CDT - loud rattle

[frankgoldstar]

Dear all,

my CDT, which I have only had for 3k miles (it is on 140+) has suddenly developed a very loud rattle from the offside (drivers) end of the engine - i.e. where the aux drive pulleys are.

It had been a bit rattly, like a london taxi cab sound ish at times, but this is so loud and sudden it has me worried.

The noise, and a bit of vibration, are very evident at tickover, but completely disappear around a thousand revs, and the motor then sounds as quiet and smooth as could be.

From reading some of the posts, I assumed initially that this could be a drive pulley problem, as there was a rattling sound very reminiscent of a sheet steel idler pulley with a goosed bearing on my old ford when I started the CDT in the sub-zero temperatures we had this morning.

One of the posts talks about spraying a pulley with water, and if it is a vibration damper type of pulley on the way out, this should shut it up for a short while.

Which pulley should I spray, the crankshaft drive pulley?

Looking at the pulleys (well as much as one could see in the dark with a flashlight) I could see no evidence of a mechanical problem, so a method of fault finding like the water spray would be a great help.

Should the car be driven with this noise, bearing in mind it only occurs at tickover, or is it likley to lead to more damage.

All thoughts/suggestions appreciated.

Best regards, Frank

[billnick]

mines the same Frank, garage has checked the crankshaft pulley and said it was ok, they said it might be something to do with power steering pump but this was a new one fitted last year, so I am no further forward, its worse when its cold, I will just let it develope a bit more i think, let us know the outcome of your findings please.

bill.

[frankgoldstar]

Dear Billnick,

I will have to see how I go on.

After looking at all the posts I could find on issues that seem related, it seems that changing the crankshaft pulley and also the lower engine mount or tie-rod is a no brainer anyway.

However, this is probably a no-no at the instant due to work.

The weather does not help as it is literally impossible to look at the car in the street at the moment due to the snow on the ground.

I have an oil/filter service due this weeekend, but have to get to work toomorrow, and then get back on Saturday to use my works heated engineering workshop to do the work needed.

Let me hope that the crank pulley and/or the engine mount do not self-destruct until I can get at them.

One way or the other, I will let you know what I find, but this wonderful website, and the great people who contribute so many informed postings have already made up my mind that I need to change both crankshaft pulley and engine mount/ tie-bar regardless.

the only problems are the usual ones:

How to do this in the current weather - answer - use the workshop - if I can get there!

Obtain/pay for the bits - whine!

Snivel. only got 3k miles of lovely trouble free motoring out of a motor with 140k on the clock for not a lot of money, and I need to work out some problems with the car.

Whatever happened to the British motor industry?

What an irony. Rover get it right when it is all too late.

Reminds me why my BSA motorcycle does not have a current grandchild.


Best wishes, Frank

[bucko121]

hello boys i had same problem its the crankshaft pulley
the rubber had perished you cant see this by looking at it straight on
the best price for this is ebay about £150.00
you can get the part from landrover freelander td4 or rover stockinsts
at £229.00 you are make sure you change the drive belts as well
at about £20.00 the pair
it can be changed on your drive but it will need 2 of you to fit the belts
if i can help send me an email cheers

[cb2lou]

i had a problem started the car one morning just before xmas and it made noises as though there were ice in the block but looking at threads there is numerous problems and i had flat battery about two weeks before xmas,just clicking when turn key as in threads,>>but no headlights flashing as some threads suggest, for having flat battery anyway charged battery did 200 mile just over round trip and had car stood for two days at home after went to go work click click no start put battery charger on for 2 hours fire away it went two days later same again but after the 200 mile run noise went and gone and the noise come to think about i heard it a few days before so just hoping snd praying my dad has got same car with clutch slipping god help him?

[frankgoldstar]

Dear Bucko,

I have the car in bits at the moment, and it was very easy to spot the clapped out pulley.

The rubber part appears to have completely disintegrated, and the pulley is only driving due to the two steel ears on the rim.

This makes a horrendous noise, but sounds worse than it actually is.

I was offered and got a 3 series BMW crankshaft pulley, but the stepped belt drive arrangement is reversed, so it will not fit.

However it should be handy to use to make a holding tool to do the replacement.

One question I did have for the knowledgeable on the site was the torque values to use on the holding bolt.

I read one thread where (from memory) there was a four stage bolting up proceedure, and it was summat like this:

1. 100ft/lbs
2. 60 degrees
3. 60 degrees
4. 60 degrees

Now this may be right, but it does sound like the spoof instruction "tight as you can and three full turns"

If any body actually knows what the drill is, or can point us newbies in the right direction, I personally would be most grateful, as I am sure all greenhorns would be.

Best wishes, Frank

[bl52krz]

Originally Posted by frankgoldstar

Dear Bucko,

I have the car in bits at the moment, and it was very easy to spot the clapped out pulley.

The rubber part appears to have completely disintegrated, and the pulley is only driving due to the two steel ears on the rim.

This makes a horrendous noise, but sounds worse than it actually is.

I was offered and got a 3 series BMW crankshaft pulley, but the stepped belt drive arrangement is reversed, so it will not fit.

However it should be handy to use to make a holding tool to do the replacement.

One question I did have for the knowledgeable on the site was the torque values to use on the holding bolt.

I read one thread where (from memory) there was a four stage bolting up proceedure, and it was summat like this:

1. 100ft/lbs
2. 60 degrees
3. 60 degrees
4. 60 degrees

Now this may be right, but it does sound like the spoof instruction "tight as you can and three full turns"

If any body actually knows what the drill is, or can point us newbies in the right direction, I personally would be most grateful, as I am sure all greenhorns would be.

Best wishes, Frank

hi frankgoldstar the correct torque for the crank on the diesel is:
100nm.....74lb 1st stage.
then angle tighten 60deg 2nd stage
60 deg 3rd stage
30 deg 4th stage
all from the good old haynes manual.