VIS Dilema

Greeners · 11th December 2007, 16:59

I'm pretty sure that one if not both have failed. I've read at length most of the posts on the subject so I'm more then happy to pull them to bits.

I've also read Lates posts on the problems he's had with new ones.

So, do I

a) Buy 2 new ones and change them over, cost £120 and car still on the road:

b) Take them off one at a time, dismantle and hope they are repairable, cost £0, time 60 minuites if all goes well, days if I need new ones. I assume that I'd have to at least refit it if I need to drive it...

c) Wait till it goes in for a service.........

Any thoughts on the mater......??

Oh and the guy on ebay selling a second hand set and quoting that they cost "over £250 new", dream on fella.

stocktake · 11th December 2007, 17:22

Go for option 2 David.

If they are not working and you can fix them you save money, If you cannot, then put them back together and continue to use your car, then buy new.

Greeners · 11th December 2007, 17:47

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tatts

I now have a Lates Modified one, which is working well.

Prey tell, what is a Lates modified one.....????????

Greeners · 15th December 2007, 12:59

Well managed to whip the motors offtoday, and I'm very disappointed......

Starting with the back one, managed to break most of the clips of, an finally got it apart. First problem was one of the pins on the PCB for the connector was stuck in the housing and wouldn't come out. Managed to get it out and re-solder it onto the PCB. The motor was full of oil but the switches were secure and dry. I applied power to the motor and it ran very well. Whilst the soldering iron was out, I went round each joint and applied a fresh blob of solder.

I did have a look for a manufacturing date, and the lid was marked 01/2001 which would probably make it an original from it's build date.

Front / Top one was the same. no oil and all the switches and motor appear fine. I did, again blob solder on all the joints. This one appears to have a build date of 2003.

My only other observation, was whether to drill a hole in the base of the rear motor to allow the oil to drip out rather then collecting, or even use a tube to divert it into a catch tank.

Food for thought.......

Greeners · 15th December 2007, 13:38

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tatts

David, have you seen This?.

There's also a topic on the xpower forum somewhere about installing a catch tank for the oil.

At least they're both working as they should.

That thread is on here somewhere........It was certainly helpful........

I think the catch tank was the other side of the inlet manifold, my thought was a drain on the VIS motor itself.

I'm sure Lates or Keith will add their invaluable thoughts on the matter at some point....

11th December 2007, 16:59	#1
Greeners Moderator MG-ZTT Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Ware, Herts Posts: 19,798 Thanks: 161 Thanked 1,249 Times in 1,036 Posts	VIS Dilema I'm pretty sure that one if not both have failed. I've read at length most of the posts on the subject so I'm more then happy to pull them to bits. I've also read Lates posts on the problems he's had with new ones. So, do I a) Buy 2 new ones and change them over, cost £120 and car still on the road: b) Take them off one at a time, dismantle and hope they are repairable, cost £0, time 60 minuites if all goes well, days if I need new ones. I assume that I'd have to at least refit it if I need to drive it... c) Wait till it goes in for a service......... Any thoughts on the mater......?? Oh and the guy on ebay selling a second hand set and quoting that they cost "over £250 new", dream on fella. __________________ *David* Impecunity is the mother of ingenuity Useful how to's for common problems Car Of The Month Jan 2014 [SatNav Power Down] [Coolant Level] [SatNav Repair] [Diesel Non Starting] [Paint Codes] [Rear Light Seals] [Reversing Light Switch] [Bleeding Brakes][Sunroof Drain] [Early ZT's][Instrument Pack Diagnostics][ATC Diagnostics]

11th December 2007, 17:22	#2
stocktake Vis Whiz Rover 75 2.5 auto Saloon Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: LEEDS Posts: 20,591 Thanks: 2,057 Thanked 3,056 Times in 1,621 Posts	Go for option 2 David. If they are not working and you can fix them you save money, If you cannot, then put them back together and continue to use your car, then buy new. __________________ Dave... Lost a few stones and a Gall Bladder and part of a bile duct and all of my dignity in the suppository incident

15th December 2007, 12:59	#4
Greeners Moderator MG-ZTT Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Ware, Herts Posts: 19,798 Thanks: 161 Thanked 1,249 Times in 1,036 Posts	Well managed to whip the motors offtoday, and I'm very disappointed...... Starting with the back one, managed to break most of the clips of, an finally got it apart. First problem was one of the pins on the PCB for the connector was stuck in the housing and wouldn't come out. Managed to get it out and re-solder it onto the PCB. The motor was full of oil but the switches were secure and dry. I applied power to the motor and it ran very well. Whilst the soldering iron was out, I went round each joint and applied a fresh blob of solder. I did have a look for a manufacturing date, and the lid was marked 01/2001 which would probably make it an original from it's build date. Front / Top one was the same. no oil and all the switches and motor appear fine. I did, again blob solder on all the joints. This one appears to have a build date of 2003. My only other observation, was whether to drill a hole in the base of the rear motor to allow the oil to drip out rather then collecting, or even use a tube to divert it into a catch tank. Food for thought....... __________________ *David* Impecunity is the mother of ingenuity Useful how to's for common problems Car Of The Month Jan 2014 [SatNav Power Down] [Coolant Level] [SatNav Repair] [Diesel Non Starting] [Paint Codes] [Rear Light Seals] [Reversing Light Switch] [Bleeding Brakes][Sunroof Drain] [Early ZT's][Instrument Pack Diagnostics][ATC Diagnostics]