K series problem MG TF

[pletevl]

Hi all,

Sorry for asking this here but I'm hoping someone might be able to help, it is K series related but in my 2004 MG TF 135. I have posted this over on the other forum.

Does anyone know why my car smells rich and stalls on cold mornings ?

It starts fine and ticks over fine for about 30 seconds (never timed it) and then starts to play up, the tickover speed starts to lower, it's starts smelling rich from the exhaust, the tickover starts to get lumpy.

Its drives fine, no missfire etc. But dip the clutch at a juction and it stalls, and sometimes it's difficult to get it to restart.

Once the engine is up to temperature it's fine.

I have a T4 and it shows nothing weird. (that I can see)
I have changed the LAMBDA for a genuine BOSCH one and that made no difference.
I have changed the ECU coolant temp sender, no difference.
I have checked and reset the IACV idle valve and no difference.

Any ideas ?????

Thanks

Pete.

[Mark Murphy]

Faulty fuel regulator?

[marinabrian]

Look at the live data, analogue inputs and compare the LH column of figure (actual) to the RH column of figures (expected) for a bit more insight.

My money is on a wiring defect to the MAP sensor

Brian

[pletevl]

Thanks Brian,

I was hoping you'd reply to this.

T4 does show a correct figure engine off (around 98) and engine running (around 39) for the MAP.
What do you have in mind ? broken wires ? air temp problem ? an out of value reading ?

[Odd Job]

I've had this on my ZS.
It has a 135 TF engine fitted.
On the inlet manifold there is a black air control valve which has a black hose attached on the back of it. It is held onto the manifold with two small torques bolts. Can be a bit of a pig to get in and undo.
These are prone to sticking in the open position, too much air, so then stalls the engine. They get clogged up with gunge from the inlet manifold.

Take it off and try and clean it out with carb. cleaner.
If that doesn't work you'll need to replace it I'm afraid.
If they are still available they are about £60 if memory serves.

I'll post pics later. I'm at work at the moment!

Richard

[Rick-sta]

We had a very similar issue with our TF. Bit of a lumpy idle, strong smell from the fumes, would often cut out and struggle to restart. You'd pull out of a junction, foot hard down on the accelerator and there'd be no power, followed by some jolting before power finally restored. Would only do it whilst cold, once warmed up it would be fine.

Had it plugged into a t4 which showed an issue with the lambda sensor, cam sensor and coil packs/leads. Had those bits replaced and it's been running perfectly since.

[pletevl]

The IACV was cleaned and tested and reset with T4. It then tests it and it passed the test.

The lambda is brand new and made no difference.

The car only stalls at idle, as you dip the clutch and the idle drops, I can catch it and stop it from stalling. In fact coming up to a junction i let the engine drop to 900 rpms and then dip the clutch and it doesn't stall. Apart from that, it drives fine, no hesitation, no stutters or missfiring, absolutely fine.

[Odd Job]

Originally Posted by Odd Job

I've had this on my ZS.
It has a 135 TF engine fitted.
On the inlet manifold there is a black air control valve which has a black hose attached on the back of it. It is held onto the manifold with two small torques bolts. Can be a bit of a pig to get in and undo.
These are prone to sticking in the open position, too much air, so then stalls the engine. They get clogged up with gunge from the inlet manifold.

Take it off and try and clean it out with carb. cleaner.
If that doesn't work you'll need to replace it I'm afraid.
If they are still available they are about £60 if memory serves.

I'll post pics later. I'm at work at the moment!

Richard

Try this before you spend any money.
Remove the valve, clean it out, refit. See what happens.

Use carb cleaner or brake cleaner. Let it dry out before refitting.

[Comfortably Numb]

I had similar problems on my old VVC, except that once warmed, the idle would wander up and down, usually just picking up as it was about to stall, but occasionally stalling. Cleaning the IACV and the throttle body and butterfly improved it, but it still isn't perfect. PS I need to get rid. I no longer have the time or inclination for restoring it, as the body is in poor condition, but is mechanically sound, (replacement engine) and would make a good donor. It's an Rreg, BRG, with matching, hardly used hard top, which is hanging in the garage. Interior is sandstone leather.

[WillyHeckaslike]

Originally Posted by pletevl

You dip the clutch and the idle drops.

Had this with my Rover 25 last year. Started without warning and rapidly moved on to stalling accompanied by a very audible grating sound. Resulting fix was a full clutch change though the main culprit was the release bearing which had failed and chewed into the guide sleeve creating extra load on the engine when the clutch was used. I was surprised that the garage managed to obtain a new guide sleeve so quickly but the mechanic who is an ex-Land Rover dealer tech said that it was also used by Peugeot and so readily still available.

Hopefully this won't be the cause of your problem but thought it worth mentioning.