FBH The end of the SAGA ? - Page 19

sln8458 · 14th October 2015, 12:24

Quote:

Originally Posted by FrenchMike

How are you Steve ?
you are right ,here is what to do :

The goal is to lower the glow plug resistor at starting .

Attachment 53225

Mike

Hi Mike,
I'm well

though the same can not be said of my FBH

I sent you an email this morning.

SteveN

Jakg · 26th October 2015, 17:25

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jakg

My FBH hasn't been firing up recently.

I have the older one.

I connected pin 3 to ground, and ran the test - it stopped after 5 minutes and 10 seconds.

It did appear to fire up about half way through (and made quite a lot of white smoke when it did), and the coolant started to warm.

The unit was serviced by me last year.

The temp was about 5° C, and I have a new uprated LR FBH thermostat fitted.

Thoughts on a postcard.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jakg

Could you expand on what you mean by flameout?

Should it run indefinately in the test mode, or will it stop after a while anyway?

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jakg

When I started the engine after the test, coolant temp was 18° C, so it sounds like a flameout.

What is likely to cause it?

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jakg

Surely if it's getting no fuel, it wouldn't of fired up at all? But yes, I can test that.
I've not cleaned air intake specifically, but I did strip the unit down and give it a basic service last year.

I always have >1/4 tank of fuel. My pump was also brand new a few years back.

I've found a post from myself back in 2011 - http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...ad.php?t=73341 - which seems to suggest that I've already sent the PCB to Mike, who said it's ok, but that also it looks like I've had this problem all along (coming on, but then going off).

My next thought is to try servicing it again, but this time pay special attention to the combustion chamber, testing the glow pin, and also think about replacing the gaskets as I know all of mine have had it (nb I know this is a matter of debate!).

I do remember removing quite a bit of carbon last time, though.

I took the unit off and serviced it again, this time doing a much more thorough job - replacing all the gaskets, properly cleaning the burned and combustion chamber etc.

Put it back together and it looks to be working properly now - or at least it fires up and runs for a lot longer than 5 minutes!

I also replaced the mounting bolts (20mm M6 flanged) as mine had had it.

Jakg · 23rd November 2015, 21:24

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jakg

I took the unit off and serviced it again, this time doing a much more thorough job - replacing all the gaskets, properly cleaning the burned and combustion chamber etc.

Put it back together and it looks to be working properly now - or at least it fires up and runs for a lot longer than 5 minutes!

I also replaced the mounting bolts (20mm M6 flanged) as mine had had it.

Another day, another question!

Unit fires up doing the pin 3 test for >10 minutes, get hot, all looks good.

When the engine fires up, the unit comes on, but then after a couple of minutes turns off, often with a little white smoke?

FrenchMike · 24th November 2015, 07:28

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jakg

Another day, another question!

Unit fires up doing the pin 3 test for >10 minutes, get hot, all looks good.

When the engine fires up, the unit comes on, but then after a couple of minutes turns off, often with a little white smoke?

Hi Jack,

Two reasons that could stop it with engine ON (Under control of Pin 1)

-coolant temperature higher than 77 degrees

-external temp more than 5 degrees

Mike

Jakg · 24th November 2015, 08:33

Quote:

Originally Posted by FrenchMike

Hi Jack,

Two reasons that could stop it with engine ON (Under control of Pin 1)

-coolant temperature higher than 77 degrees

-external temp more than 5 degrees

Mike

This morning, it ran for 3 minutes with the engine on, then a big plume of white smoke, then 2 minutes with the fan on max and it cut out.

Coolant temp was 40° C at most, ambient was 7.5° C (I have the Land Rover temperature sensor that I think clicks on at 9° C?)

Again, works fine with the Pin 3 test.

Could it be PCB related? I did damage mine with a screwdriver through one edge!

FrenchMike · 24th November 2015, 09:07

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jakg

This morning, it ran for 3 minutes with the engine on, then a big plume of white smoke, then 2 minutes with the fan on max and it cut out.

Coolant temp was 40° C at most, ambient was 7.5° C (I have the Land Rover temperature sensor that I think clicks on at 9° C?)

Again, works fine with the Pin 3 test.

Could it be PCB related? I did damage mine with a screwdriver through one edge!

I would say ,if it works fine with control on pin 3,the PCB is OK

Check the voltage on pin 1 (must stay on +12 while the run) .

If any doubt about the one damaged,send it to me for test

Mike

Jakg · 29th November 2015, 23:31

Quote:

Originally Posted by FrenchMike

I would say ,if it works fine with control on pin 3,the PCB is OK

Check the voltage on pin 1 (must stay on +12 while the run) .

If any doubt about the one damaged,send it to me for test

Mike

Ok, had another look.

11° C ambient, it fired up for maybe 20 seconds then cut out (???).

I'm not quite sure of the pin numberings (is there a pinout for the older FBH?) but if I applied +12v to Pin 3 to fire it up, then Pin 1 must be the one in line with it but at the very front - in which case this was around 0.15-0.5v with it running after being started by the car, or by my remote control.

FrenchMike · 30th November 2015, 07:28

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jakg

Ok, had another look.

11° C ambient, it fired up for maybe 20 seconds then cut out (???).

I'm not quite sure of the pin numberings (is there a pinout for the older FBH?) but if I applied +12v to Pin 3 to fire it up, then Pin 1 must be the one in line with it but at the very front - in which case this was around 0.15-0.5v with it running after being started by the car, or by my remote control.

Well,so you have the first one (66232)

Pin3 is the one showed on the pict. (parking heater)

Pin 1 on all model is the "normal " fonction driven by the ECU.
maintained at +12 v all the run long.

Mike

Jakg · 30th November 2015, 10:35

Ok in which case, I am applying 12v to pin 1 to fire up the heater, and I am getting ~0.15-0.5v on Pin 3. Does this mean I've wired it up wrong?

FrenchMike · 30th November 2015, 11:41

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jakg

Ok in which case, I am applying 12v to pin 1 to fire up the heater, and I am getting ~0.15-0.5v on Pin 3. Does this mean I've wired it up wrong?

Sorry Jack,you're not allowed to apply any external 12 volt on pin 1.

It's alreary occupied ..and you risk damaging the ECU !!!

pin 1 or 3 are entries so no voltages on them at rest .

If you want to force it,apply 12 volts on pin 3.

Mike

30th November 2015, 10:35	#189
Jakg This is my second home N/A Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Suffolk Posts: 6,867 Thanks: 0 Thanked 397 Times in 302 Posts	Ok in which case, I am applying 12v to pin 1 to fire up the heater, and I am getting ~0.15-0.5v on Pin 3. Does this mean I've wired it up wrong?