How I Fitted My Croft Door Finishers

Parker · 13th April 2010, 10:31

Us lucky guys & gals who were part of the last bulk buy I think should be receiving their finishers soon, mine came today and here they are:

I used the following two products to attached them, a 2mm thick double sided tape (the type I used is from the glazing industry designed to hold double glazed units in place so it's strong but any good quality tape should do it) and a silicone adhesive (this was a mirror adhesive designed to hold mirrors 6' x 4' easily so again strong) no nails should do the trick.

Firstly I run a strip of the tape around the outer edge and then put a good golf ball sized 'glob' of the adhesive in the centre.

By using the tape and the adhesive it meant that once the finishers were carefully positioned the adhesion on the tape would securely hold them in place whilst the silicone adhesive has time to cure, no need to wedge something behind the door handle to hold the finishers in place waiting for the silicone to go off.

I ensured both the finisher and door were cleaned off in white spirit prior to attaching, then taking the prepared finisher I carefully positioned it to the door (with double sided tape you have one chance to get it right) Once I was happy with the position the finisher was securely pushed against the door, there is no silicone over spill as this gets trapped between the door and finisher and held in place buy the tape. The tape bonds instantly and there you go just sit back enjoy and wait for the silicone adhesive to do it's thing in it's own time. No need to run a bead of silicone around the rim as the tape will stop any water ingress.

Total time about 30 minutes and here are the results:

Disclaimer:
You are responsible for any work or modifications carried out on your car and you undertake any such work at your own risk. Neither the 75 and ZT Owners Club nor the original authors in this thread can be held liable for anything that may happen as a result of you following this thread's posts.
Any modifications should be reported to your insurance company.

wuzerk · 13th April 2010, 20:11

LOWEDB, I have had complete 'Silicon failures ' on THREE 75s! Like you the Silicone had stuck extremely well to the paintwork but NONE of it had adhered to the actual door finishers. After the first car failure I roughed up the backs of the finishers but the result was exactly the same, the finishers could be prised from the doors with a tug of the fingernails. I lost one finisher because it fell off on my drive and the postman trod on it so have bought a fresh set from Crofts. In the meantime I have fitted one unit with double sided tape and two units with a 'Mirror Adhesive' kindly supplied by a fellow member. These three, having been edge sealed with Silicone, appear to be securely stuck. I wonder if there is some problem with Silicone and the metal door finishers as opposed to the original plastic type such as different expansion rates or whatever? I not only roughed up the backs of the finishers but also used surgical spirit and cellulose thinners on them too but they still failed.

Parker · 13th April 2010, 20:40

There was a debate on here a while ago about just using silicone, it was me who supplied the mirror adhesive. Silicone is not an adhesive it will hold things for a while but after time breaks down just like it can peel from the sides of a bath. If an adhesive product is used like mirror adhesive or no nails then hopefully they will stay on, clean them off in white spirit and ensure they are dry, same for the doors.

Mine seem to be stuck like they will go nowhere but I will report on any failures should it happen.

EnEnGee · 19th April 2010, 12:50

As suggested by Crofts, I stuck mine on using No Nails in roll form, bought from the local DIY shop. I used this material to stick my CDT torpedo badges on many moons ago, and they are still there, so it must be fairly permanent.

I cut the material into 4 strips about 8-10mm wide (i.e the 19mm width cut down the middle) x 50-60mm long, and stuck it around the perimeter of the finisher. There is enough flexibility in these strips to follow the shape of the finisher, although the peel off backing comes adrift. I used brake cleaner to ensure the finisher and door concave were grease free.

After checking both cars this morning as I left for work, they are all still there and appear stuck fast.

Very pleased with the result.

billjo · 19th April 2010, 18:03

If you have decided to use silicone sealant, to stick your door finishers to your doors,then only use a high modulus silicone. There are three types, low modulus, mid modulus, and high modulus. Modulus refers to the shear quality of the silicone, if you stick two pieces of glass together, edge to edge and wait untill the silicone cures,? this usually takes 24-48 hours. If you use low modulus you will be able to pull the glass apart easilly, mid modulus will be more difficult,high modulus will be extremely difficult, if not impossible. If you want to certain that they will not come off, use aquarium silicone sealant. I have seen some truly enormous aquariums holding tens of thousands of gallons of water, think of the pressure on those pieces of glass and they are only held together by slicone sealant. I hope this helps. cheers Bill

