Alternative solution to rear plate light failure

[Hantsdave]

On my previous 2 75s' I bought new number plate lights (PCBs) but as I'm not earning like I used to I have to make do and mend on my latest CDT.

I've read the how to on here by T-Cut but having removed this light unit twice in the past I didn't want the messy job of removing the adhesive foam.

My solution is to leave the unit on the boot and just remove the plinth, by-pass the PCB by screwing connectors directly onto the brass bulb holders, drill a hole straight through the plastic frame
and in through the boot to feed the new cable through and connect into the original loom -having removed it from the PCB spades.



When drilling the holes for the screws make sure they are high enough to take the screw head, i.e. not tightening against the bottom return. Its a good idea to hold the brass holder as you drill
to stop too much force bending it or damaging its supporting rivet.



I have arrowed where I drilled right through. Once finished you can fill the top hole with silicone or cover it with tape. Where the wires pass through the drilled hole into the boot lid
there is insufficient room to put a rubber grommet so I suggest some silicone to seal it and prevent the wires chafing.



I have removed the plastic insulators from the connectors to make a neater job. They are held in place by very small stainless steel self tappers with minute star washers.
Before anyone mentions it... I did put a nice new bulb in there when I finished!



I joined up the wiring inside the lid by crimping new male spades and connected up to the original femails. I then used heat shrink to hold them together.



Blimey... it works.

It could have cost me £70 at Rimmers, this job only cost me £1.50 for a bag of tiny screws!


Cheers

David.

[Dragrad]

Now included here


Apologies for the delay

[Hantsdave]

Thanks Dragrad

[rich17865]

A very good how to, I only posted up recently that these units now cost double what they did a year ago.

More people than you realise will make use of this, I know I would if I needed to.

[Canonite]

This is a much better option than removing factory adhesive and trying to make it watertight again, and looks like it would cure any further PCB failures thanks to insulated wiring upto the connectors.

[coolasacucumber]

A massive thank you from me for this write up. I replaced the whole unit 6 months ago with a working very good condition second hand one, proud of myself I was too!

But, within 6 weeks, it had gone again.

I didn't want the hassle of the messy sticky foam/adhesive, so for a while had been trying to think of a solution. Then I saw this!

Perfect!

I shall report back in 30 mins/1 hour/this afternoon, depending how it goes, and what else I find that isn't working!

[Roderick]

Hello. having had the dreaded number plate light failure and doing a lot of research on here I decided to have a go at Hantsdave alternative method. Unfortunately it meant buying bits of wire, connectors and screws etc so far totalling over £7 incredibly. Alas it was not easy, a bit of a bodge and regrettably it has not worked. Lights still do not work. I'm now thinking there might be a problem elsewhere. They did work fine, tried replacement bulbs etc, but still get the warning on dash saying bulb failure.
Any thoughts?

[Mike Noc]

Always check the power and return cables before touching the number plate light unit itself. They can and do break in the rubber bellows between the boot and body.

[andrewinpopayan]

Very good modification

I am just waiting for 1 of my olde worlde bulbs to blow and I am putting a pair of ozone friendly, biodiversity safe, CANBUS LED lamps in there.

Done, I used the "search" facility, they are 36mm.

Andrew

[Roderick]

Originally Posted by Mike Noc

Always check the power and return cables before touching the number plate light unit itself. They can and do break in the rubber bellows between the boot and body.

Thanks for that, though perhaps you could explain what rubber belllows are/look like. I can't see anything that might resemble bellows. As a temporary workaround have bought a very cheap LED mini battery powered strip light and gaffer taped it to the underside light housing which worked surprisingly well last night. Meanwhile have spoken to two garages who have all scratched heads!