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9th September 2016, 09:05 | #11 |
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Is the K&N filter a oil one there is a school of thought that can contaminate the MAF. You may have contaminated the spare one as well. Is the new one coming from Germany via E-Bay MAF Shop. Original Bosch in BMW housing. Was around £75, maybe £85 now.
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9th September 2016, 09:44 | #12 |
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Thanks for that, Peter, I hadn't heard that one. It is an oil one but since it's a bit 2nd hand, I haven't re-oiled it.
I'm too mean to spend £55 on an air filter! Once the new MAF arrives I'll blow £5 on a Britpart filter, after all they're nearly next door! Mick |
9th September 2016, 10:14 | #13 |
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follow the vac hose to the front of the engine...it connects to the solenoid
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30th September 2016, 05:59 | #14 |
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Hello, keep us posted please, regarding the new MAF, I experience the same. The EGR has the vacuum pipe disconnected and blinded, for the rest is stock, and intercooler Viton rings are done. Once I disconnected the MAF but the outcome was horendous, serious power cuts when accelerating medium/hard, leaving me with more questions than before.
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30th September 2016, 06:51 | #15 |
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Turbo-lag
If you have a lot of sooty/oily deposits around the turbo duct then that indicates that the sealing 'O'-ring has failed. Contact Jules for a superior oil-resistant ring. I used to suffer a breathless asthmatic wheeze sometimes when joining traffic on a roundabout, but no longer since Jules upgraded the seal.
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30th September 2016, 12:54 | #16 | |
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PS don't use air filters other than good quality paper type, the oiled reusable versions are expensive to buy, add nothing to performance or fuel figures and in the case of the diesel will probably contaminate the MAF sensor, an expensive proposition, good luck. PPS Exactly how did you clean the MAP sensor, as this might have a bearing on things.? |
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30th September 2016, 13:01 | #17 |
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A cheap air filter will quickly goose the MAF sensor, so be careful.!
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30th September 2016, 21:47 | #18 | |
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Need a T4 ?: T4 Owners Map thanks to Stevestrat ( use at your own risk) Where?: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tanelorn Mods/Retrofits: PCV vortex 'filter'; bluetooth; inline thermostat; reversing sensors; plenum spyhole ; headlamp washers ; Diy mp3 player replacing CD multichanger; FBH with remote; Headlamp washers; black/chrome front grille, rear blind; Xenon projectors To do: puddle lights; 2 Din cd/nav to fit; boot release button |
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30th September 2016, 23:34 | #19 |
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Thanks for the input everyone.
I don't expect multi-G acceleration from low speed in higher gears, but I would like the same low speed power that my Tourer has, which will accelerate happily in top gear from 30 upwards with no dips in the power and no hesitation. It's a smooth as a smooth thing! I don't know if I've been lucky with the Tourer but at 150,000 miles it still pulls like a train, just not as fast a train as the saloon. It's strange how the dip in the power seemed to coincide with the air filter change. I've swapped MAFs with the 2 cars and there's no difference in the behaviour of either of them and I've checked the airflow figures, so it's not the MAF. I'll just have to get it T4ed. Mick |
1st October 2016, 00:10 | #20 | |
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I have a ZTT cdt and Ive noticed a huge difference cutting away the air pipe. even after service etc. I noticed now and again my power would blip or even die depending on the wind. I read that either putting a bolt( i.e. screwing in one) into the air channel at the bumper side fixes this or a quick fix cut the channel. As per the pics I did this. Not OEM and not advisable but you may have an air issue which is why the responses for a suspect MAF. Try unhooking your air channel to the filter and see what happens. I cut mine solely because the 3 screws on the bonnet side refused to come out and Id have destroyed the bumper getting them out. Good news is I need not worry as I need a new one(bumper) after an encounter with a pheasant so my cutting has cost me not.
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