Clutch pedal straight to floor - Page 3

macafee2 · 2nd July 2022, 05:44

Quote:

Originally Posted by larryr123

Ed, When replacing the driveshaft seal, did you completely remove the driveshaft from the car, or did you leave the shaft connected at the hub end?
Was it easy to remove the seal, and was it obvious that the existing seal was damaged when looking at it?

Regards Larry

Seal is easy to remove, put a screwdriver in the hole and lever it out. Careful not to scrape the casing with the screwdriver.
I could not tell if my seals were damaged, I just changed them as the drive shafts had been out and they were probably the original seals. My driveshaft's were completely removed. Probably easier not to have them connected to the hub.

macafee2

Ed3 · 2nd July 2022, 11:46

I was replacing a coil spring and finding many other faults at the same time so that the o/s strut, hub and driveshaft were off the car.

The o/s driveshaft has a loose dust cover (with a tight enough fit to work) that hangs over the driveshaft/diff seal. When the driveshaft comes out and takes away that dust cover you then see there is a large inner lip on the seal. I put a large screwdriver end into the lip and the shaft of the screwdriver against the diff casing and the seal falls out very easily.

but a big issue for me was to get the hub off first need to get the pinch bolt out - which often snap seized in place. It can easily turn into a project with many issues

Forgot - an issue with taking out driveshaft is to first check it is possible to undo the filler plug for gearbox oil or else can't refill the gearbox with oil afterwards. It took me session with a torx bit (T50?) into sturdy socket bars using "bendy/flexible" extensions from the n/s with the wheel off. I freed the drain and filler plugs as preparation.

larryr123 · 4th July 2022, 08:58

Jacked the car up and looked at the areas around the drive shafts, both offside and nearside and its not obvious that these are the areas that are leaking.
Not sure I want to start stripping the drive shafts off until I get a better diagnosis that these are actually the problem.

I also have a power steering leak that has gotten a lot worse and the steering when turned lock to lock is making a whining noise.
The pump I guess will need to be replaced or reconditioned.

Oh Joy -- Anyone local to Bedford who wants to earn a days wage to help me a) diagnose the problem on the gearbox oil leak, assuming that is what it is, and b) do the power steering pump, as this looks like a two man job with the drive belt removal and replacement.

Regards Larry -- Sad that the old girl is still off the road.

Ed3 · 4th July 2022, 10:24

On my 75 the power steering was leaking from the flexible part of the return pipe as it comes of the steering rack. The flexible part of the pipe became porous as much use as the sleeve on a woolly jumper I took the return pipe off and a hydraulic workshop replaced the flexible section.

larryr123 · 4th July 2022, 11:29

Ed, On mine it looks like the body of the pump on the right side is all wet so possibly the gaskets in the pump have gone.
I'm less inclined to start this job until I've diagnosed the gear box oil leak (if that is what it is).

All a bit stuck at the moment I'm afraid.

Regards Larry

larryr123 · 5th July 2022, 15:37

OK - Went against what I said before and I've just stripped the power steering pump off the car with few curses along the way.
You start to realise that this BMW engine was not designed for transverse installation when it comes to the level of access to pulleys and belts and extra long bolts - ridiculously long (2 of) on the pump body.

Anyhow all off and cleaned up - anybody got a refurbed pump they want to sell?

The reference numbers on the label read :-
QVB 000 330
MG Rover
2611 10583 MH

Regards Larry

2nd July 2022, 11:46	#22
Ed3 Loves to post Rover 75 CDTi saloon Join Date: Nov 2017 Location: UK Posts: 305 Thanks: 88 Thanked 29 Times in 26 Posts	I was replacing a coil spring and finding many other faults at the same time so that the o/s strut, hub and driveshaft were off the car. The o/s driveshaft has a loose dust cover (with a tight enough fit to work) that hangs over the driveshaft/diff seal. When the driveshaft comes out and takes away that dust cover you then see there is a large inner lip on the seal. I put a large screwdriver end into the lip and the shaft of the screwdriver against the diff casing and the seal falls out very easily. but a big issue for me was to get the hub off first need to get the pinch bolt out - which often snap seized in place. It can easily turn into a project with many issues Forgot - an issue with taking out driveshaft is to first check it is possible to undo the filler plug for gearbox oil or else can't refill the gearbox with oil afterwards. It took me session with a torx bit (T50?) into sturdy socket bars using "bendy/flexible" extensions from the n/s with the wheel off. I freed the drain and filler plugs as preparation. Last edited by Ed3; 2nd July 2022 at 13:29..

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4th July 2022, 08:58	#23
larryr123 Avid contributor MG ZT-T Join Date: Aug 2016 Location: larryr123 - Biddenham, Bedfordshire Posts: 224 Thanks: 27 Thanked 19 Times in 17 Posts	Jacked the car up and looked at the areas around the drive shafts, both offside and nearside and its not obvious that these are the areas that are leaking. Not sure I want to start stripping the drive shafts off until I get a better diagnosis that these are actually the problem. I also have a power steering leak that has gotten a lot worse and the steering when turned lock to lock is making a whining noise. The pump I guess will need to be replaced or reconditioned. Oh Joy -- Anyone local to Bedford who wants to earn a days wage to help me a) diagnose the problem on the gearbox oil leak, assuming that is what it is, and b) do the power steering pump, as this looks like a two man job with the drive belt removal and replacement. Regards Larry -- Sad that the old girl is still off the road.

4th July 2022, 10:24	#24
Ed3 Loves to post Rover 75 CDTi saloon Join Date: Nov 2017 Location: UK Posts: 305 Thanks: 88 Thanked 29 Times in 26 Posts	On my 75 the power steering was leaking from the flexible part of the return pipe as it comes of the steering rack. The flexible part of the pipe became porous as much use as the sleeve on a woolly jumper I took the return pipe off and a hydraulic workshop replaced the flexible section.

4th July 2022, 11:29	#25
larryr123 Avid contributor MG ZT-T Join Date: Aug 2016 Location: larryr123 - Biddenham, Bedfordshire Posts: 224 Thanks: 27 Thanked 19 Times in 17 Posts	Ed, On mine it looks like the body of the pump on the right side is all wet so possibly the gaskets in the pump have gone. I'm less inclined to start this job until I've diagnosed the gear box oil leak (if that is what it is). All a bit stuck at the moment I'm afraid. Regards Larry

5th July 2022, 15:37	#26
larryr123 Avid contributor MG ZT-T Join Date: Aug 2016 Location: larryr123 - Biddenham, Bedfordshire Posts: 224 Thanks: 27 Thanked 19 Times in 17 Posts	OK - Went against what I said before and I've just stripped the power steering pump off the car with few curses along the way. You start to realise that this BMW engine was not designed for transverse installation when it comes to the level of access to pulleys and belts and extra long bolts - ridiculously long (2 of) on the pump body. Anyhow all off and cleaned up - anybody got a refurbed pump they want to sell? The reference numbers on the label read :- QVB 000 330 MG Rover 2611 10583 MH Regards Larry