Rover 75 airbag light yawn

GeoffA · 17th May 2020, 12:53

Hi

I have a prob with my airbag light ( 2004 Rover 75 cdti ). This has been a problem ever since I first bought the car ( had it since new ) and I could not get it fixed initially under warranty as Rover went belly up just before it was due to go in for its first service. Didn't bother with it after that till the matter became necessary to fix for the MOT a few years ago. Was left with a massive bill for a clutch repair though and I wasn't going to spend money on fixing the light problem aswell.

I have done some fixes to it over the years initially involving pulling the connectors apart ( under both seats ) , splashing some WD40 and putting them back together again but I had to go further than that last year ( or was it the year before ? ) Anyway what I did was to redo the connections under the passenger seat with some spade connectors. That was physically difficult for me but it worked . Therefore adopting usual tack of only doing what is necessary I left the driver side as it was because prob gone.

I don't use the car every day. This past few years only say 500 miles a year so it has very low mileage of just under 37,000.

This year after many many many months of satisfactory operation just 10 days before the MOT was due the damn light started coming back on. OMG. So I decided that the problem must be under the drivers seat. So I decided I'd have to do the same fix I had done for the passenger side. I like to do one thing at a time so I had a go at the connector nearest the transmission tunnel . I don't get on very well with soldering but ultimately managed to get the light to go off in time for the MOT . Then just a couple of days after the MOT the light started coming back on . Phew that was close.

So I had another go at the same connector and identified a poor connection which I fixed as best I could. I find it most awkward getting under the seats.

I got to the stage in the garage where I could repeatedly get the light to go off but had only briefly started the car. I was moderately confident that the problem was dealt with though. I was in the process of taking it out for a test drive ( to see if it would hold up over the bumps ). I reversed out of the garage , got out to open my gate came back and the wretched light was on again. WOT DUH . No test drive needed then !!

So I'm not sure what's happening now to be frank. What I did do was leave both battery terminals disconnected over night to err well see if that reset anything. You see I was thinking that it might be the ECU thing that was storing fault stuff and that disconnection might clear them. Doesn't seem like it has though although the light has gone off briefly but come back on again but mostly stays on.

I am writing this as I am waiting for my battery to charge. The car started last evening but for some reason the over night disconnection has failed to maintain the battery charge and all I get is click click click. Batteries have always been a bit of a bugbear. The low usage means they just lose charge to a the point where it won't operate the starter motor. These days I try and charge every few days and especially before I know I will be using it.

So at this precise moment the battery does not have enough charge to operate the starter motor and the airbag light refuses to be a good boy. The battery has been charging for like 2 and half hours now and its not able to operate the starter motor. That in itself is worrying as usually it can take as little as 30 mins so I am thinking hey is my battery conking out right at this moment. This must be the 4th battery I am on now. Or is it the charger ? All lights are on and one would think that it is charging ( or has something broken inside ) .I am getting befuddled.

So I thought let's see if the chaps at the forum can answer some questions cos I am totally fed up right now. I don't want to have to spend £££ on a garage job. The last time my 75 was in the garage was 2005/6 to have my clutch done and I recall that the people who did it ( a Rover specialist ) conned me by putting in a new rear shock absorber and a year later they said that that same shocker was leaking oil ??? and what they had done was splash some oil over it to make it look as though it was leaking. So much for specialists. So my general opinion of garages is not good.

So

Does battery condition affect the airbag light at all in any way?

Does anyone know the ignition switch on procedure one needs to use on a Rover 75 to clear the ecu . Its a very gradual procedure where one pauses for a certain amount of time at each point in the switch on sequence. I did see it once a few years ago and I followed it but can't recall where I saw it . Googled it but all I could see was a procedure which was not the one I had in mind and could have been for other makes. Thought it might have been in the Haynes manual but can't see it there.

Are there any other for sure ways of getting the ecu to clear itself which one can do at home ?

Who would have a T4 in Maidstone area that could tell me where the airbag problem is ?

Would a T4 be able to clear out the ECU ? what's that gonna cost.?

As far as the underseat connections are concerned would it be recommended to solder them together or use spade type connectors ( as I have done so far )- I say this in case its a question of ohms - I am not a massive electrical genius but thought that the extra spade connector that I installed could have tripped some over resistance . For the avoidance of doubt I have not done anything at all to the outer connector under the drivers seat other than pull it apart and put it back and that was a long long time ago.

