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17th August 2017, 09:21 | #1 |
Newbie
MG ZT Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Swansea
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Newbie, rear suspension rebuild and thank you
Hi there
Three months a go, I bought a MG ZT. Three weeks a go, I had an upper suspension failure (it cracked), due to rust, so I’ve completed a rear suspension rebuild. During the rebuild, I searched the forum for tips and info and I just wanted to say ‘thank you’. The advice posted here proved invaluable. So, I’d thought I’d share the experience... After reviewing the poor state of the suspension, I decided to replace all components, for both sides, either with refurbished or new parts. So, the shopping list was… Used parts, included… Subframe (off a 75) Toe brackets New parts included… Upper arms Lower arms Top bushes Lower bushes Tow bushes Rollbar brackets Rollbar link joints Springs Shock absorbers Brake back plates Hubs Handbrake pads, clips, springs and expander Handbrake cable Discs Caliper rebuild Pads Nuts, bolts, for all. The hardest thing was trying to undo the corroded bolts. Nearly all rounded off. We found an extractor socket (Irwin expanding bolt grip – we got ours from screwwfix) that got us out of sticky water and the blowtorch was also a trusted companion. Fitting the subframe was easy, but good to have a second pair of hands. And working with new bolts is refreshing. I fitted the upper arms before fitting the subframe but left torquing up until the car sat on it's wheels. Which, indecently meant it sitting on concrete blocks, so I could move underneath. For the toe brackets, the bolts from Rimmer weren't available so I got some 10.9 bolts off ebay (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/231821119338). Pressing the bushes in and out for the upper and lower joints and the tow joints was OK once we (I should say my dad) crafted a tool. And we put the bushes in the freezer and heated up the joint to ease fitment. Very Heath Robinson but effective. Brake overhaul was OK. Rather than work with rushy springs and clips, all were replaced from products sourced from ebay. All were reasonably priced. The rebuild kits for the calipers were easy to fit. The handbrake was a NAUGHTY WORD-NAUGHTY WORD-NAUGHTY WORD-. Since I had new cables because I was replacing the backplate (the cable and plate had become one), I cut off the cable where it meets the underside inspection hole, with a Dremal cutting disc. This was probably the worst job. Dampers and springs were very easy. I’ll be cutting out the bushes from the subframe. Three of them are OK and I might be able to machine a fourth, just in case I want to fit to car, in the future. The work took me and my dad around 2 weeks. Everything has had a lick of paint, even the new stuff. The subframe, rollbar and toe brackets were stripped back and covered in Red Oxide paint before being sprayed and we’ve wax oiled the underbody and anywhere where water can be trapped. Next stage is a four wheel alignment. I’m hoping that they can adjust the handbrake because I’ve started to hit the wall. My one tip: Work with nice bolts, nuts and ensure threads are clean. Makes life so much easier. I've got loads of pics of the rebuild but it seems I'm restricted to 5 images, is that right? |
17th August 2017, 09:37 | #2 |
This is my second home
1.8t Tourer Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Tanelorn
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Thanks for your post, sounds like you've got stuck right in there, you can embed pics hosted from somewhere else like flickr (but not photobucket, they don't allow it). It'd be great to see some photo's of the rebuild.
__________________
Need a T4 ?: T4 Owners Map thanks to Stevestrat ( use at your own risk) Where?: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tanelorn Mods/Retrofits: PCV vortex 'filter'; bluetooth; inline thermostat; reversing sensors; plenum spyhole ; headlamp washers ; Diy mp3 player replacing CD multichanger; FBH with remote; Headlamp washers; black/chrome front grille, rear blind; Xenon projectors To do: puddle lights; 2 Din cd/nav to fit; boot release button |
17th August 2017, 09:39 | #3 |
I really should get out more.......
MG ZTT Join Date: Jun 2014
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working on mine at the moment just waiting for upper arms to arrive
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17th August 2017, 10:10 | #4 |
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MG ZT Join Date: Aug 2017
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Thanks Avulon. So I just copy and paste the url from the image in flickr?
Elroy, if you need help, give me a shout. |
17th August 2017, 11:25 | #5 | |
This is my second home
1.8t Tourer Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Tanelorn
Posts: 4,830
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Thanked 1,148 Times in 916 Posts
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Quote:
__________________
Need a T4 ?: T4 Owners Map thanks to Stevestrat ( use at your own risk) Where?: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tanelorn Mods/Retrofits: PCV vortex 'filter'; bluetooth; inline thermostat; reversing sensors; plenum spyhole ; headlamp washers ; Diy mp3 player replacing CD multichanger; FBH with remote; Headlamp washers; black/chrome front grille, rear blind; Xenon projectors To do: puddle lights; 2 Din cd/nav to fit; boot release button |
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17th August 2017, 11:33 | #6 |
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That's a great help. Cheers Avulon
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17th August 2017, 11:41 | #7 |
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MG ZT Join Date: Aug 2017
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photos from rebuild
01 by steven kitching, on Flickr
02 by steven kitching, on Flickr 04 by steven kitching, on Flickr 05 by steven kitching, on Flickr 06 by steven kitching, on Flickr 07 by steven kitching, on Flickr 08.1 by steven kitching, on Flickr 08 by steven kitching, on Flickr 09 by steven kitching, on Flickr 10 by steven kitching, on Flickr 11 by steven kitching, on Flickr 12 by steven kitching, on Flickr 13 by steven kitching, on Flickr 14 by steven kitching, on Flickr 15 by steven kitching, on Flickr 16 by steven kitching, on Flickr 17 by steven kitching, on Flickr 99 by steven kitching, on Flickr |
17th August 2017, 12:54 | #8 |
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MG ZT Join Date: Feb 2016
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I wonder how much it cost you just in parts
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17th August 2017, 12:58 | #9 |
Newbie
MG ZT Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Swansea
Posts: 17
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Don't want to think about it. Sub frame was £100 and uppers were £40 each of ebay. Discs were £120 for pads and discs. Most of rest from Rimmer.
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17th August 2017, 18:48 | #10 |
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MG ZT Join Date: Jun 2015
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Avulon, your work is inspiring. Where did you source the subframe bushes? Are they the same as for the ZT?
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