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Old 20th April 2010, 16:42   #1
Jenks
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Unhappy rover 75 cdti 2006 manual gear / clutch problem ?

Hi, I struggled for a couple of weeks changing gear on the odd occasion - then it got worse. I cant make out if its a clutch or gear problem and the chap ive had out to look at it needs to research the problem. Looking at the site it could be a number of things... Is is likely to be a minor or major problem - the car is a new one to us and we need it for business purposes.Id be grateful for any advice on offer. It still works OK - but now wont go into reverse unless the engine is off.... so weve grounded it until a solution can be sourced.
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Old 20th April 2010, 16:57   #2
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Hi it sounds to me like it's new clutch time I'm sorry to say, not cheap, not cheap at all, they recommend you change the flywheel at the same time, I didn't when I did mine, it's around £350 just for the flywheel, I don't know how handy you are with a spanner but if you need the car for business use then I guess you don't fancy being under the car over the weekend, do sadly I believe you're heading for a bill of around £1k to £1200, not good I'm afraid
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Old 20th April 2010, 17:26   #3
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Don't believe everything you read!!! tomorrow, my 75 is in the garage for a new gearbox, clutch, flywheel and slave, all for £640 including the parts

The clutch you can buy yourself, I did, new, with the slave and the total was £189, and the garage fitting would have cost £190, so it doesn't have to cost the earth!! (and the clutch and slave have a 2 year/unlimited mileage warranty on them)

As for the flywheel, the only reason I am changing mine is I was sold one for £60 with only 15000 miles under it's belt, the one on the car is original with 134000 miles under it's belt!! any competent garage can test the flywheel to see if it's OK, the "change it with every clutch" comments are just myth in reality, and very few ever need changing as several members on here will tell you.

So it can cost the earth for a clutch, but it really doesn't need to
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Old 20th April 2010, 22:31   #4
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Hi Jenks.

The struggling to get the car into gear could be down to the clutch not being fully dis-engaged when the pedal is pressed. My car suffers from this from time to time and bleeding the clutch hydraulic system cures it. It can be a fiddly job at the first try, but with experience you can get it done in a few minutes! If this is what is wrong with your car then after bleeding the system the clutch will work fine and you'll have saved loads of money!
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Old 21st April 2010, 00:27   #5
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Had exactly same problem for about a month getting gradually worse not being able to get into gear at times my friendly mechanic said it was the clutch so got a clutch of ebay for £71 delivered that a garage had bought by mistake ,a freelander slave for £55 delivered ,and payed said mechanic £100 quid to fit. Took him just under 5hrs with a track rod end as well so not bad £226 all in . What a difference when i got car back light clutch with no struggle to get into gear .
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Old 21st April 2010, 06:59   #6
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Hi, I got a quote from Mr Clutch in Southampton for £400.00 including parts. It doesn't include a master cylinder but if that goes I can change that part myself. HTH
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Old 21st April 2010, 11:39   #7
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I Have found that if you have to bleed the clutch you really do have a problem, I bled mines 5 or 6 times however when the gearbox was removed a weep was coming from the slave cylinder, In my opinion that fluid level in the master cylinder is that level for a precise reason and removing the rubber bung from the top to get more fluid in is not really helping the problem just compounding it,I got a new clutch and slave cylinder from borg and beck, its a borg and beck slave cylinder too and the quality is excellent,now fitted the clutch is light,smooth and gear changes are a pleasure,its really like a new car again.
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Old 22nd April 2010, 11:45   #8
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I've found that when my clutch doesn't fully dis-engage properly and is hard to get into gear that bleeding the system sorts it for months and makes the pedal light again. There is something fundamentally wrong with the design of the master cylinder as the old expelled fluid is grey in colour as new fluid is clear. The grey colour is probably from the piston seals wearing. The fluid level in the master cylinder in my car never drops, so there isn't a leak. Just the pedal travels further and gets harder to press. A quick shot of new fluid through the system gets things fine again and lasts for ages. It's certainly worth a try for your car before you go to great expense with new clutches etc.
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Old 22nd April 2010, 19:15   #9
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I have had my Clutch changed but still have a problem where the clutch stays down and the car is very hard to get into Gear although if i then lift the clutch up with my foot it then works for a bit. I have also found that if i park up and leave it in gear the problem is not as bad. Would bleeding the clutch help and if so where is the bleed valve and how do you do this Help please
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Old 22nd April 2010, 20:10   #10
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Hi Mickeyjd,
To bleed the clutch I suck up new dot4 rated brake fluid into a syringe. You don't need much. Probably no more than 20cc's in total. This is squirted carefully into the master cylinder reservoir which is located above the clutch pedal. You'll have to remove a white plastic cap which is unscrewed. This can be fiddly because of the location of the cap and also because it is against the bulkhead soundproofing. Not a job if you have big hands!

Remove the cap and a black rubber inner. Now fill the reservoir almost to the top with the new fluid. This can be done easier with a mirror positioned to see into the top of the reservoir. If you spill any fluid wipe it up fairly quickly as it can eat paintwork!

Now under the bonnet locate at the top of the gearbox a rubber grommet. There will be two black plastic pipes coming from it. One leads off to the clutch pedal and the other one which is probably about 4 inches long ends in a metal fitting that can take 2 small spanners. I can't remember the spanner size for these but you'll need to get ones that fit. They will be metric sizes.

You will notice on the smaller of the two metal parts a fitting to plug a hose over. Find a small bit of hose about a foot long to fit onto this and then put the other end of the hose into a small bottle. This is to catch the old fluid.

With an assistant in the car tell them to fully press in the clutch pedal and hold it to the floor. Using the spanners on the fitting undo the 2 nuts slightly. Fluid should be released and flow down the tube. It happens in a split second. Now do up the nuts and ask your assistant to slowly release the clutch pedal. If it won't return by itself then it is ok to pull it back by hand. Repeat this process and release the fluid again another 6 times and fresh fluid will now be in the pipes. But remember to keep an eye on the fluid in the master cylinder during this process as it is being used up and will need to be topped up with the syringe.

Finally, the nuts on the pipework should be tight in the engine bay. Remove the tube from them and DONT spill any of the fluid on the car. It's like paint stripper.

Make sure the fluid in the master cylinder is atleast half way up the container. Re-insert the black rubber part slowly. Any fluid that spills over catch with loads of cloth. Screw the white plastic cap back on and wipe all the parts clean.

If all goes well the clutch pedal will now feel completely different and the car will go smoothly into gear. The clutch will feel so much lighter and will operate without having to push it as far down as far as before.

Good luck!
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