So glad to hear from any one

vitesse · 17th May 2020, 13:08

All systems are effected by a low voltage. You need to measure the voltage either with a multimeter or the onboard diagnostics (use the search) if you can get the car started. I've found on a number of occasions the battery not to be at fault but rather the starter solenoid (kits on eBay).

There's a free diagnostic programme called Toaf you can use to diagnose your SRS problem (again use the search facility).

Regards

Yorkshire GOC · 17th May 2020, 13:13

Another reason for the warning light to illuminate is a failed side impact sensor and is a common cause of the light staying on , often caused but not always by damp floors / leaks destroying the sensor. It is bolted to a cross member under the passenger seat ( LHS ) - green in colour

Yorkshire GOC · 17th May 2020, 13:16

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/AIRBAG-SI...oAAOSw7eld59jF

This is the sensor

RoverP480 · 17th May 2020, 13:58

You need to get the voltage correct , as advised needs checking with a meter. If the battery is low so much that the starter wont operate you need to leave it on charge for more than a couple of hours , more like 12 to 24 would be a better.

GeoffA · 17th May 2020, 16:10

Hi

Well I wouldn't have believed it - that there was free one about. Very interesting. Will look into it but am thinking Hmm is it going to be a touch too technical for me.Anyway thanks for that.

GeoffA · 17th May 2020, 16:13

Quote:

Originally Posted by Yorkshire GOC

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/AIRBAG-SI...oAAOSw7eld59jF

This is the sensor

Well it could be. It could be anything couldn't it. Personally I would not have thought so as the car sits for most of it's life in a garage. It has not been uncommon for it be garaged for two weeks at time this past several years. Perhaps a little bit less this past few weeks what with the lockdown and the need to go out and get supplies (rather than having them delivered). It does not get wet. I don't run it in the wet. It's basically bone dry. Battery has been on charge for several hours now and no joy. Therefore it's either the charger or the batterythat' faulty. I have just ordered a new battery so that I can get the car started. The charger is very old. It's got Sparkrite on it. It's served me for many years ( 30 odd I expect ) . It's got 4 lights on it which show the battery condition. 3 are lit indicating partial charge only but that's what I normally get when the battery is off a bit and the starter won't get beyond click click click. Usually all 4 lights have to be on for car to get started. When I get the new battery and if it doesn't start then it's thank you lord thank you so much as that's not something I could do myself. If it turns out to be the charger then I will prob come back and see what people recommend I should get.

vitesse · 17th May 2020, 16:23

Please consider that it is the solenoid on the starter rather than the battery, it's happened to me a couple of times. Initially I thought it was the battery despite good voltage as with a fresh, or newly charged battery it always started with the extra juice. Now I've learnt the lesson.

And try Toaf, as you've a newer 75 you'll need the small Autoliv SRS Tool http://toaf.roverki.eu/index.php/en/download-en), a Windows computer running Vista or higher (Win10 works) and a VW type KKL cable from eBay with pins 7 & 8 bridged. Very easy to use, even I manage it

Regards

Yorkshire GOC · 17th May 2020, 16:50

The battery experts on here eg Colvert - will say you need to put the charger on the battery for at least 24 hours - also your very low mileage does lead to battery problems - i know my RAC battery warranty is invalid if i do less than 1000 miles per annum.

As to the airbag impact sensor they do play up even when not subject to moisture - so bear this in mind.

Heddy · 17th May 2020, 17:57

For the airbag light I've used strip connectors, because you know the wires are firmly clamped under the screw. If that fixes it you can do a better, more professional job by soldering, maybe using heat shrink over the joint. For me, (and to my embarrassment) the strip connectors are still there I'm afraid.

