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Old 8th May 2021, 06:56   #11
biffa75
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The one shuriken has fitted may already have the legs as did mine which have both come from dmgrs. They do make it more stable as the legs sit on the block. I compared the two as my original thermostat didn't have the supporting legs and noticed the difference in wobbly-ness
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Old 9th May 2021, 13:00   #12
Shuriken_57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SD1too View Post
These people are X-Part agents and they post worldwide. I bought mine from them.

Use the official method of removing the plastic manifold chamber and one of the aluminium inlet manifolds for full access and a reliable result. Remove the fixing screw and carefully lever only under the bracket. Don't use the hose connections to remove or refit the parts. Lubricate and renew all 'O' rings, available separately, part no. CDU3858. Tighten the fixing screw to the specified torque. Move the serrated clips fully outwards and squeeze them tight. Follow the official refilling and bleeding procedure involving raising the expansion tank (you did do this before didn't you?).

Yes. Your fuel consumption will be high and the oil won't reach the optimum temperature which will hasten engine wear.

Simon
Hello, I've bought one of this.
Ivhope this will work, I drove yesterday but the car takes time to heat and the temperature remains at 80 degrees

Last edited by Shuriken_57; 9th May 2021 at 13:43..
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Old 21st May 2021, 10:32   #13
Shuriken_57
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Hello guys, I've fitted the new original MG Rover thermostat.
It no longer leaks, I lubricated the O-rings well when mounting and followed the Haynes coolant refil method.
My operating temperature is around 82° instead of 90.
What do you think? On the thermostat it is well indicated 82°, but on the forums we read that the ideal operating temperature of the kv6 is about 90°.
Do you have any idea what the problem is or is it normal?
Thank you..
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Old 21st May 2021, 11:09   #14
SD1too
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My operating temperature is around 82° instead of 90.
Are you using the instrument pack diagnostics digital display Brahim?

Does it read 82° when the car is being driven? At what speed?

As the car is being driven does the temperature vary depending upon road speed? By how much?

I always recommend the MG Rover method of refilling and bleeding which I post a lot. The Haynes version contains an error. The expansion tank bleed hose should not be disconnected as stated in fig. 27.38. I hope you didn't do that.

Ignore the 82° marking moulded into the thermostat housing. The thermostat inside is rated at 88°, or it should be; mine is.

Simon
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Old 21st May 2021, 20:02   #15
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Originally Posted by SD1too View Post
Are you using the instrument pack diagnostics digital display Brahim?

Does it read 82° when the car is being driven? At what speed?

As the car is being driven does the temperature vary depending upon road speed? By how much?

I always recommend the MG Rover method of refilling and bleeding which I post a lot. The Haynes version contains an error. The expansion tank bleed hose should not be disconnected as stated in fig. 27.38. I hope you didn't do that.

Ignore the 82° marking moulded into the thermostat housing. The thermostat inside is rated at 88°, or it should be; mine is.

Simon
Hello Simon, i used the instrument pack diagnostics digital display .
Yes , the temperature vary depending upon road speed: between 90 khm and 130khm , the temperature is 82-83°.
In city, ,it's 84/100° depending the traffic.

I think I’m going to do a purge again because I disconnected the expansion tank bleed hose, I didn’t know it would be a problem.

Thanks for listening Simon .
Have a good evening.

Last edited by Shuriken_57; 21st May 2021 at 20:08..
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Old 22nd May 2021, 07:56   #16
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Yes , the temperature vary depending upon road speed: between 90 khm and 130khm , the temperature is 82-83°.
In city, it's 84/100° depending the traffic.
Thanks Brahim. A sealed cooling system, pressurising correctly, should run in the low nineties whether the car is moving at 35 km/h (20 mph) or 130 km/h (75 mph). It should only rise to 100° when the car is stationary for long periods.

Your symptoms are a classic case of an unsealed cooling system. This could be due to anything from worn expansion tank cap seals, a faulty cap, a loose hose connection, a slowly seeping 'O' ring in the 'V', a defective water pump gasket or bearing, a leaking radiator, inlet manifold gasket etc. etc., the list is almost endless. It will not be easy to find because there won't necessarily be drops of coolant visible.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Shuriken_57 View Post
I think I’m going to do a purge again because I disconnected the expansion tank bleed hose, I didn’t know it would be a problem.
It won't be a problem provided that you reconnected that hose at the same time as lowering the expansion tank back into its fixed position.

Simon
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Old 22nd May 2021, 17:15   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SD1too View Post
Thanks Brahim. A sealed cooling system, pressurising correctly, should run in the low nineties whether the car is moving at 35 km/h (20 mph) or 130 km/h (75 mph). It should only rise to 100° when the car is stationary for long periods.

Your symptoms are a classic case of an unsealed cooling system. This could be due to anything from worn expansion tank cap seals, a faulty cap, a loose hose connection, a slowly seeping 'O' ring in the 'V', a defective water pump gasket or bearing, a leaking radiator, inlet manifold gasket etc. etc., the list is almost endless. It will not be easy to find because there won't necessarily be drops of coolant visible.

It won't be a problem provided that you reconnected that hose at the same time as lowering the expansion tank back into its fixed position.

Simon
Thanks you Simon, i'll check when i can.
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Old 23rd May 2021, 16:55   #18
Shuriken_57
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I bought two thermostats, and the result is the same.
I don’t think they are defective, I have no leaks now but my temperature isn't as good as the other 75's owners .

I inspected everything again today without success. It takes time to heat and reach just over 82°( starting and driving 4 km in the city). I don’t think the thermostat is blocked.
Would anyone have a idea, please?
Thank you.

Last edited by Shuriken_57; 23rd May 2021 at 19:05..
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Old 23rd May 2021, 17:07   #19
Dorchester2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shuriken_57 View Post
I bought two thermostats, and the result is the same.
I don’t think they are defective, I have no leaks now but my temperature isn't as good as the other 75 v6 owners .

I inspected everything again today without success. It takes time to heat and reach just over 82°( starting and driving 4 km in the city). I don’t think the thermostat is blocked.
Would anyone have a idea, please?
Thank you.

Hello mate!
Is your coolant temperature a concern?
Mine gives me in cruising mode between 75 & 85°, sometimes even 70°, controlled by Torque Pro. My engine works a treat and I'm not at all intrigued or anxious. Temperatures are lower when fuelling with full E85 (ethanol). Besides I've swapped for a slightly bigger radiator and have a slightly modified air intake giving more breath. If the engine is left in stand by for a few minutes the temperature is growing over 80/85° indeed.
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Old 23rd May 2021, 18:03   #20
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Hello mate!
Is your coolant temperature a concern?
Mine gives me in cruising mode between 75 & 85°, sometimes even 70°, controlled by Torque Pro. My engine works a treat and I'm not at all intrigued or anxious. Temperatures are lower when fuelling with full E85 (ethanol). Besides I've swapped for a slightly bigger radiator and have a slightly modified air intake giving more breath. If the engine is left in stand by for a few minutes the temperature is growing over 80/85° indeed.
Hello Dorcherster, excuse me I didn't have time to post on the French forum.
The temperature worries me because I rely on the indications given by our English friends.
I changed the thermostat when I fixed my fuel leak because the original thermostat began to leak.
I’m worried about damaging the engine or that the oil is not at the right temperature.
Thanks you
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