Are new coil springs noisy when settling in - Page 2

Ed3 · 2nd July 2022, 15:00

xsport, Looks like you were spot on. When the coil spring snapped the bottom of the spring fell off into the car and I may have lost parts from the bottom of the spring that I did not know existed.

From what you said I looked at the N/S spring and there is much padding at the bottom of the spring so it cant hit the drop link bolt. From Rimmers website

https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-RBC100150
Isolator-spring front suspension - RBC100150 - Genuine MG Rover £17.08p

On my n/s there looks to be more.

But xsport looks like you found the major issue?

xsport · 2nd July 2022, 15:21

Ed is it possible that the shaft on the inner cv joint has come out a little ? it is a used part isnt it. There is a circlip that joins the cv shaft to the joint inside the boot. If this has come out you should feel it extend along the splines. This clip can be knocked back in , but should be renewed , but you can give it a try knocking back in with the shaft straight. one or two direct heavy blows should do it. (protect the shaft end ) ... and if you do undo the boot to inspect make sure you put the boot back on first. otherwise you will have to start all over again.

xsport · 2nd July 2022, 15:31

ED. please make sure you check out my post number 12. before you finish the job. it is highly likely to be correct.

Ed3 · 3rd July 2022, 15:37

I already have the old driveshaft (with damaged support bearing) on the floor and trying to see what the inner cv should be like. The inner cv stretches out a long way but does not go back in all the way it is like a bicycle pump with air trapped in it and it bonces on air. Can't push the shaft from the outer cv into the inner cv all the way in. Is that what the problem will be like when I take the o/s driveshaft off the car?

xsport · 3rd July 2022, 15:59

thats the circlip inside the inner cv joint come out. once the bellow is pulled back you have to separate the two halves , which is normally quite stiff to do. it should press/knock back in if it has come out,but needs a new one really to replace it. this is an ideal time for you to see how it works. keep your gloves on ... its messy ...

Ed3 · 4th July 2022, 13:36

I'm stuck on an embarrassingly daft point. Everything loose but the lower suspension arm is loose in it is place in the hub, - resting half way out but not dropping out of the hub. Even when I use a hammer an block of wood.

I am taking the o/s front strut and driveshaft back off. All bolts and surfaces are clean and greased. Every bolt and nut is off- except the 3 + one at the top of the strut to hold the strut as high as possible. Pinch bolts, drop link steering ball joint are all out/off. Disc and brake caliper are off. I place a scissors jack under the wheel bearing flange (where disc brake goes) to lift the hub high. The lower suspension arm comes half way out of the bottom of the hub high. But then if I hit the lower suspension arm with block of wood and hammer it gives a heavier thud sound as if it will not budge as I am hitting something structural. When it should just fall out. As if the angle is all wrong.

I tried steering the wheel hub full lock to the right but no difference - the lower suspension arm ball joint is loose in the hub, but only wants to come half way out. What have I got wrong?

xsport · 4th July 2022, 14:05

i presume you have the pinch bolt removed from the bottom joint, cos if not it will never come out . it usually works for me to have a long bar under the lower arm attatched with a chain or rope so you can pull it down. i always have the wheel in the straight ahead position and hub supported underneath with a jack.you can then alter the pin angle up or down. i have never had success with the block of wood /hammer method . seems to do more damage than good. if you do do it this way cover the boot on the arm well as they can get damaged easily. you could use a large exhaust u bolt clamp if you have one, instead of a rope/chain if you have one. try to keep the hub pushed well in to the shaft if you can other than that loosen the two large bolts on the bush arm to give you more flex.

Ed3 · 4th July 2022, 20:05

Thanks. I will keep trying. When loosening the two 18mm studs on the arm bush I could feel the extra tension on the thread. Still struggling with trying to get the lower ball joint out looks half way but I have an old one and can see there is still 1cm holding it in.