17th May 2020, 12:53	#1
GeoffA Newbie Rover 75 Saloon Join Date: Mar 2014 Location: Maidstone Posts: 17 Thanks: 0 Thanked 2 Times in 1 Post	Rover 75 airbag light yawn Hi I have a prob with my airbag light ( 2004 Rover 75 cdti ). This has been a problem ever since I first bought the car ( had it since new ) and I could not get it fixed initially under warranty as Rover went belly up just before it was due to go in for its first service. Didn't bother with it after that till the matter became necessary to fix for the MOT a few years ago. Was left with a massive bill for a clutch repair though and I wasn't going to spend money on fixing the light problem aswell. I have done some fixes to it over the years initially involving pulling the connectors apart ( under both seats ) , splashing some WD40 and putting them back together again but I had to go further than that last year ( or was it the year before ? ) Anyway what I did was to redo the connections under the passenger seat with some spade connectors. That was physically difficult for me but it worked . Therefore adopting usual tack of only doing what is necessary I left the driver side as it was because prob gone. I don't use the car every day. This past few years only say 500 miles a year so it has very low mileage of just under 37,000. This year after many many many months of satisfactory operation just 10 days before the MOT was due the damn light started coming back on. OMG. So I decided that the problem must be under the drivers seat. So I decided I'd have to do the same fix I had done for the passenger side. I like to do one thing at a time so I had a go at the connector nearest the transmission tunnel . I don't get on very well with soldering but ultimately managed to get the light to go off in time for the MOT . Then just a couple of days after the MOT the light started coming back on . Phew that was close. So I had another go at the same connector and identified a poor connection which I fixed as best I could. I find it most awkward getting under the seats. I got to the stage in the garage where I could repeatedly get the light to go off but had only briefly started the car. I was moderately confident that the problem was dealt with though. I was in the process of taking it out for a test drive ( to see if it would hold up over the bumps ). I reversed out of the garage , got out to open my gate came back and the wretched light was on again. WOT DUH . No test drive needed then !! So I'm not sure what's happening now to be frank. What I did do was leave both battery terminals disconnected over night to err well see if that reset anything. You see I was thinking that it might be the ECU thing that was storing fault stuff and that disconnection might clear them. Doesn't seem like it has though although the light has gone off briefly but come back on again but mostly stays on. I am writing this as I am waiting for my battery to charge. The car started last evening but for some reason the over night disconnection has failed to maintain the battery charge and all I get is click click click. Batteries have always been a bit of a bugbear. The low usage means they just lose charge to a the point where it won't operate the starter motor. These days I try and charge every few days and especially before I know I will be using it. So at this precise moment the battery does not have enough charge to operate the starter motor and the airbag light refuses to be a good boy. The battery has been charging for like 2 and half hours now and its not able to operate the starter motor. That in itself is worrying as usually it can take as little as 30 mins so I am thinking hey is my battery conking out right at this moment. This must be the 4th battery I am on now. Or is it the charger ? All lights are on and one would think that it is charging ( or has something broken inside ) .I am getting befuddled. So I thought let's see if the chaps at the forum can answer some questions cos I am totally fed up right now. I don't want to have to spend £££ on a garage job. The last time my 75 was in the garage was 2005/6 to have my clutch done and I recall that the people who did it ( a Rover specialist ) conned me by putting in a new rear shock absorber and a year later they said that that same shocker was leaking oil ??? and what they had done was splash some oil over it to make it look as though it was leaking. So much for specialists. So my general opinion of garages is not good. So Does battery condition affect the airbag light at all in any way? Does anyone know the ignition switch on procedure one needs to use on a Rover 75 to clear the ecu . Its a very gradual procedure where one pauses for a certain amount of time at each point in the switch on sequence. I did see it once a few years ago and I followed it but can't recall where I saw it . Googled it but all I could see was a procedure which was not the one I had in mind and could have been for other makes. Thought it might have been in the Haynes manual but can't see it there. Are there any other for sure ways of getting the ecu to clear itself which one can do at home ? Who would have a T4 in Maidstone area that could tell me where the airbag problem is ? Would a T4 be able to clear out the ECU ? what's that gonna cost.? As far as the underseat connections are concerned would it be recommended to solder them together or use spade type connectors ( as I have done so far )- I say this in case its a question of ohms - I am not a massive electrical genius but thought that the extra spade connector that I installed could have tripped some over resistance . For the avoidance of doubt I have not done anything at all to the outer connector under the drivers seat other than pull it apart and put it back and that was a long long time ago. So glad to hear from any one

17th May 2020, 13:13	#3
Yorkshire GOC I really should get out more....... Rover 75 connoisseur se v6 auto Join Date: May 2014 Location: Hull Posts: 2,066 Thanks: 1,842 Thanked 623 Times in 469 Posts	Another reason for the warning light to illuminate is a failed side impact sensor and is a common cause of the light staying on , often caused but not always by damp floors / leaks destroying the sensor. It is bolted to a cross member under the passenger seat ( LHS ) - green in colour __________________ She came off the Longbridge Line on 20-05-2003 The Silver Machine was the 13th of 160 Rover 75's to come off the production line that day and is the 100th of 527 Starlight Silver Rover 75 2.5 V6 Connoisseur SE Auto saloons listed in the build records produced world wide.

