Coolant Bleeding problem on KV6

[TourerSteve]

But could there be a blockage in the coolant side of the cooler ( maybe caused by k seal for example). Bypassing the cooler will remove blockage and provide a clear hose.

Does that make sense?

Paul[/QUOTE]


Following T cuts advice can eliminate the cooler from your list of potential problems
He is asking you to bypass the cooler for that reason to check the cooler for a blockage
Oil and water are in two separate jackets
Unless your cooler leaking internally once drained your cooler can just sit empty while you carry out your test for overheating .
If oil runs out of it while the engine is running during the test your oil cooler has failed internally

[paulh260260]

Originally Posted by TourerSteve

But could there be a blockage in the coolant side of the cooler ( maybe caused by k seal for example). Bypassing the cooler will remove blockage and provide a clear hose.

Does that make sense?

Paul

Following T cuts advice can eliminate the cooler from your list of potential problems
He is asking you to bypass the cooler for that reason to check the cooler for a blockage
Oil and water are in two separate jackets
Unless your cooler leaking internally once drained your cooler can just sit empty while you carry out your test for overheating .
If oil runs out of it while the engine is running during the test your oil cooler has failed internally[/QUOTE]


Thanks Steve

So provided there is no oil seepage when I remove the coolant hoses I can just connect them together and leave the oil cooler alone ( until I reconnect obviously)

Paul

[SD1too]

Originally Posted by paulh260260

But could there be a blockage in the coolant side of the cooler ( maybe caused by k seal for example).

If there is, you'll see it when you disconnect the two hoses from the cooler.

It's going to be a fine and dry bank holiday weekend so make a start today! There is much to gain by dismantling and looking.

Simon

[paulh260260]

Originally Posted by SD1too

If there is, you'll see it when you disconnect the two hoses from the cooler.

It's going to be a fine and dry bank holiday weekend so make a start today! There is much to gain by dismantling and looking.

Simon

Great minds think alike Simon, I've just crawled out from under the car and the good news is the Oil cooler is the version on the front of the engine, so easy to access the coolant pipes.

Still need to know how to connect them as the bore is narrower than the top and bottom hoses which TCut referred to as 32mm... the outside circumference is about 75mm so that means the internal diameter should be a maximum of 23mm.

As we've solved the actual bleeding issue which started this post I'm going to create a new post just for the bypass in the hope that somebody somewhere can advise what i need

Cheers


Paul

[bl52krz]

Originally Posted by T-Cut

If all else fails, use MGR's default Workshop method of pre-evacuation. This removes all air from the empty system then sucks in the fresh coolant so every nook and cranny is full. It's guaranteed to refill any cooling system airlock free, no matter how convoluted. No bleed screws, no tank lifting and no hassle. It can easily be done using the popular Pela type oil pump and a rubber bung. Heck, there's even a HowTo on it: https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/for...ad.php?t=41864

I used this method for my very first coolant change and recommend it for anyone finding 'standard' proceedure a hit'n'miss affair. But the 1.8T is so easy I don't bother now, with the Pela, Haynes or MGR. Mine simply burps like a baby.

TC

The vacuum method was used by Lates600 when I had my timing belts changed by him last year. Had no probs with it since and water at same level bottom of header tank marks on the bottom.