I tried dropping the strut as Haynes Youtube suggest but there was not the clearance to get the strut down as Haynes here;-
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TrQf...=HaynesManuals

I am thinking your point about the driveshaft CVs getting dislocated inside the boot is the main issue to sort. So I keep trying to get the lower arm ball joint out.

I have a new o/s lower suspension arm here ready to fit but the middle corner ball joint is stuck too much in the subframe. Dropping the car onto the ball joint stud doesn't work so I was thinking of slackening the nut slightly on some occassions when driving

xsport · 4th July 2022, 20:50

have you tried the chain method underneath the arm .. this is the way i do it.if you have a haynes manual theres a picture of it in there . i never try to open the jaws of the clamp in the hub pinch, this is what i think stressed my old hub.it never tightened properly after that, even though i did not over do it. you need to get a long bar to force the pin down from below the arm. have a cuppa and have a think...

xsport · 4th July 2022, 21:33

i dont think you will remove the subframe taper bolt without removing the 2 bush bolts. dropping down on to something wont do alot as the pin is at an angle and does not hit flush anyway. after the bolts are out of the bush and you have the hub supported from underneath the pin should come out if the height of the arm is correct.you say you have a new arm to put on anyway so it needs to come off. once the bottom pin is out you can then use a fork joint separator or a heavy lump hammer to shock it out.

2nd July 2022, 15:21	#12
xsport Posted a thing or two rover 75 club se Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: Leicester Posts: 1,634 Thanks: 358 Thanked 419 Times in 310 Posts	Ed is it possible that the shaft on the inner cv joint has come out a little ? it is a used part isnt it. There is a circlip that joins the cv shaft to the joint inside the boot. If this has come out you should feel it extend along the splines. This clip can be knocked back in , but should be renewed , but you can give it a try knocking back in with the shaft straight. one or two direct heavy blows should do it. (protect the shaft end ) ... and if you do undo the boot to inspect make sure you put the boot back on first. otherwise you will have to start all over again. Last edited by xsport; 2nd July 2022 at 15:33..

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2nd July 2022, 15:00	#11
Ed3 Loves to post Rover 75 CDTi saloon Join Date: Nov 2017 Location: UK Posts: 305 Thanks: 88 Thanked 29 Times in 26 Posts	xsport, Looks like you were spot on. When the coil spring snapped the bottom of the spring fell off into the car and I may have lost parts from the bottom of the spring that I did not know existed. From what you said I looked at the N/S spring and there is much padding at the bottom of the spring so it cant hit the drop link bolt. From Rimmers website https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-RBC100150 Isolator-spring front suspension - RBC100150 - Genuine MG Rover £17.08p On my n/s there looks to be more. But xsport looks like you found the major issue?

2nd July 2022, 15:31	#13
xsport Posted a thing or two rover 75 club se Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: Leicester Posts: 1,634 Thanks: 358 Thanked 419 Times in 310 Posts	ED. please make sure you check out my post number 12. before you finish the job. it is highly likely to be correct.

3rd July 2022, 15:37	#14
Ed3 Loves to post Rover 75 CDTi saloon Join Date: Nov 2017 Location: UK Posts: 305 Thanks: 88 Thanked 29 Times in 26 Posts	I already have the old driveshaft (with damaged support bearing) on the floor and trying to see what the inner cv should be like. The inner cv stretches out a long way but does not go back in all the way it is like a bicycle pump with air trapped in it and it bonces on air. Can't push the shaft from the outer cv into the inner cv all the way in. Is that what the problem will be like when I take the o/s driveshaft off the car?

3rd July 2022, 15:59	#15
xsport Posted a thing or two rover 75 club se Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: Leicester Posts: 1,634 Thanks: 358 Thanked 419 Times in 310 Posts	thats the circlip inside the inner cv joint come out. once the bellow is pulled back you have to separate the two halves , which is normally quite stiff to do. it should press/knock back in if it has come out,but needs a new one really to replace it. this is an ideal time for you to see how it works. keep your gloves on ... its messy ...

