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29th April 2018, 06:08 | #1 |
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MG ZT 160+ Join Date: Jul 2015
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Front bumper removal
Hi all. How easy it looks on You Tube etc. to remove the 10 screws underneath the bumper in order to remove it. Three of mine have a rounded hole where the Phillips should fit and the other seven are immobile inspite of squirting, straining and swearing. Any ideas gratefully received. Many thanks. PS. It's a MG ZT160.
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29th April 2018, 06:49 | #2 |
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If any help, with my ZT-T I leave the phillips screws in place which are fixed through the painted underside of the bumper. These are the screws that hold the addional piece of black trim in place between the bumper and undertray.
I only undo the undertray fixings which are fixed through the addional piece of black plastic trim along the front edge as mentioned above. |
29th April 2018, 07:06 | #3 |
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Bumper removal
As Nev has mentioned leave the 10 bolts along the front alone, you wont get them out. you need to remove the three Philips screws on each side holding the brake plastic brake duct, and the four large screws holding the undertray on, then remove the two screws on each side inside the wheel arch, and also the 10mm two bolts (feel up inside the wheel arch) and, then remove the nine bolts on the top slam panel, and when they are removed you need to pull the bumper on each side to remove it. I always leave the middle bolt on the slam panel until it has been separated from the wing, then remove that bolt.
Also suggest that you put some masking tape on the front wing above the bumper to stop it scratching And lastly soak the screws with some plus gas, as they will have corroded Stu Last edited by Fusilier; 29th April 2018 at 07:10.. |
29th April 2018, 08:15 | #4 | |
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Quote:
Every day is a school day as they say . Cliff
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29th April 2018, 08:20 | #5 | |
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Quote:
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29th April 2018, 15:28 | #6 |
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I would say it is the Phillips screws that can be a cow to remove, not the ones along the centre of the underside bottom of the bumper.
If seized a screw driver may just round the heads of the Phillips screws off. I have had great success using a good quality pair of these, this link is just to show the type https://www.orbitalfasteners.co.uk/e...IaArUmEALw_wcB Do them up as tight as you can on the head of the screw and undo. Does not work every time but has done quite a few macafee2 |
29th April 2018, 15:46 | #7 |
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[QUOTE=davidos462;2624876]. Any ideas gratefully received. [/QUOT
The YouTube video isn't directly applicable to the ZT, which has a different arrangement at the bottom edge. The bumper is narrower at the bottom and uses a separate 'filler' piece. TC |
29th April 2018, 16:00 | #8 |
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Bumper removal
Not sure how to thank you all individually (I.T. eh!) so thank you all as a group. Thank you
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29th April 2018, 16:15 | #9 |
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27th July 2022, 10:33 | #10 |
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MG ZT 260 #442 in XPower Grey Join Date: Mar 2022
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Just took the bumper off to change the air filter on my V8, there were a few things I'd not read or seen on various picture so for posterity here are my thoughts! Not sure how much is V8 specific other than the air filter location.
1. Getting the bumper off - It does come off really easily, but make sure it's the screws (4 'one turn' at the front, 3 self tappers either side) in the recess behind the lower part of the bumper you undo, not the ones bolting the flexible air dam on... Leave the central upper bolt in but loose until you're ready to pull the bumper off. Cover the front end of the wings with masking tape / cloth to prevent the bumper ends springing up and damaging the paintwork. Give the ends of the bumper under the front wings a sharp tug, perhaps a tad firmer than you feel is right! Pull the bumper away from the car. No need to disconnect the electrics unless you're doing more work. 2. Getting the air filter (V8 specific I think) out - Undo the spring clip at the bottom, undo the two bolts holding the filter housing to the body (never saw this bit mentioned anywhere) and wiggle the housing out with the air entry funnel at the top (which goes up over the wheel) attached, I had taken the funnel off by this point however. 3. Remove the old filter from the housing and put your nice shiny new one in. Enjoy this bit as it's the part that takes as long as the whole process on most cars! :-) 4. Wiggle the filter housing (with funnel attached) back in, do up the spring clip making sure the upper and bottom pieces of the housing are clamped together 5. Put the bumper back on - the worst bit! Simply put - getting it back on is a reverse of taking it off. If only it were that easy! While you're there insert some washers under the upper bolts to reduce the bumper / bonnet gap if it's particularly large or you don't like it. The worst part was getting the bottom screws back in - the four 'one turn' screws were OK but the the self tappers into the relatively flexible corner undertray pieces was a nightmare, especially the one under the air filter as that gets moved about as you get the filter out. All I can suggest is perseverance and do the one at either end of each corner before the screw in the middle, and (in hindsight) make sure they're as straight and level as possible before you offer the bumper back up. Once the bumper's approximately in place put the upper central bolt in while you fiddle around with the other bolts / screws. Make sure the yellow pip is engaged at the front of each wing and the bumper sides are engage under the front wings. Then insert the other bolts & screws and tighten everything up.
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