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12th October 2015, 14:21 | #171 |
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Recently finished fitting a rover 75 fbh to my megane cc and got it all up and running off a remote switch for pre heating.... and then...
I discover webasto offer a kit to upgrade the system to direct all the heat to the heater matrix which offers very rapid interior warming and defrost, reduced fuel and electrical consumption... on contacting webasto uk they knew nothing about it. I set about replicating the webasto kit and now have a fully working remote switchable - heater matrix only - 9 minutes to defrost and warm car heater priority. standard engine and heater pre heat. this is a video of before I fitted the remote switch. https://www.youtube.com/results?sear...ebasto+defrost get in you beauty , I love my hot early mornings.... |
12th October 2015, 14:33 | #172 | |
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Quote:
Should it run indefinately in the test mode, or will it stop after a while anyway? |
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12th October 2015, 14:56 | #173 |
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Yes,it MUST run indefinately in the test mode as long as you maintain the connection.
BUT when the internal temp reaches 73 degrees,it passes in half load . And if the temp arrive at 77 degrees,then shut down and idle . At full load,you can hear in the cabin the click click of the pulsing pump at the rate of 2.38 per sec . If ,for one reason or another the flame extinguishes,it enter the mode described above. After 3 trials ,you have to do a reset (engine ignition OFF,remove /reinsert fuse F8) Mike |
12th October 2015, 15:45 | #174 | |
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What is likely to cause it? |
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12th October 2015, 15:51 | #175 |
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It's important to know if 30 sec after starting you can hear the clik click of the
fuel pump at least for a while . then check for fuel pulsing at the end of the little plastic pipe Typical cold start : The blue line is the fuel pulsing rate green =fan red = glow plug Last edited by Dragrad; 22nd January 2016 at 00:15.. |
13th October 2015, 11:58 | #176 | |
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Most likely cause is that it needs a service, if you are sure it is getting air (filter not blocked) and adequate fuel (plenty of fuel in the tank and the pump working properly, no air leaks on the pipe). The fuel pick up point is I understand, set some way above the tank bottom, so the FBH will be deprived of fuel, whilst there is still fuel in the tank. Hard carbon build up around the glow pin and the metal mesh, can cause the glow pin not to work as it should and the fuel to be not properly atomised. I detailed how to service the FBH properly, several years ago.
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Harry How To's and items I offer for free, or just to cover the cost of my expenses... http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...40#post1764540 Fix a poor handbrake; DIY ABS diagnostic unit; Loan of the spanner needed to change the CDT belts; free OBD diagnostics +MAF; Correct Bosch MAF cheap; DVB-T install in an ex-hi-line system; DD install with a HK amp; FBH servicing. I've taken a vow of poverty. To annoy me, send money. |
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13th October 2015, 21:51 | #177 | ||
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I always have >1/4 tank of fuel. My pump was also brand new a few years back. I've found a post from myself back in 2011 - http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...ad.php?t=73341 - which seems to suggest that I've already sent the PCB to Mike, who said it's ok, but that also it looks like I've had this problem all along (coming on, but then going off). My next thought is to try servicing it again, but this time pay special attention to the combustion chamber, testing the glow pin, and also think about replacing the gaskets as I know all of mine have had it (nb I know this is a matter of debate!). I do remember removing quite a bit of carbon last time, though. |
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14th October 2015, 06:59 | #178 |
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Just a thought which maybe those who know more can verify.
I think the glow pin doubles up as the flame failure sensor, so you may have a borderline glow pin. I seem to remember Mike having a trick to fool the system into thinking the glow pin is ok (21w bulb??) As I say just a thought SteveN
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Mods Fitted: Cruise Control; FBH with GSM (was FrenchMike's Remote) & dash button; Rear Blind; In-line Thermostat; wired in front & rear cameras; Mercedes DRL +DRL2; twin horns, twin usb power outlets, digital coolant temperature readout, Real Walnut dash, Walnut & black leather steering wheel, Walnut Handbrake grip, Towbar with full Rover harness. Rear seat cup holders. Wanted: Walnut auto gear stick handle Mods to do: all done , need to come up with some more. |
14th October 2015, 07:44 | #179 | |
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you are right ,here is what to do : The goal is to lower the glow plug resistor at starting . Glow plug test.jpg Mike Last edited by Dragrad; 22nd January 2016 at 00:16.. |
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14th October 2015, 10:27 | #180 |
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As said, the carbon is very hard and it can look as if you have it cleaned out and down to bare metal, but the cleaning the carbon out is the primary job when servicing. Any left in the mesh, or around the glow pin, will cause flame failures.
The glow pin acts initially as an ignition source for the fuel, then once lit, it acts as a combustion monitor. The PCB measures the varying resistance of the glow pin, to determine whether it is burning correctly or not. Carbon around the pin, will hamper its ability to both ignite the mixture and measure the combustion temperature. As said in my How To, the best way to break up the carbon in the mesh, is using hard pressure with a blunt object, pressing on the mesh. Don't attempt to pick the carbon out of the mesh, or the mesh will be destroyed. You have to crumble it, to the point where it can fall out.
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Harry How To's and items I offer for free, or just to cover the cost of my expenses... http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...40#post1764540 Fix a poor handbrake; DIY ABS diagnostic unit; Loan of the spanner needed to change the CDT belts; free OBD diagnostics +MAF; Correct Bosch MAF cheap; DVB-T install in an ex-hi-line system; DD install with a HK amp; FBH servicing. I've taken a vow of poverty. To annoy me, send money. Last edited by HarryM1BYT; 14th October 2015 at 17:38.. |
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