Front hub nuts - torque question

[macafee2]

I have one or two silverline stuff....... never ever again

macafee2

[Arctic]

Hi Simon.
I had a closer look at the factory crimped clips yesterday while i was sorting out a PS pump.

There is a little tag that is bent over tap this upright .
1

Next pop screwdriver in the end, and the clip opens.
2

On the table so it can be seen clear.
3

4

5

6

these are the same on the drive shaft boot but larger, but with the link Brian as given then maybe always best to use new.

[Daveluck]

Originally Posted by macafee2

I have one or two silverline stuff....... never ever again

macafee2

If it's for spanners and sockets then you've been unlucky. For their spanners and sockets they are not that bad.

Other stuff maybe not.

Besides all the spanners, sockets etc come with a decent ( I want to say " lifetime" but I'm not sure ) guarantee if you register them with silverline.

My 3/4 set above has been well used and frankly abused out in the field on my tractors and implements. So far ( why am I saying this...I tempting fate.) They have handled everything I've thrown at them.

Same for the ring spanners and combinations sets I own. Although I did snap the jaws of a 10mm spanner that just happened to have a 2ft bar on its end. I didn't think it appropriate to claim on the warranty...

[Daveluck]

Originally Posted by Blink

Thanks but I only need these if I decide to buy a 3/4" torque wrench to handle the massive 360Nm required to fit new hub nuts. I haven't reached that stage yet so I'll make a decision later.

Once you go 3/4 you'll never go back to 1/2


You can by 3/4 to 1/2 and 1/2 to 3/4 adaptors. BGS do a nice set.

https://www.amazon.es/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[Blink]

Originally Posted by Daveluck

Once you go 3/4 you'll never go back to 1/2

You can by 3/4 to 1/2 and 1/2 to 3/4 adaptors. BGS do a nice set.

https://www.amazon.es/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I know- that's the problem. I spent a packet on 1/2" sockets last year (Bahco) and can't afford to double up on a 3/4" system. I don't like adapters - they take up too much room and introduce play.

[Blink]

Originally Posted by Arctic

Hi Simon.
I had a closer look at the factory crimped clips yesterday while i was sorting out a PS pump.

There is a little tag that is bent over tap this upright .
1

Next pop screwdriver in the end, and the clip opens.
2

On the table so it can be seen clear.
3

4

5

6

these are the same on the drive shaft boot but larger, but with the link Brian as given then maybe always best to use new.

Excellent - thanks Steve.

[COLVERT]

Originally Posted by Blink

Thanks Brian. Those J&R prices are really good - £12.99 for 2 boots & 2 clips. - I'll definitely go there if I need clips and/or boots. The rain has finally stopped here today so I should able to get back out there and see what's needed.

What makes you say the driveshafts aren't the cause of the violent judder? Surely it has to be either the clutch or the driveshafts/CV joints. I can't think what else there is that would cause a judder that's so violent it can (and has) stopped the engine dead in a flash.

Those kits should supply you with exactly the right amount of Moly grease to go in each boot.

[macafee2]

Originally Posted by Daveluck

Once you go 3/4 you'll never go back to 1/2


You can by 3/4 to 1/2 and 1/2 to 3/4 adaptors. BGS do a nice set.

https://www.amazon.es/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

3/4 is a bit of over kill for less then 24. Only 2 bigger that I think I have undone with 1/2 is 27 and 32. 32 is probably into 3/4 size considering the 350nm torque

macafee2

[Blink]

Originally Posted by marinabrian

It is much more likely to be clutch related, or a damaged gearbox mounting Simon.......especially the former I'd say

Brian

I've always thought it was most likely to be a clutch problem Brian. It even causes trouble when pulling away ordinarily (e.g. in a straight line from traffic lights) - it feels like a flat spot and I usually have to slip it to pull away smoothly.

I was thinking about changing it while the subframe is out of the way but the weight of the gearbox is putting me off. I'm not sure I can take it off on my own without dropping it (no assistant!) and I'm not sure I can lift it back up again and hold it in position while I line everything up properly. The car is only 350mm off the ground at the sill jacking points btw so there's not much room to crawl around easily.


When you say gearbox mounting, do you mean this one?

[Daveluck]

Can you not hire a crane or an over engine support beam? ( Can't remember what the last are actually called, they consist of a bar that spans the bay and the engine and gearbox hangs off it from chains /ropes.

I made one out of a stout piece of timber, a couple of nylon ropes and the timber held above the car on a couple of step Ladders each side of the car.


I also used it with a ratchet tie down to lift the gearbox from the floor to mate with the engine, also to lift / support the sub frame.

A bit ghetto tech but I didn't have anything else to hand.

An engine crane makes it all a bit easier...as I found out the 3rd time I removed the gearbox...