Caliper carrier bracket - fixing bolts on rear

Abbadon · 30th September 2014, 16:59

Can anyone guide me on the best method to undo and more importantly re-torque the caliper carrier bracket bolts, when replacing a rear wheel bearing/hub?

Its a devil to get any decent tool on to them, apart from a simple ring spanner of 13mm, which is not long at all.

I can just about get them off, but I was worried about the bolts rounding since I would have rather used something 6 sided not multipoint..

But I cannot get anything on to them that I can get the torque wrench on to, there is no access for a socket with any sort of extension or flexible joint....

Since they are holding the calipers on I don't like the thought of just doing them back up with the spanner...

Andy

okenora · 30th September 2014, 17:12

have you removed the caliper off the carrier or did you to unbolt it as one unit? access is far better with the caliper off, good enough for a 3/8" drive socket, maybe a small 1/2" drive one

Abbadon · 30th September 2014, 20:04

It's the upper arm that's in the way of the upper bolt, I accept the lower one might be easier, both the Haynes and a good thread on here say don't remove calliper tho so I assumed there must be a way or tool I don't have?

pab · 30th September 2014, 20:12

Remove the Caliper first. A decent ratchet ring spanner will undo the Caliper. If your changing the discs and pads, give the two bolts a squirt of WD-40 the night before.

Doc Evil · 30th September 2014, 20:30

Remove calliper
Undo with ring/ratchet spanner then apply thread locking compound to thread on reassembly
Doc

okenora · 30th September 2014, 20:58

just did this job last week, caliper off gives best access for a spanner but I could get a socket on both the bolts, shallow 13mm 3/8th" socket for top bolt and got a 1/2" socket with wobble bar onto bottom one. Was the n/s bearing I did, can't see o/s being much different. If you are worried about rounding the bolts then give yourself the best odds by getting 2 new bolts and a good quality 13mm long spanner.

Doc Evil · 30th September 2014, 21:27

If you get new genuine bolts from rimmers will have thread locker on already so dont add more
Doc
ps you can tell if they have the thteads are blue for med strength or red for high should only need med strength locker

Mike Noc · 1st October 2014, 07:55

Quote:

Originally Posted by Abbadon

But I cannot get anything on to them that I can get the torque wrench on to, there is no access for a socket with any sort of extension or flexible joint....

Since they are holding the calipers on I don't like the thought of just doing them back up with the spanner...

Andy if you cut down an old socket you can use the torque wrench on a spanner or Allen key. Just keep the wrench as near to the bolt as possible.

I made up two to cover different size spanners and Allen keys.

Abbadon · 1st October 2014, 18:52

That's a clever little setup there! Does the distance from Allen key end to wrench affect the actual torque much? I. E reduce or magnify torque at the fixing?

Mike Noc · 2nd October 2014, 07:56

Yes the further you move the torque wrench away from the bolt you are tightening the higher the force, so good to keep the wrench as near to the bolt as possible.

As with all things there is a tolerance, and with anything that requires an accurate tightening torque the manufacturer should allow access for a torque wrench to be used.

At least you won't leave anything too loose doing it this way and you should be well inside the ball park.

30th September 2014, 16:59	#1
Abbadon Avid contributor MG ZT+ Join Date: Jul 2014 Location: Swansea Posts: 247 Thanks: 100 Thanked 18 Times in 16 Posts	Caliper carrier bracket - fixing bolts on rear Can anyone guide me on the best method to undo and more importantly re-torque the caliper carrier bracket bolts, when replacing a rear wheel bearing/hub? Its a devil to get any decent tool on to them, apart from a simple ring spanner of 13mm, which is not long at all. I can just about get them off, but I was worried about the bolts rounding since I would have rather used something 6 sided not multipoint.. But I cannot get anything on to them that I can get the torque wrench on to, there is no access for a socket with any sort of extension or flexible joint.... Since they are holding the calipers on I don't like the thought of just doing them back up with the spanner... Andy

30th September 2014, 20:30	#5
Doc Evil Gets stuck in Rover 75 1.8 Classic Saloon Join Date: Jan 2014 Location: Newton Abbot Posts: 823 Thanks: 46 Thanked 175 Times in 144 Posts	Remove calliper Undo with ring/ratchet spanner then apply thread locking compound to thread on reassembly Doc __________________ NOT EVIL REALLY BUT REALLY A DOC

30th September 2014, 20:58	#6
okenora Posted a thing or two Rover 75 Conn CDT SE + intelligence pack Join Date: Jun 2013 Location: Enniskillen Posts: 1,094 Thanks: 6 Thanked 141 Times in 128 Posts	just did this job last week, caliper off gives best access for a spanner but I could get a socket on both the bolts, shallow 13mm 3/8th" socket for top bolt and got a 1/2" socket with wobble bar onto bottom one. Was the n/s bearing I did, can't see o/s being much different. If you are worried about rounding the bolts then give yourself the best odds by getting 2 new bolts and a good quality 13mm long spanner. Last edited by okenora; 30th September 2014 at 21:00..

30th September 2014, 21:27	#7
Doc Evil Gets stuck in Rover 75 1.8 Classic Saloon Join Date: Jan 2014 Location: Newton Abbot Posts: 823 Thanks: 46 Thanked 175 Times in 144 Posts	If you get new genuine bolts from rimmers will have thread locker on already so dont add more Doc ps you can tell if they have the thteads are blue for med strength or red for high should only need med strength locker __________________ NOT EVIL REALLY BUT REALLY A DOC

30th September 2014, 17:12	#2
okenora Posted a thing or two Rover 75 Conn CDT SE + intelligence pack Join Date: Jun 2013 Location: Enniskillen Posts: 1,094 Thanks: 6 Thanked 141 Times in 128 Posts	have you removed the caliper off the carrier or did you to unbolt it as one unit? access is far better with the caliper off, good enough for a 3/8" drive socket, maybe a small 1/2" drive one

30th September 2014, 20:04	#3
Abbadon Avid contributor MG ZT+ Join Date: Jul 2014 Location: Swansea Posts: 247 Thanks: 100 Thanked 18 Times in 16 Posts	It's the upper arm that's in the way of the upper bolt, I accept the lower one might be easier, both the Haynes and a good thread on here say don't remove calliper tho so I assumed there must be a way or tool I don't have?

30th September 2014, 20:12	#4
pab Banned MG ZT V6 190+ Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Leeds Posts: 33,223 Thanks: 41 Thanked 1,614 Times in 1,416 Posts	Remove the Caliper first. A decent ratchet ring spanner will undo the Caliper. If your changing the discs and pads, give the two bolts a squirt of WD-40 the night before.

1st October 2014, 18:52	#9
Abbadon Avid contributor MG ZT+ Join Date: Jul 2014 Location: Swansea Posts: 247 Thanks: 100 Thanked 18 Times in 16 Posts	That's a clever little setup there! Does the distance from Allen key end to wrench affect the actual torque much? I. E reduce or magnify torque at the fixing?

2nd October 2014, 07:56	#10
Mike Noc This is my second home Rover 75 CDT Manual Connoisseur SE, Rover 75 CDT Automatic Connoisseur SE & a Freelander Td4. Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Hampshire Posts: 11,547 Thanks: 3,470 Thanked 3,119 Times in 2,247 Posts	Yes the further you move the torque wrench away from the bolt you are tightening the higher the force, so good to keep the wrench as near to the bolt as possible. As with all things there is a tolerance, and with anything that requires an accurate tightening torque the manufacturer should allow access for a torque wrench to be used. At least you won't leave anything too loose doing it this way and you should be well inside the ball park.