17th May 2020, 13:16	#4
Yorkshire GOC I really should get out more....... Rover 75 connoisseur se v6 auto Join Date: May 2014 Location: Hull Posts: 2,066 Thanks: 1,842 Thanked 623 Times in 469 Posts	https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/AIRBAG-SI...oAAOSw7eld59jF This is the sensor __________________ She came off the Longbridge Line on 20-05-2003 The Silver Machine was the 13th of 160 Rover 75's to come off the production line that day and is the 100th of 527 Starlight Silver Rover 75 2.5 V6 Connoisseur SE Auto saloons listed in the build records produced world wide.

17th May 2020, 16:50	#9
Yorkshire GOC I really should get out more....... Rover 75 connoisseur se v6 auto Join Date: May 2014 Location: Hull Posts: 2,066 Thanks: 1,842 Thanked 623 Times in 469 Posts	The battery experts on here eg Colvert - will say you need to put the charger on the battery for at least 24 hours - also your very low mileage does lead to battery problems - i know my RAC battery warranty is invalid if i do less than 1000 miles per annum. As to the airbag impact sensor they do play up even when not subject to moisture - so bear this in mind. __________________ She came off the Longbridge Line on 20-05-2003 The Silver Machine was the 13th of 160 Rover 75's to come off the production line that day and is the 100th of 527 Starlight Silver Rover 75 2.5 V6 Connoisseur SE Auto saloons listed in the build records produced world wide.

17th May 2020, 13:08	#2
vitesse I really should get out more....... Rover 75 Saloon Join Date: Jul 2011 Location: Gävle Posts: 2,534 Thanks: 395 Thanked 823 Times in 652 Posts	All systems are effected by a low voltage. You need to measure the voltage either with a multimeter or the onboard diagnostics (use the search) if you can get the car started. I've found on a number of occasions the battery not to be at fault but rather the starter solenoid (kits on eBay). There's a free diagnostic programme called Toaf you can use to diagnose your SRS problem (again use the search facility). Regards

17th May 2020, 13:58	#5
RoverP480 Gets stuck in None at the moment Join Date: Jan 2018 Location: Hereford Posts: 501 Thanks: 1 Thanked 165 Times in 146 Posts	You need to get the voltage correct , as advised needs checking with a meter. If the battery is low so much that the starter wont operate you need to leave it on charge for more than a couple of hours , more like 12 to 24 would be a better.

17th May 2020, 16:10	#6
GeoffA Newbie Rover 75 Saloon Join Date: Mar 2014 Location: Maidstone Posts: 17 Thanks: 0 Thanked 2 Times in 1 Post	Hi Well I wouldn't have believed it - that there was free one about. Very interesting. Will look into it but am thinking Hmm is it going to be a touch too technical for me.Anyway thanks for that.

17th May 2020, 16:23	#8
vitesse I really should get out more....... Rover 75 Saloon Join Date: Jul 2011 Location: Gävle Posts: 2,534 Thanks: 395 Thanked 823 Times in 652 Posts	Please consider that it is the solenoid on the starter rather than the battery, it's happened to me a couple of times. Initially I thought it was the battery despite good voltage as with a fresh, or newly charged battery it always started with the extra juice. Now I've learnt the lesson. And try Toaf, as you've a newer 75 you'll need the small Autoliv SRS Tool http://toaf.roverki.eu/index.php/en/download-en), a Windows computer running Vista or higher (Win10 works) and a VW type KKL cable from eBay with pins 7 & 8 bridged. Very easy to use, even I manage it Regards

17th May 2020, 17:57	#10
Heddy This is my second home None Join Date: Feb 2013 Location: None Posts: 5,556 Thanks: 465 Thanked 1,161 Times in 924 Posts	For the airbag light I've used strip connectors, because you know the wires are firmly clamped under the screw. If that fixes it you can do a better, more professional job by soldering, maybe using heat shrink over the joint. For me, (and to my embarrassment) the strip connectors are still there I'm afraid.