Front lower ball joint

[pugcrew]

I've ordered the bush which I shall have tomorrow so any advice on removing the old one and installing the new will be much appreciated.

[Arctic]

[QUOTE=pugcrew;2712428]

Originally Posted by Arctic

Thanks Artic, I have made some progress this afternoon and following Mike24's method I actually managed to get the centre joint out of the subframe. However I did start to try and get the rear of the arm out of the bush and it is stuck firm. I can see that by the time I have got the arm out (if I did indeed manage to do so) I think I will have ruined the rubber in the bush.

Hi Roy.
You can use ring spanners joined together with a sump plug socket, swivel/knuckle sockets, swan neck ratchet spanner any and all help with the bolts. You can also use some tubing to help with more leverage.

[planenut]

As Arctic suggests, provide extra leverage which is what I did at the weekend, a flexible head ring, with a double headed ring and my wheel nut pipe; about three feet of items and prepare yourself, don't pull a muscle.

[pugcrew]

Thanks again for the helpful suggestions.

I've managed to get the rear bolt out using a breaker bar with a flexible head.

But I'm struggling with the front one. I managed to get my 18mm ring spanner on the bolt but it broke when I tried to undo the bolt. I'm hoping that it was the quality of the spanner rather than the tightness of the bolt.

I like the idea of combining two ring spanners together.

I'm off to Halfords to see what I can get.

[Arctic]

Originally Posted by pugcrew

Thanks again for the helpful suggestions.

I've managed to get the rear bolt out using a breaker bar with a flexible head.

But

Hi Roy.
Don't remove the rear bolts completely until you have cracked the front bolt, as that will only had pressure to the front bolt making it harder to crack, best to crack the front one first, as you can see from my photo the front one as been cracked and nearly taken out, hopefully by the time you have read this you will have removed the bush & arm.

[pugcrew]

Originally Posted by Arctic

Hi Roy.
Don't remove the rear bolts completely until you have cracked the front bolt, as that will only had pressure to the front bolt making it harder to crack, best to crack the front one first, as you can see from my photo the front one as been cracked and nearly taken out, hopefully by the time you have read this you will have removed the bush & arm.

I wish I had seen your post earlier, I've done exactly what you have said not to do!

I tackled the rear bolt first as I thought that would be the most difficult. It actually went very well and I thought I was on a roll. However, the front bolt just won't budge.

Your brilliant idea of using two ring spanners meant I was able to get a lot of torque onto the bolt but it refused to move. There was a lot of flexing across the two spanners but it did seem to be giving me a lot more leverage.

I am at a loss of what do do next. Would it help to put the rear bolt back in or have I missed that boat?

I've been soaking the bolt with releasing fluid and have given up for the night so this may assist but I'm not convinced that the fluid will be able to get into the thread given that the bolt has a flange head and is so tight into the subframe.

[roverbarmy]

I found that I could get a socket and long breaker bar on the front bolt from under the front wing to get it started. I could only get about 1/8th of a turn but it was enough to break the rust/grip. The extra room gave me more torque grunt as I could get my weight behind it. (..... and I have plenty of that!)I also had a short spanner which was handy:-

[Arctic]

Originally Posted by pugcrew

I wish I had seen your post earlier, I've done exactly what you have said not to do!

I tackled the rear bolt first as I thought that would be the most difficult. It actually went very well and I thought I was on a roll. However, the front bolt just won't budge.

Your brilliant idea of using two ring spanners meant I was able to get a lot of torque onto the bolt but it refused to move. There was a lot of flexing across the two spanners but it did seem to be giving me a lot more leverage.

I've been soaking the bolt with releasing fluid and have given up for the night so this may assist but I'm not convinced that the fluid will be able to get into the thread given that the bolt has a flange head and is so tight into the subframe.

Hi Roy
Yes try and put the rear bolt back in first nip it up, then try and get to the front bolt either with the car on ramps, or take the wheel off to crack the thread open, once you get it moving a ratchet spanner should be your best tool I am sure tomorrow you will succeed, good luck

[pugcrew]

Artic,

I'll try putting the rear bolt back tomorrow and try to work out something else as well.

Thanks for your confidence!

[Andy_with_a_screwdriver]

I replaced these bushes last October, and had the same trouble getting the bolt out. See thread below:
https://the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/s...d.php?t=289183 &
https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/for...d.php?t=288802

My bolt was badly rusted and wouldn't undo. I was lucky enough to borrow a long 18 mm snap-on ring spanner which I found was easier to manipulate back and forth, whilst giving the extra leverage needed. Try doing up the stubborn bolt just a fraction and getting it to move back and forth.

Be careful not to get injured, smashed knuckles and fingers etc shoulders can get strained. I somehow pulled a muscle in my hip which took about 6 weeks to stop aching