solenoid repair parts through i’ll Put a test meter on it. It’s the fact that it’s so random however that makes it an issue. Crumbs I sound a half empty type of person and I’m not it’s all this complicated electrickery, think I’ll stick to my old Austin 1100 it’s easier to fathom out.