4th July 2022, 13:36	#16
Ed3 Loves to post Rover 75 CDTi saloon Join Date: Nov 2017 Location: UK Posts: 305 Thanks: 88 Thanked 29 Times in 26 Posts	I'm stuck on an embarrassingly daft point. Everything loose but the lower suspension arm is loose in it is place in the hub, - resting half way out but not dropping out of the hub. Even when I use a hammer an block of wood. I am taking the o/s front strut and driveshaft back off. All bolts and surfaces are clean and greased. Every bolt and nut is off- except the 3 + one at the top of the strut to hold the strut as high as possible. Pinch bolts, drop link steering ball joint are all out/off. Disc and brake caliper are off. I place a scissors jack under the wheel bearing flange (where disc brake goes) to lift the hub high. The lower suspension arm comes half way out of the bottom of the hub high. But then if I hit the lower suspension arm with block of wood and hammer it gives a heavier thud sound as if it will not budge as I am hitting something structural. When it should just fall out. As if the angle is all wrong. I tried steering the wheel hub full lock to the right but no difference - the lower suspension arm ball joint is loose in the hub, but only wants to come half way out. What have I got wrong?

4th July 2022, 14:05	#17
xsport Posted a thing or two rover 75 club se Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: Leicester Posts: 1,634 Thanks: 358 Thanked 419 Times in 310 Posts	i presume you have the pinch bolt removed from the bottom joint, cos if not it will never come out . it usually works for me to have a long bar under the lower arm attatched with a chain or rope so you can pull it down. i always have the wheel in the straight ahead position and hub supported underneath with a jack.you can then alter the pin angle up or down. i have never had success with the block of wood /hammer method . seems to do more damage than good. if you do do it this way cover the boot on the arm well as they can get damaged easily. you could use a large exhaust u bolt clamp if you have one, instead of a rope/chain if you have one. try to keep the hub pushed well in to the shaft if you can other than that loosen the two large bolts on the bush arm to give you more flex.

4th July 2022, 20:05	#18
Ed3 Loves to post Rover 75 CDTi saloon Join Date: Nov 2017 Location: UK Posts: 305 Thanks: 88 Thanked 29 Times in 26 Posts	Thanks. I will keep trying. When loosening the two 18mm studs on the arm bush I could feel the extra tension on the thread. Still struggling with trying to get the lower ball joint out looks half way but I have an old one and can see there is still 1cm holding it in. I tried dropping the strut as Haynes Youtube suggest but there was not the clearance to get the strut down as Haynes here;- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TrQf...=HaynesManuals I am thinking your point about the driveshaft CVs getting dislocated inside the boot is the main issue to sort. So I keep trying to get the lower arm ball joint out. I have a new o/s lower suspension arm here ready to fit but the middle corner ball joint is stuck too much in the subframe. Dropping the car onto the ball joint stud doesn't work so I was thinking of slackening the nut slightly on some occassions when driving

4th July 2022, 20:50	#19
xsport Posted a thing or two rover 75 club se Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: Leicester Posts: 1,634 Thanks: 358 Thanked 419 Times in 310 Posts	have you tried the chain method underneath the arm .. this is the way i do it.if you have a haynes manual theres a picture of it in there . i never try to open the jaws of the clamp in the hub pinch, this is what i think stressed my old hub.it never tightened properly after that, even though i did not over do it. you need to get a long bar to force the pin down from below the arm. have a cuppa and have a think...

4th July 2022, 21:33	#20
xsport Posted a thing or two rover 75 club se Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: Leicester Posts: 1,634 Thanks: 358 Thanked 419 Times in 310 Posts	i dont think you will remove the subframe taper bolt without removing the 2 bush bolts. dropping down on to something wont do alot as the pin is at an angle and does not hit flush anyway. after the bolts are out of the bush and you have the hub supported from underneath the pin should come out if the height of the arm is correct.you say you have a new arm to put on anyway so it needs to come off. once the bottom pin is out you can then use a fork joint separator or a heavy lump hammer to shock it out.