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Old 28th July 2021, 22:42   #11
AndrewJames
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Originally Posted by HarryM1BYT View Post
I don't know the name for this other cast arm, which pivots near the sill, but that looks fine from below. The red colour, which fixes the bracket, is the first coat of the rust proofing substance showing, where they missed it with the 'black stuff' top coat. I failed to get the name of the actual treatment, but it comes in a spray can - anyone know what it might be - red followed by black?



Sorry to hear about your troubles. I'd say that's your trailing arm and I'd guess red stuff may be red oxide primer/undercoat followed by the black stuff being whatever underseal they have used.
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Old 29th July 2021, 09:47   #12
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I will second the Bilt Hammer products, 4 or 5 cans is enough to do most cars including box sections , cavities and the underside.

It is /was very well rustproofed at the factory, but before the final things went on like the exhaust and rear arms - which was why I wanted them to concentrate their efforts mainly on those areas. To be fair, they did at least clean the loose off, before spraying what they actually did do. I also made it clear that I know my way around vehicles and would have done it myself were I fitter.

My MOT mate only works Friday and my plan is to let him take a look before doing anything.
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Old 29th July 2021, 16:29   #13
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I'm just getting too old for scambling about under cars, which was why I paid a company to do it. It's really the first time that I have not been able to do work on my own cars and this happens.
let them do the scrambling around under the car. you paid good money and they made a mess of it. go round there and tell them to sort it out. dont take this lying down, (no punn intended ) they probably thought because you dont look twenty one anymore that you would not bother checking underneath afterwards . kick up a stink about it. theres too much of this going on as no one cares anymore. ......
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Old 30th July 2021, 12:56   #14
HarryM1BYT
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I delayed contacting them until today, because I wanted an opinion from my friendly local MOT guy, too be armed with, but he was too busy to have a look and time was pressing for me too. We are packing for a two week holiday.

So I rang them just armed just with my own list of complaints and he has agreed that I return it after the hols, for everything to be sorted. No argument and all quite pleasant.

He claimed not to have realised I wanted the front pipes sorted. He thought it was just the rear and had spent most of a day on those - I can believe that, because he dropped the fuel tank to do it. Didn't know how they had failed to address the rust protection of the upper sides of the arms. Hadn't known he had hit anything when dropping it off the ramps - possible I suppose, moving off ramps is noisy.

I made clear I was happy about what he had done, just concerned about what he hadn't done and the damaged under floor.


I absolutely hate having to complain, I would much rather things went without a hitch.
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http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...40#post1764540

Fix a poor handbrake; DIY ABS diagnostic unit; Loan of the spanner needed to change the CDT belts; free OBD diagnostics +MAF; Correct Bosch MAF cheap; DVB-T install in an ex-hi-line system; DD install with a HK amp; FBH servicing.

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Last edited by HarryM1BYT; 30th July 2021 at 13:07..
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Old 30th July 2021, 21:26   #15
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Hi Harry. No one likes to complain, but if I pay for a certain job to be done, I expect it to be done properly, and as described. You have done the right thing in going back and asking them to do the job properly.I wish I could afford to hire a hoist ramp to get my car up in the air so I could get to every area underneath to make sure I have covered everything for Waxoyling.
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Old 26th August 2021, 16:14   #16
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Now sorted, delayed due to my holidays and other commitments. I agreed with them to leave the front bits of pipes under the arches, as they are very short, well greased and protected from weather by plastic conduit I fitted years ago.


So today, they just had the upper surfaces of the rear arms to do, after removing the wheels, plus repairing the damage they had done to the original underseal under the main body.



I intended telling them that the wheel nut torque setting should be 92ft/ib, which I regretted once back home. My torque wrench maxs out at 200, but would not budge them. I had to use a socket with a long bar, to get enough leverage, then re-tighten to the specified 92.
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How To's and items I offer for free, or just to cover the cost of my expenses...

http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...40#post1764540

Fix a poor handbrake; DIY ABS diagnostic unit; Loan of the spanner needed to change the CDT belts; free OBD diagnostics +MAF; Correct Bosch MAF cheap; DVB-T install in an ex-hi-line system; DD install with a HK amp; FBH servicing.

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