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Old 26th March 2017, 16:23   #1
zedhed
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Default red warning light temp guage

just blasted the car up and down our road for 10 mins just to try and clear the oil in the exhaust and clear the surface rust off the brakes.anyway I have a digital gauge fitted in mine as well and temp went into 105 and red warning light came on.no water in oil and vice versa.standard gauge was at the quarter to position.any ideas folks.
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Old 26th March 2017, 16:26   #2
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Perfectly normal. The standard gauge doesn't move until 115C.
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Old 26th March 2017, 16:40   #3
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hope your right bud.well there weren't any coolant loss either and fan works.guess the only way to tell is a compression test.
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Old 26th March 2017, 16:44   #4
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Just done a test regarding this on my own. Did the big noisy fan come on at 105?
Edit - just seen it did. that sounds normal to me. Maybe it's the digital gauge that alarms without knowing the fan will cool things down?

Second edit, just quoted the wrong post.
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Old 26th March 2017, 16:56   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by madeupname View Post
Just done a test regarding this on my own. Did the big noisy fan come on at 105?
Edit - just seen it did. that sounds normal to me. Maybe it's the digital gauge that alarms without knowing the fan will cool things down?

Second edit, just quoted the wrong post.
yes bud fan came on.i think probably the gauge I have is designed to illuminate the red warning light at 100 but as soon as the fan came on at 105 I stuck it back on the drive and dissent really give the fan chance to cool the engine tbh
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Old 26th March 2017, 17:14   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zedhed View Post
yes bud fan came on.i think probably the gauge I have is designed to illuminate the red warning light at 100 but as soon as the fan came on at 105 I stuck it back on the drive and dissent really give the fan chance to cool the engine tbh
In that case I've done my bit and your problem is beyond my understanding. Someone like French Mike or Arctic will probably be able to help more
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Old 26th March 2017, 18:35   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zedhed View Post
temp went into 105 and red warning light came on.
Do you mean the warning light on the MGR gauge or have you a light on your DIY gauge?

Either way, 105C is nothing to worry about assuming your gauge is actually measuring the head temperature and not something remote from the engine. I know people have installed thermocouple gauges with the probe contacting the heater pipe in the footwell for example. This is OK for most normal situations, but it won't react fast enough to a serious overheat. It needs to be in contact with the head. Just a thought, cos I'm not sure what the problem is.

If you park a 1.8T after a brisk run with the engine hot, the cooling fan may well trip on and stay on after removing the key. This is a heat soak condition and the five minute fan is a built in safety feature.

TC

Last edited by T-Cut; 26th March 2017 at 18:37..
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Old 26th March 2017, 19:30   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by T-Cut View Post
Do you mean the warning light on the MGR gauge or have you a light on your DIY gauge?

Either way, 105C is nothing to worry about assuming your gauge is actually measuring the head temperature and not something remote from the engine. I know people have installed thermocouple gauges with the probe contacting the heater pipe in the footwell for example. This is OK for most normal situations, but it won't react fast enough to a serious overheat. It needs to be in contact with the head. Just a thought, cos I'm not sure what the problem is.

If you park a 1.8T after a brisk run with the engine hot, the cooling fan may well trip on and stay on after removing the key. This is a heat soak condition and the five minute fan is a built in safety feature.

TC
yes mate the light on my aftermarket gauge.ive installed the probe in the top hose which goes along top of the rad,but to be fair it weren't an expensive gauge.
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Old 26th March 2017, 23:40   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zedhed View Post
I've installed the probe in the top hose which goes along top of the rad
That's OK providing the hose is always completely full of coolant. If an overheat is caused by coolant loss, the top hose is the first to empty. You can see how an overheat in that way may not show much difference on the gauge. For example, when a circulating air bubble passes the standard coolant sensor, the gauge needle can drop and then rise to 'normal' as it passes through the head. This shows how important it is that the probe is always measuring the true head temperature and not hot air.

TC
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Old 27th March 2017, 10:13   #10
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just checked coolant after yesterday and tank is empty.could it possibly been an air lock which cleared?even though the proper procedure was followed last time to clear air?heater on full,run with cap off tank for 15 mins or when fan cuts in.heater was hot and even.so just topped it back up and got it running again to see what happens.
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