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26th December 2019, 14:40 | #31 | |
I really should get out more.......
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26th December 2019, 16:12 | #32 |
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Yes as mentioned these are very thermally efficient engines and if the heat isn't there to be had then using different thermostats won't help.
Why do you think they fitted fuel burning heaters? They certainly aren't cheap. This was BMW Development's answer when the question was asked in another thread, and it tells you all you need to know: The M47R, as we called the engine, was different to the engine for the 320D. For the Rover (75) and Land Rover (Freelander) application we used the first common rail injection system. I went back into my documentation and have spoken to the "older" colleagues in the development about the "cold" running engine. We have never used different Thermostat during the life span of the entire M47 engine (D and R), so we do not have different thermostats to choose from. We have introduced different thermostats for the late M57D. Anyway, we are sure you cannot change the behaviour of the engine with a different thermostat. At the time when we introduced the direct injection diesel engine we had problems to get the engine to proper working temperature, because it was so efficient. We remember that we had big problems to get enough heat for the passenger compartment heating, therefore we had additional heating. Basically it would not help to get a different thermostat, because the engine will not deliver more heat and therefore the operation temperature of the thermostat does not matter. I assume the cars are mostly driven in cities and will not get too much load on the engines. There is no other way to get the engine to hotter temperatures as to put load on them (faster driving or uphill driving!). Sorry for this disappointing news , but if they want to play with thermostats, then I would recommend that they will take one out of the car and go to a spare part depot and have a look if they can find another one from a different car, which will fit. At that time, the supplier used mostly the same design for different car manufacturer. BMW Group UK Last edited by Mike Noc; 26th December 2019 at 16:16.. |
26th December 2019, 17:38 | #33 |
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If our diesel engines are so good at running cool, why does mine heat up very quickly (within 2 miles and needle at 9o'clock position) and gets so warm inside the cabin that i often have to open the windows? I am not able to monitor the temp using the 19/7 display as i cant seem to get to the 7 bit. After about 20-30mins, there is a noticeable cooling and the cabin doesnt get any warmer with the climate control untouched at 21 Deg. Is my thermostat playing up in my case??
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26th December 2019, 22:22 | #34 | |
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That does seem a very fast warmup time for a diesel, do try and access the obd display and take a reading as you may have a sticking stat (very unusual if you have though)
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26th December 2019, 23:13 | #35 | |
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To verify this, 'feel' the air blowing at the driver's side lower, and the upper vents, then compare to the passenger side lower and upper vents. You should feel; upper drivers side cool, lower drivers side warm, upper passenger side warm, lower passenger side (as well as under seat to rear vents) warm. You can override this, but I cannot recall exactly. Increasing the temperature target is one method, OR, if I recall, switching off the 'auto' and selecting the recirculating mode should do it. ------------------- i would agree your temp rises very quickly, unless you have an operational parking heater. I am guessing you cannot get the 19/7 to work, as you may be selecting the 'on' instead of 'off', or holding the button in too long or too short. It took me a while to get it working.
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27th December 2019, 09:18 | #36 | |
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If you follow the instructions as set out here: https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/for...ad.php?t=55585 -and keep practising, you will soon succeed. The important thing when you're into section 19, is not to delay the first press when the screen shows 'log1-OFF'. You can let the 'Log1-ON' and 'Log1-OFF' cycle for as long as you like, but only press the button while 'Log1-OFF' is showing. Follow that press with regular half secon presses to switch through the numbers, 1-2-3-4-5-6-7 then stop. The Coolant Temperature will then pop on. My bet is the numbers will tally with the heating you report. Remember though, that 'normal' on the gauge means it's 75C or more. You're really lokking for something nearer 90C. TC Last edited by T-Cut; 27th December 2019 at 09:23.. |
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27th December 2019, 10:15 | #37 | |
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I thought the inline simply replaces the work of the non functioning OEM thermostat. In other words the engine will produce and retain enough heat if you have a functioning thermostat. My inline definitely works. I have more heat but it is still too low. Sits at 83c which I think is probably about 10c too low but that is considerably better than the 65c it was sitting at. |
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27th December 2019, 11:27 | #38 |
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Several members have formally reported running temperatures in the 90C area after fitting the recommended type of inline thermostat (not all thermostats are suitable). This clearly indicates the M47R engne will operate at optimal temperatures, without assistanc of a FBH, if the coolant flow is controlled more accurately. The OEM stats fail through a change in the melting characteristics of the wax in the capsule. This causes premature opening of the valve which causes over-cooling. When the OEM stat is cold, there is no flow through the valve.
TC Last edited by T-Cut; 27th December 2019 at 11:29.. |
27th December 2019, 12:06 | #39 | |
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Years ago with diesels you could probably blank off most of the radiator in cold weather and not cause any problems. |
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27th December 2019, 16:00 | #40 | |
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Yes they do Dave - they tend to start opening early, but the thread that post came was about fitting a different thermostat to increase the engine operating temperature, something that was looked at a few years ago. It was bit like War and Peace: https://the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/s...ad.php?t=68468 I've nothing against in line stats but prefer to fit an original item as both the thermostat housings and O ring for the coolant rail can leak over time and will need replacing at some point. Once you have done a few it isn't much of a job. Last edited by Mike Noc; 27th December 2019 at 16:05.. |
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