Would it be worth having cooling system flushed/unblocked and coolant replaced?

[Chris K]

My 1.8T has started running hot again (cooling fan stays on) - last time this happened it blew head gasket - that was replaced in Nov

i've topped up so there's plenty coolant - also chucked in can of K-Seal

i anticipate the head gasket will blow again if i cant cool the engine down somehow

Would it be worth having cooling system flushed/unblocked and coolant replaced, or any other step i can take before it blows?

I'm in Loughborough, Leics if anyone knows reliable garage

[Cymrudragon]

Originally Posted by jethrouk

My 1.8T has started running hot again (cooling fan stays on) - last time this happened it blew head gasket - that was replaced in Nov

i've topped up so there's plenty coolant - also chucked in can of K-Seal

i anticipate the head gasket will blow again if i cant cool the engine down somehow

Would it be worth having cooling system flushed/unblocked and coolant replaced, or any other step i can take before it blows?

I'm in Loughborough, Leics if anyone knows reliable garage

Have you checked for air locks??? what is the state of the stat? most failors are lack of coolent flow and air lock, or gaskit failer.
how much water are you adding on a daily / weekly basis ? ps addatives to the coolent eg k seal can block the fins on the matrix not a good thing

[Chris K]

I'm not very clever with cars so whatever needs doing will need to be done by the garage - apart form filling up the rad (lost about 2 litres over 2 months)

can i check for airlocks?

if matrix is blocked could that be fixed by system flushing?

.

[Cymrudragon]

Originally Posted by jethrouk

I'm not very clever with cars so whatever needs doing will need to be done by the garage - apart form filling up the rad (lost about 2 litres over 2 months)

can i check for airlocks?

if matrix is blocked could that be fixed by system flushing?

.

There is a bleed screw on one of the pipes on the right of engine it is situated in a metal T piece and may look like a self taping bolt or a plastic bolt with a flat screwdriver head . when the engine is cold remove the header tank and raise it as high as it will go remove bleed screw and fill slow untill water runs through the hole in one long steady stream let the leval in the tank fall to the mark MAX and fit bleed screw, get the engineback up to temp and then let cool down and re check the coolent level and all the pipes for air if there is air the top rad pipe will be hard to squeeze .

if you are loosing water over a period of time this is a leek from one ofthe hose pipes as you have hade the hg done . how long has the hg been done and is there any sign of a leek. how long have you got on the guarentee on the work carred out at the garage you had the hg done ? if the hg as gone again as this as been known to happen any sign of mayo on the oil filler cap, and dipstick.
as for the matrix yes it can , simply done by flushing the top pipe and removing the lower rad pipe . the big things on thease car's are air lock

[Simon W]

Originally Posted by jethrouk

My 1.8T has started running hot again (cooling fan stays on) - last time this happened it blew head gasket - that was replaced in Nov

i've topped up so there's plenty coolant - also chucked in can of K-Seal

i anticipate the head gasket will blow again if i cant cool the engine down somehow

Would it be worth having cooling system flushed/unblocked and coolant replaced, or any other step i can take before it blows?

I'm in Loughborough, Leics if anyone knows reliable garage

Take it to Lates - he'll suss it out.

(40 miles from you - Grandborough).

[Cymrudragon]

Originally Posted by Simon W

Take it to Lates - he'll suss it out.

(40 miles from you - Grandborough).

just had to get a air lock out of the system for another member who had it filled by the other method ......vacum filled, boy he was lucky had to unblock the matrix as well so

[Chris K]

Originally Posted by cwmrudragon

There is a bleed screw on one of the pipes on the right of engine it is situated in a metal T piece and may look like a self taping bolt or a plastic bolt with a flat screwdriver head . when the engine is cold remove the header tank and raise it as high as it will go remove bleed screw and fill slow untill water runs through the hole in one long steady stream let the leval in the tank fall to the mark MAX and fit bleed screw, get the engineback up to temp and then let cool down and re check the coolent level and all the pipes for air if there is air the top rad pipe will be hard to squeeze .

if you are loosing water over a period of time this is a leek from one ofthe hose pipes as you have hade the hg done . how long has the hg been done and is there any sign of a leek. how long have you got on the guarentee on the work carred out at the garage you had the hg done ? if the hg as gone again as this as been known to happen any sign of mayo on the oil filler cap, and dipstick.
as for the matrix yes it can , simply done by flushing the top pipe and removing the lower rad pipe . the big things on thease car's are air lock

I'll give that a try Saturday morning - thanks very much

[Chris K]

Just had a little thought - If i was to flush the radiator tomorow

Should i consider just taking off the top hose & flushing the whole system with hose pipe (not just the radiator)?

if so should i flush into the radiator and out of the engine, or into the engine and out of the radiator

[kaiser]

You should establish the course for the hot running.
Firstly is the engine running hot? And if you say so, why. If the fan stays on it could be for several reasons, not all of them because of high temperature. It would be a good thing to have an aftermarket temperature gauge! If you have had one HGF, I would think it should be top of you list of things to do!! Look up Hans's temperature add on instrument.
Secondly, if we assume the engine is running hot, then why is that the case. Is the radiator blocked, have you got an air-lock (which is not so likely on the 4 cylinder engine, but if present would indicate water loss), problem with exhaust, fuel, timing, thermostat, binding brakes etc.

It would be wise to have it properly investigated. Running hot and not loosing water sounds like thermostat stuck, water pump problem or blockage of part of the cooling system. In the meantime use full heater to provide max cooling and drive only if necessary.

As for flushing change directions and get in where you can to dislodge scale and dirt. I am however not so sure I would do this until I had established what is going on. Unless, of course, your system is contaminated.

[brownie21]

Originally Posted by jethrouk

My 1.8T has started running hot again (cooling fan stays on) - last time this happened it blew head gasket - that was replaced in Nov

i've topped up so there's plenty coolant - also chucked in can of K-Seal

i anticipate the head gasket will blow again if i cant cool the engine down somehow

Would it be worth having cooling system flushed/unblocked and coolant replaced, or any other step i can take before it blows?

I'm in Loughborough, Leics if anyone knows reliable garage

Each time your headgasket is replaced, the cylinder head is skimmed. If it has been done more than once already it will be rendered useless and the lack of compression will eventually lead to overheat and another HGF (even if MLS is used) Heads should only be skimmed once (and some say never). Recon heads are about £250. I know all this from a very costly recent personal experience. I tried K seal also but it had gone beyond that.