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Old 20th May 2020, 21:13   #11
Sonic ZS
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To be honest Brian, I've repaired a few of these now, and opened up a few more whilst saving the panels, and I'm still not 100% sure why the rear sections corrode so badly ?

Any box section on a vehicle should always have a drain(s) of some description at the lowest point - either a simple drilled hole with the burr removed (as 75's generally have along the length of the factory sills), or a proper pressed outlet to let any moisture escape. Equally, a decent wax injection spray covering the internal surfaces should be applied to prevent rust forming.

The jury's still out, but I tend to think that a missing plastic jacking pad allows mud & muck to enter the rear sill chamber at the base of the jacking bracket, collects inside and subsequently holds moisture against the outer sill skin. The factory wax injection is now getting old and if dried out, the rust will start.

However, an equal argument would therefore be 'Why doesn't it happen at the front then ?' In answer, I don't know.

However, what I can say is that the sill section ahead of the foam acoustic diaphragm always seems to be completely rust free (assuming it's not been damaged & badly repaired.....but that's a whole other story....)

A few years ago, whilst repairing the sills on my Range Rover Classic, I made a small tool which when clamped in a vice, presses a 'factory' type drain into a flange. Although not strictly original, I've used this on the new sill sections on S542AOX, directly below the bottom front corner of the rear inner arch to allow any water that gets in around the wheelarch flange to drain straight out, saving it from having to sit around the jacking point. Ask me again in 20 years whether it's worked....
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Old 20th May 2020, 21:29   #12
Dallas
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Get yourself a endoscope cam and go poking.





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Old 20th May 2020, 21:35   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sonic ZS View Post
To be honest Brian, I've repaired a few of these now, and opened up a few more whilst saving the panels, and I'm still not 100% sure why the rear sections corrode so badly ?

Any box section on a vehicle should always have a drain(s) of some description at the lowest point - either a simple drilled hole with the burr removed (as 75's generally have along the length of the factory sills), or a proper pressed outlet to let any moisture escape. Equally, a decent wax injection spray covering the internal surfaces should be applied to prevent rust forming.

The jury's still out, but I tend to think that a missing plastic jacking pad allows mud & muck to enter the rear sill chamber at the base of the jacking bracket, collects inside and subsequently holds moisture against the outer sill skin. The factory wax injection is now getting old and if dried out, the rust will start.

However, an equal argument would therefore be 'Why doesn't it happen at the front then ?' In answer, I don't know.

However, what I can say is that the sill section ahead of the foam acoustic diaphragm always seems to be completely rust free (assuming it's not been damaged & badly repaired.....but that's a whole other story....)

A few years ago, whilst repairing the sills on my Range Rover Classic, I made a small tool which when clamped in a vice, presses a 'factory' type drain into a flange. Although not strictly original, I've used this on the new sill sections on S542AOX, directly below the bottom front corner of the rear inner arch to allow any water that gets in around the wheelarch flange to drain straight out, saving it from having to sit around the jacking point. Ask me again in 20 years whether it's worked....
Yes, my thoughts are the acoustic baffle is the cause of the problem, and in the cars I've repaired in this area, I've noticed the water gets inside through the waist trim clips, and runs down the inner wheelarch into the sill area in the section aft of the baffle.

It's a definite design flaw, but the cars have outlived their intended design brief by some margin now.

In any event, these are a nicely crafted piece of kit, and fitted properly and rustproofed with decent cavity wax, will more than likely be suitable to see the car to the end of it's days.

I've seen how you repaired the sill of your tourer, and know you understand the benefits of not employing the "short term MOT patch" method of sill repair.

The wife's 75 is ropey at the front and back of the nearside sill, and for that reason alone, I'm going to resurrect and recommission her Freelander, as I can't be bothered to do the job, and I intend stripping out her 75 and effectively reshelling it into my Firefrost 1800.

Once that's done, I'll cube the ZT, and have one nice 75, and maybe something decent.

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Old 20th May 2020, 22:13   #14
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Dallas - I bought one in Lidl a few years ago, although I'm sure the technology has moved on a lot since then ! But used on both the Tourer and the S-reg (drivers side) to check along the full length for any nasties

The passenger side sill on S542AOX is a different matter and is currently removed along it's full length (....so no need for an endoscope !! ) following poor accident repairs done many, many years ago.

I'll post up a thread on the internal structure in the future, once repairs are complete - don't hold your breath

Brian, the acoustic baffles do stop any water from running forward to the other drains, and also stop any air movement that might occur from the front section of sill. I've never found anything that sticks quite as well as the damned expanding foam - like the proverbial sh*t to a blanket
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Old 21st May 2020, 19:59   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by marinabrian View Post
Yes, my thoughts are the acoustic baffle is the cause of the problem, and in the cars I've repaired in this area, I've noticed the water gets inside through the waist trim clips, and runs down the inner wheelarch into the sill area in the section aft of the baffle.

It's a definite design flaw, but the cars have outlived their intended design brief by some margin now.
Interesting Brian - my own observations were that the sill finisher trim tends to work its way backwards, an as it does the back end starts to come away from the bodywork very very slightly due to the shape of the sill, pulling the trim away a little bit from the car, creating a gap between the last finisher clip and the body (if you follow that - sorry for rubbish explanation!).

This last clip hole is above the affected area.

Any thoughts on my view, or can you disprove it?

Those wretched waist trim clips are a known leak point I will accept, perhaps both areas contribute to the problem. The first waist clip doesn't have a soft washer but has a round hole with no scope for adjustment, IIRC.

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However, an equal argument would therefore be 'Why doesn't it happen at the front then ?' In answer, I don't know.
Unfortunately IT DOES HAPPEN AT THE FRONT - but not due to a missing jack pad. And you have to go looking to find the problem behind the lower A-post interior trim.

Probably lots of cars have structural rust to the front inner jacking structure. Mine does and I am not sure if to get it welded (£££!!) or keeping waiting for an immaculate car of the same spec to turn up for sale.
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Old 29th May 2020, 15:28   #16
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Does any one know if he does a right side ?
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Old 29th May 2020, 15:36   #17
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Does any one know if he does a right side ?
Does both

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Old 29th May 2020, 15:42   #18
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Does any one know if he does a right side ?
There is a thread on here that confirms Tom will sell a pair to members @£95 plus postage
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