13th April 2010, 10:31	#1
Parker This is my second home Jaguar XJ 3.0 V6 Auto (X350) & Hyundai Tuscon 2020 Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Bridgend Posts: 10,342 Thanks: 69 Thanked 559 Times in 356 Posts	How I Fitted My Croft Door Finishers Us lucky guys & gals who were part of the last bulk buy I think should be receiving their finishers soon, mine came today and here they are: I used the following two products to attached them, a 2mm thick double sided tape (the type I used is from the glazing industry designed to hold double glazed units in place so it's strong but any good quality tape should do it) and a silicone adhesive (this was a mirror adhesive designed to hold mirrors 6' x 4' easily so again strong) no nails should do the trick. Firstly I run a strip of the tape around the outer edge and then put a good golf ball sized 'glob' of the adhesive in the centre. By using the tape and the adhesive it meant that once the finishers were carefully positioned the adhesion on the tape would securely hold them in place whilst the silicone adhesive has time to cure, no need to wedge something behind the door handle to hold the finishers in place waiting for the silicone to go off. I ensured both the finisher and door were cleaned off in white spirit prior to attaching, then taking the prepared finisher I carefully positioned it to the door (with double sided tape you have one chance to get it right) Once I was happy with the position the finisher was securely pushed against the door, there is no silicone over spill as this gets trapped between the door and finisher and held in place buy the tape. The tape bonds instantly and there you go just sit back enjoy and wait for the silicone adhesive to do it's thing in it's own time. No need to run a bead of silicone around the rim as the tape will stop any water ingress. Total time about 30 minutes and here are the results: *Disclaimer:* You are responsible for any work or modifications carried out on your car and you undertake any such work at your own risk. Neither the 75 and ZT Owners Club nor the original authors in this thread can be held liable for anything that may happen as a result of you following this thread's posts. Any modifications should be reported to your insurance company. __________________ http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...a585a72d1c.jpg "The only thing to do with good advice is pass it on. It is never any use to oneself" SOME VERY USEFUL LINKS SIMPLE DOOR MIRROR REPAIR FITTING CROFT DOOR FINISHERS FORUM RULES CLUB SHOP

13th April 2010, 20:11	#2
wuzerk Passed Away Rover 75 CDT 03 auto Conn. SE Join Date: May 2009 Location: London Posts: 2,885 Thanks: 104 Thanked 254 Times in 204 Posts	Silicone Failure LOWEDB, I have had complete 'Silicon failures ' on THREE 75s! Like you the Silicone had stuck extremely well to the paintwork but NONE of it had adhered to the actual door finishers. After the first car failure I roughed up the backs of the finishers but the result was exactly the same, the finishers could be prised from the doors with a tug of the fingernails. I lost one finisher because it fell off on my drive and the postman trod on it so have bought a fresh set from Crofts. In the meantime I have fitted one unit with double sided tape and two units with a 'Mirror Adhesive' kindly supplied by a fellow member. These three, having been edge sealed with Silicone, appear to be securely stuck. I wonder if there is some problem with Silicone and the metal door finishers as opposed to the original plastic type such as different expansion rates or whatever? I not only roughed up the backs of the finishers but also used surgical spirit and cellulose thinners on them too but they still failed.

13th April 2010, 20:40	#3
Parker This is my second home Jaguar XJ 3.0 V6 Auto (X350) & Hyundai Tuscon 2020 Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Bridgend Posts: 10,342 Thanks: 69 Thanked 559 Times in 356 Posts	There was a debate on here a while ago about just using silicone, it was me who supplied the mirror adhesive. Silicone is not an adhesive it will hold things for a while but after time breaks down just like it can peel from the sides of a bath. If an adhesive product is used like mirror adhesive or no nails then hopefully they will stay on, clean them off in white spirit and ensure they are dry, same for the doors. Mine seem to be stuck like they will go nowhere but I will report on any failures should it happen. __________________ http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...a585a72d1c.jpg "The only thing to do with good advice is pass it on. It is never any use to oneself" SOME VERY USEFUL LINKS SIMPLE DOOR MIRROR REPAIR FITTING CROFT DOOR FINISHERS FORUM RULES CLUB SHOP

19th April 2010, 18:03	#5
billjo Passed Away Rover 75 tourer club se Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Lancashire Posts: 80 Thanks: 0 Thanked 5 Times in 5 Posts	Door finishers If you have decided to use silicone sealant, to stick your door finishers to your doors,then only use a high modulus silicone. There are three types, low modulus, mid modulus, and high modulus. Modulus refers to the shear quality of the silicone, if you stick two pieces of glass together, edge to edge and wait untill the silicone cures,? this usually takes 24-48 hours. If you use low modulus you will be able to pull the glass apart easilly, mid modulus will be more difficult,high modulus will be extremely difficult, if not impossible. If you want to certain that they will not come off, use aquarium silicone sealant. I have seen some truly enormous aquariums holding tens of thousands of gallons of water, think of the pressure on those pieces of glass and they are only held together by slicone sealant. I hope this helps. cheers Bill

19th April 2010, 12:50	#4
EnEnGee Posted a thing or two CDT Tourer (SORN) & 2.0 V6 Saloon Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Sittingbourne Posts: 1,058 Thanks: 2 Thanked 11 Times in 8 Posts	As suggested by Crofts, I stuck mine on using No Nails in roll form, bought from the local DIY shop. I used this material to stick my CDT torpedo badges on many moons ago, and they are still there, so it must be fairly permanent. I cut the material into 4 strips about 8-10mm wide (i.e the 19mm width cut down the middle) x 50-60mm long, and stuck it around the perimeter of the finisher. There is enough flexibility in these strips to follow the shape of the finisher, although the peel off backing comes adrift. I used brake cleaner to ensure the finisher and door concave were grease free. After checking both cars this morning as I left for work, they are all still there and appear stuck fast. Very pleased with the result.