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Old 23rd July 2022, 19:41   #11
goltho
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Quote:
Originally Posted by macafee2 View Post
Dougie, if you do replace the bearing I'd like to take a look at the old one and what part has failed.
Sure, no probs. I'll hang on to it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by xsport View Post
you may be better buying a new sensor whilst your at it. you may well get away with cleaning the sensor face if your lucky. if not , the odds are stacked against removing the old one without damage. dmgrs does do them,at least they are guaranteed to work and last,unlike some cheapo ebay sensors. actually , when you look at his price for hub and sensor for the rear .. its not too bad at all . i fitted 2 new rears and sensors recently on mine and the bearings are good quality. anyway .. good luck !!
Just posted my last reply above and saw you'd commented about the same thing! I'm happy to have got a great deal with GSF for the hub and also with DMGRS for the sensor. I had initially thought it would cost me the best part of £100 for the parts which is (mainly) why I asked for advice here to narrow it down. Also though, I get a kick out of learning stuff. I can't stand just changing out parts to see if it cures the problem! Nothing usually gets learned apart from the cost of parts!

Dougie.
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Old 23rd July 2022, 20:09   #12
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The new sensor will be a tight fit to get back in anyway.given the age of the backplates you will probably need to clean the sensor bore hole out and again the top mounting area where it has to sit flush for depth. a light dose of rubber grease or similar to aid fitting can help,as you dont want to be hammering in !! some members have trimmed the sensors up to allow fitting but i think its best to clean the bore if possible. some use emery cloth around a drill shank etc or even a round file etc etc. just lube up the bore lightly and extra at the top end of the sensor to keep out moisture. a good clean before to remove any swarf from fettling iron filings , and a magnet may help find loose specs in crevices. im sure once you get in there you will be thinking ... i wish i had ordered a new backplate ...but thats another story, ...
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Old 23rd July 2022, 20:53   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xsport View Post
The new sensor will be a tight fit to get back in anyway.given the age of the backplates you will probably need to clean the sensor bore hole out and again the top mounting area where it has to sit flush for depth. a light dose of rubber grease or similar to aid fitting can help,as you dont want to be hammering in !! some members have trimmed the sensors up to allow fitting but i think its best to clean the bore if possible. some use emery cloth around a drill shank etc or even a round file etc etc. just lube up the bore lightly and extra at the top end of the sensor to keep out moisture. a good clean before to remove any swarf from fettling iron filings , and a magnet may help find loose specs in crevices. im sure once you get in there you will be thinking ... i wish i had ordered a new backplate ...but thats another story, ...
Yep, I've seen how they can be and also the hacks that can be done on the new sensors. Rimmers are only 15 minutes down the road from me so I'll assess the condition of the backplate and replace it if necessary. They're happily not extortionate (also click & collect is a bonus).

Thanks.

Dougie.
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• Built 08/02/2005 @14:57 hrs: Registered 26/08/2005
• 122nd of 141 built that day
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Old 23rd July 2022, 20:55   #14
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Is it easy to remove and fit the parts?
If it is, Dougie you are welcome to pop over and borrow parts from my spare car. The parts need to be refitted as I need to be able to move the car and will want the parts for my cars if the need arises.

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Old 23rd July 2022, 20:58   #15
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Is it easy to remove and fit the parts?
If it is, Dougie you are welcome to pop over and borrow parts from my spare car. The parts need to be refitted as I need to be able to move the car and will want the parts for my cars if the need arises.

macafee2
Thanks for the offer Ian. As above, the new parts are arriving mid-week and I won't start dismantling until they're here. There's a good chance everything's going to break pulling them off so doing the same on your spare car would be double the reason not to.

Dougie.
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R75 C2 RJBLH Connoisseur CDTi Auto Saloon
• Built 08/02/2005 @14:57 hrs: Registered 26/08/2005
• 122nd of 141 built that day
• British Racing Green Pearlescent (HFF)
• Sandstone leather with black piping (SPJ)
• 136,000 miles

Last edited by goltho; 23rd July 2022 at 21:00..
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Old 24th July 2022, 00:19   #16
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Originally Posted by goltho View Post
I've used GSF for many years for different makes & models and without fail have found them excellent for service, quality and when necessary, returns. I'm guessing they may part out old slow stock on eBay - like Rover 75 stuff - so I've bookmarked their eBay store for future reference. Very happy.

I also decided today to order a new sensor (from DMGRS, £17.98 which is - unusually - way cheaper than the usual aftermarket stores) which arrives on the same say as the hub. Reason being that I've ended up with the luggage compartment trim and rear seat stripped out of the Tourer after (finally) accessing the sensor connector & wiring to carry out the test.
Quote:
The hub's coming off too which will expose the business end of the connector nicely, so I figured it's likely to be suffering the usual rust issues too and therefore makes sense to be able to remove it relatively easily when it's all stripped down anyway. Total cost should end up being £45 which gives me the fuzzies.
Hi Dougie.
If the sensor is stuck you will most likely have to drift it out.
1

2

Hopefully your rear plate will not be as bad as this one.
3

Once the sensor is out clean out the hole using a round file or 10mm drill
4

5

Tip un-stake the hub nut and crack it, before taking the disc drum off, with hand brake on, and getting someone to put the foot brake on also.
6

7

8

9

10

11

Remove the torx screw now also.
12

Then through one of the stud holes back of the adjuster, and lower the handbrake, this will help the disc drum come off easy, all you need to do then is remove the caliper etc good luck.




Link to your bearing.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/383813929500
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Old 24th July 2022, 09:03   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Arctic View Post
If the sensor is stuck you will most likely have to drift it out.
Then through one of the stud holes back of the adjuster, and lower the handbrake, this will help the disc drum come off easy, all you need to do then is remove the caliper etc good luck.
Is there anything you've actually not photographed Steve? I'm gonna find the most obscure job on the car (polishing the inside of the Cat in situ whilst cross-checking the temperature of the o/s/r door handle) and ask you for photos. Cheers.

Dougie.
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• Built 08/02/2005 @14:57 hrs: Registered 26/08/2005
• 122nd of 141 built that day
• British Racing Green Pearlescent (HFF)
• Sandstone leather with black piping (SPJ)
• 136,000 miles
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Old 24th July 2022, 09:35   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by goltho View Post
Is there anything you've actually not photographed Steve? I'm gonna find the most obscure job on the car (polishing the inside of the Cat in situ whilst
Quote:
cross-checking the temperature of the o/s/r door handle) and ask you for photos. Cheers.
Dougie.
Only just about touchable early this week
1

2
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Old 24th July 2022, 11:32   #19
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superb pictures arctic. great info for DIY boys. keep up the brilliant work. fantastic and a massive credit to the club. ..
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Old 24th July 2022, 11:59   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Arctic View Post
Hi Dougie.
If the sensor is stuck you will most likely have to drift it out.
1

2

Hopefully your rear plate will not be as bad as this one.
3

Once the sensor is out clean out the hole using a round file or 10mm drill
4

5

Tip un-stake the hub nut and crack it, before taking the disc drum off, with hand brake on, and getting someone to put the foot brake on also.
6

7

8

9

10

11

Remove the torx screw now also.
12

Then through one of the stud holes back of the adjuster, and lower the handbrake, this will help the disc drum come off easy, all you need to do then is remove the caliper etc good luck.




Link to your bearing.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/383813929500



A little tip ref. hub nuts, but only applicable if you are doing both sides, or may have some knocking about from previous jobs.



Use the o/s nut on the n/s and vice versa, this will give you a nice virgin area of metal for the chisel treatment.
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