Go Back   The 75 and ZT Owners Club Forums > The 75 and ZT Owners Club Forums > Technical Help Forum
Register FAQ Image Gallery Members List Calendar Mark Forums Read
Notices

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 17th January 2021, 22:40   #1
Gizmo150
Newbie
 
MGZT

Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: wales
Posts: 17
Thanks: 4
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
Default MGZT diesel with sudden starting troubles.

Hopefully, someone can help with this.
Yesterday my daughter went to supermarket . Shopping done she returned to car. Engine turns over but won't start. Flattened the battery. Good Samaritan helped with jump start but no go.
I got it started today by continuously turning it over and pumping pedal but it wouldn't tick over and kept cutting out repeatedly. Drove it to daughter house but it cut out 3 times at junctions in the 1 1/4 mile trip. That's in Cardiff, 20 miles from my home. So I need some ideas for tomorrow.

Speedometer flickers on turnover.
Glow plugs comes on and go off as normal.
Over half tank of fuel.
Haven't checked pleneum but cleaned them 2 months ago. Not had much rain in last 2 weeks.
Checked supply side of fuel filter . It's pumping out as I would expect.

Will check pleneum tomorrow.
Check ITB. UBP appears to be delivering.
I don't have any specialist equipment.

Thanks in advance of any gems of wisdom.
Gizmo150 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 17th January 2021, 23:11   #2
COLVERT
This is my second home
 
R75 Saloon.

Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: France/or Devon.
Posts: 14,003
Thanks: 3,851
Thanked 2,167 Times in 1,816 Posts
Default

Pumping the pedal will do nothing.--

If you keep trying to start it to the point the battery is flat the key might no longer work.-----( You might knacker the code. )

Make sure to charge the battery for at least 24 hours before you try again.

If you happen to get it started then check the voltage at the battery terminals with the engine ticking over.--You should see around 14.4 volts.

What you've described is a faulty alternator or an almost dead battery that doesn't seem to want to charge.
COLVERT is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 17th January 2021, 23:49   #3
Arctic
Give to Learn
 
Arctic's Avatar
 
Freelander 2

Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: West Midlands
Posts: 18,650
Thanks: 1,155
Thanked 6,407 Times in 3,874 Posts
Default

Do a leak back test after you have checked the plenums, also tap the UBP while you try and start it, see if it fires up right away, pop the connector off it, and spray with contact cleaner, not WD/40
1

Also spray the connector on the end of the fuel rail.
2

When was the fuel filter last changed.
3
Sounds like an injector

Test kit below.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/6-Cylinde....c100011.m1850
__________________
Arctic
Givology Learn to Give
Everything is Achievable

ad altiora tendo.

Check out our Nano meet dates
http://www.midlandsnanomeets.co.uk/

http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/index.php?thepage=howto

" You do the work , we supply the expertise "
Arctic is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 18th January 2021, 13:09   #4
Gizmo150
Newbie
 
MGZT

Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: wales
Posts: 17
Thanks: 4
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
Thumbs up

Quote:
Originally Posted by COLVERT View Post
Pumping the pedal will do nothing.--

If you keep trying to start it to the point the battery is flat the key might no longer work.-----( You might knacker the code. )

Make sure to charge the battery for at least 24 hours before you try again.

If you happen to get it started then check the voltage at the battery terminals with the engine ticking over.--You should see around 14.4 volts.

What you've described is a faulty alternator or an almost dead battery that doesn't seem to want to charge.
Thanks. Maybe my description is not clear enough.

When I arrived at the car yesterday the battery reading on the multimeter was 11.8v which was insufficient too turn engine over. Solenoid clicking. hooked it up to other car and eventually it stated. But it wanted to die especially with no throttle. It wouldn't tick over until it was warm and even then it was idling rough and cutting out. Without the pedal activation it would not fire up.
After disconnecting the jump leads the battery was reading 13.8. Drove around car park then drove to daughter's house as described above.
Gizmo150 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 18th January 2021, 13:23   #5
Gizmo150
Newbie
 
MGZT

Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: wales
Posts: 17
Thanks: 4
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Arctic View Post
Do a leak back test after you have checked the plenums, also tap the UBP while you try and start it, see if it fires up right away, pop the connector off it, and spray with contact cleaner, not WD/40
1

Also spray the connector on the end of the fuel rail.
2

When was the fuel filter last changed.
3
Sounds like an injector

Test kit below.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/6-Cylinde....c100011.m1850
Thanks for the links. It will take a few days to get one of those.
Fuel filter was changed 18 months ago.
Fuel flow to filter looks good so pump seems to be delivering but can't check pressure.

Today I 'll change the fuel filter and spray contacts on fuel pump and rail with contact cleaner.
Check pleneum .

Thanks.

