Overheating (according to gauge) minutes after starting - KV6 - Page 3

SD1too · 14th April 2020, 07:35

Hi Ash,

Thanks for the update. I get the impression that something's still not quite right. You should not have had level variations when you first started the engine since the MGR bleeding/refilling procedure expels any trapped air.

It would be a good idea to record the actual temperatures at which the fan starts and stops. These should be 100 and 96 degrees respectively for a KV6. What is the actual running temperature during driving when the gauge needle is reading just over the mid-position?

What sort of fan have you fitted?

Simon

Frank Beuningen holland · 14th April 2020, 08:24

Quote:

Originally Posted by ashy90

I went out to it again and ran the diagnostic test through the dash so I could read the temperature. Temp read approx 23, started it up (with cap off) and within 20 seconds coolant raised right to the top of the tank,. Put cap back on and went for a drive. By the time it was reading approx 55 the gauge was over half way.

The rad fan is not working. It doesn't come on when set to windscreen or econ off, nor when I disconected the trinary switch and bridged it

Hi i had something with fan the blade was come loose of fan engine
Maybe at yours?

ashy90 · 14th April 2020, 12:50

Quote:

Originally Posted by SD1too

Hi Ash,

Thanks for the update. I get the impression that something's still not quite right. You should not have had level variations when you first started the engine since the MGR bleeding/refilling procedure expels any trapped air.

It would be a good idea to record the actual temperatures at which the fan starts and stops. These should be 100 and 96 degrees respectively for a KV6. What is the actual running temperature during driving when the gauge needle is reading just over the mid-position?

What sort of fan have you fitted?

Simon

Ok, I'll have a look at the temps the fan kicks in.

Unfortunately because its SORN now I cant drive it on the road. My plan was to probably remove the engine to change the cam belts and replace the clutch. I bought this car cheap and saved it from being broken up. Its only done 70k miles. However the clutch is very high and the belts I believe are original.

SD1too · 14th April 2020, 15:58

Quote:

Originally Posted by ashy90

It's only done 70k miles. However ... the belts I believe are original.

When you do that job Ash, make sure that you renew the tensioner pulley and idler pulley (it's not in the official workshop instructions). From my experience, it is they which fail first and are likely to be on the way out at 70,000 miles if original.

Simon

14th April 2020, 07:35	#21
SD1too Doesn't do things by halves Rover 75 2.5 Connoisseur Auto (1999) Dealer launch model. Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Former Middlesex Posts: 20,382 Thanks: 1,587 Thanked 3,749 Times in 3,181 Posts	Hi Ash, Thanks for the update. I get the impression that something's still not quite right. You should not have had level variations when you first started the engine since the MGR bleeding/refilling procedure expels any trapped air. It would be a good idea to record the actual temperatures at which the fan starts and stops. These should be 100 and 96 degrees respectively for a KV6. What is the actual running temperature during driving when the gauge needle is reading just over the mid-position? What sort of fan have you fitted? Simon __________________ "Whatever is rightly done, however humble, is noble." Sir Henry Royce.