WIP: Diagnostic Mode - Updated, Clarified and Simplified

[StewartIngram]

Weather is wet and cold today, so I'm not doing anything outside. However, This morning I put about £30 petrol in the tank as I didn't want to run out - I need it to start before it changes to lpg. The needle showed around 3/tank. When I got home, I disconnected the battery for about 3hrs. I've just put it back on; the gauge is still about 3/8 tank.
However, an interesting development in diagnostic mode.
--6,0 = --0NNN (I didn't record the digits), showing petrol in the rhs only?
--6.1 = ------
and then -6.2 --0NNN showing both sensors now ok (but still no dash reading from LH side? [this was 2-6.2 before}

I don't know what to make of that.


As for the ring, I'm not doing any work with that today. However;
1 - No markings on it at all.
2 - DMGRS supplied it (as with the others)
Its been in the freezer 24hrs. I don't think it has shrunk (didn't expect it to) and it looks bigger than 1 of the cut ones, but I haven't tried it in the car.

[SD1too]

Originally Posted by StewartIngram

--6,0 = --0NNN (I didn't record the digits), showing petrol in the rhs only?
--6.1 = ------
and then -6.2 --0NNN showing both sensors now ok (but still no dash reading from LH side? [this was 2-6.2 before}

I don't know what to make of that.

It's normal Stewart. My car is the same and always has been; no reading on test 6.1, and my gauge moves as expected.

Here is an extract from T-Cut's guide to the diagnostic mode (post no. 1 in this thread):

Originally Posted by T-Cut

Firstly, I think the instructions for Section 6 are wrong ... I now believe that the MGR version does not differentiate each sender's output, but simply displays an integral. It may well display a warning that one or both senders are faulty (the 1_6.2, 2_6.2 or 3_6.2 display), but more than that I now have doubts.

Simon

[StewartIngram]

Thanks for that. Just to confirm the car model is a Connie SE, KV6, 53 plate Mk1.
I feel happier now. My main concern is that I have converted to lpg (been on the same system on 3 cars, since 2007, all installed by me the same way). Petrol is only used for starting, and if the lpg is not working for any reason (out of fuel, or a fault?). If I have a tank problem (with fuel low on one side) then petrol is not pciked up (been there before within the last couple of years). At the moment I do have a trace of petrol fumes, the only bit left to check is around the injector rail and that is to be done when I get at the thermostat tomorrow (weather permitting). I'm not sure whether there is a leak or it is a residue from work I have been doing - and I need to be sure! So if I do use it, on lpg, the petrol level shouldn't change, but I was getting the odd results. Yesterday the needle was right on the yellow light, so I put about £30 in - I guess that equates to the level I now have at about 3/8 full? I'm not used to using petrol and the prices! Since the battery reset yesterday, I'm happier, with the 1-6.2 result instead of 2-6.2.
I'm also thinking about a mod, when I know the state of play is right. As part of the lpg conversion, sometimes the fuel supply (from the tank) can be cut off when on lpg. I've never bothered, relying on the petrol injectors being taken out of use. If this mod was done, it would stop the injector rail beeing pressurised as well. I Know others have done it.

[SD1too]

Originally Posted by StewartIngram

Thanks for that ...I feel happier now.

I forgot to mention one other piece of evidence. As you know, the two senders are wired in series with just a single wire to the instrument pack. It is therefore impossible for the diagnostics to determine separate fuel levels in the left and right hand tank cavities. It is supplied only with the sum of the two.

Simon