Last edited by Gizmo150; 18th January 2021 at 16:59.. Reason: Update
Gizmo150 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 18th January 2021, 17:21   #6
Gizmo150
Newbie
 
MGZT

Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: wales
Posts: 17
Thanks: 4
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Gizmo150 View Post
Thanks for the links. It will take a few days to get one of those.
Fuel filter was changed 18 months ago.
Fuel flow to filter looks good so pump seems to be delivering but can't check pressure.

Today I 'll change the fuel filter and spray contacts on fuel pump and rail with contact cleaner.
Check pleneum .

Thanks.

Update 18/01/2021

Pleneum is dry.
Opened ECU box. That is also dry and no signs of condensation.
Cleaned contacts on UBP, no signs of corrosion. Rail connectors cleaned with electronic contact cleaner.

Have no means of charging battery. Connected to another car to charge battery. Reading 13.8v. Eventually started and steady and smooth on tick over. Not cutting out like yesterday.



However, turn engine off to check restart and it struggles to start.

Last edited by Gizmo150; 19th January 2021 at 17:12.. Reason: Wrong year doh
Gizmo150 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 18th January 2021, 21:05   #7
COLVERT
This is my second home
 
R75 Saloon.

Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: France/or Devon.
Posts: 14,003
Thanks: 3,851
Thanked 2,167 Times in 1,816 Posts
Default

You did make yourself clear in your first post.
Most of my reply is relevant.

If you connect your battery to another car you will have to run that cars engine for at least 24 hours to fully charge your battery. ( YES, 24 hours minimum. _)

Buy a cheap charger and use that.--Much cheaper than putting gallons of fuel into another car to charge your battery.---

If you keep doing what you are doing your might mess up the key code.---You have been warned. ( See my first post. ) then you'll be sorry.--

You are going to kill your battery if you are not careful.--It really, really needs a LONG charge.----As said before, 24 hours. That way to lidls for a cheap charger.

When charging your battery connect the red lead first ( positive. ) and the black lead last ( negative )---When removing the leads do so in the reverse order to the way you connected them.----
COLVERT is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 18th January 2021, 21:47   #8
Gizmo150
Newbie
 
MGZT

Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: wales
Posts: 17
Thanks: 4
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by COLVERT View Post
You did make yourself clear in your first post.
Most of my reply is relevant.

If you connect your battery to another car you will have to run that cars engine for at least 24 hours to fully charge your battery. ( YES, 24 hours minimum. _)

Buy a cheap charger and use that.--Much cheaper than putting gallons of fuel into another car to charge your battery.---

If you keep doing what you are doing your might mess up the key code.---You have been warned. ( See my first post. ) then you'll be sorry.--

You are going to kill your battery if you are not careful.--It really, really needs a LONG charge.----As said before, 24 hours. That way to lidls for a cheap charger.

When charging your battery connect the red lead first ( positive. ) and the black lead last ( negative )---When removing the leads do so in the reverse order to the way you connected them.----
Ok and thank you for your reply.

The battery only took about 15 mins to charge to 13.8v but I'll take your advice and take the charger with me tomorrow. The car is 50 yds from daughter's house. I'll take it inside n charge it. I got soaked working out in the street today.

Would a new battery be an option if this one is failing? I could take it n get it tested for faulty cell.
Gizmo150 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 19th January 2021, 15:39   #9
Gizmo150
Newbie
 
MGZT

Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: wales
Posts: 17
Thanks: 4
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Gizmo150 View Post
Ok and thank you for your reply.

The battery only took about 15 mins to charge to 13.8v but I'll take your advice and take the charger with me tomorrow. The car is 50 yds from daughter's house. I'll take it inside n charge it. I got soaked working out in the street today.

Would a new battery be an option if this one is failing? I could take it n get it tested for faulty cell.
Update. 19/01/2021

Changed fuel filter as per Artic's suggestion and excellent and detailed post. Easiest job I've done on the car and no spilled fuel. Charged battery but only for 6hrs.

Engine fires but won't pick up unless the starting procedure is maintained for ten seconds then it will tick over smoothly. Took it out for a drive and had no issues with cutting out.
However, once the ignition is switched off the same starting issues repeat.
Tomorrow I will take it to local battery dealer and get that checked.
Frustrated.
Gizmo150 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 19th January 2021, 18:21   #10
COLVERT
This is my second home
 
R75 Saloon.

Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: France/or Devon.
Posts: 14,003
Thanks: 3,851
Thanked 2,167 Times in 1,816 Posts
Default

Very unlikely to be the battery even though you have only quarter charged it.

When you say---starting procedure--- do you mean you have to use the starter motor for ten seconds ??

Give your battery a full charge as it must now be quite low using the starter for so long.

I get the impression from what you are saying that you have, maybe, low fuel pressure and it needs that long on the starter before the pressure is high enough for the ECU to kick in.
COLVERT is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT. The time now is 12:12.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
Copyright © 2006-2023, The Rover 75 & MG ZT Owners Club Ltd