Clutch Pedal Travel

[gazcaz]

Hi peeps ive noticed today that my pedal seems to travel a little further prior to any resistance ? Gear changing fine and no judder or slipping of any sort !

Need bleeding ? a leak ? Any pointers mostly appreciated.

[andy willi]

time to bleed it i think .

andy

[gazcaz]

Originally Posted by andy willi

time to bleed it i think .

andy

Thanks Andy king of clutches i will do at weekend

[Daveluck]

What about if it is High?

Since fitting the metal tazu master and slave my clutch is quite high. Doesn't take much pressure at all and the clutch disengages.

Before with the LUK ( possibly fake ) set up it was a lot lower

[gazcaz]

andi willi what do u think looks like a slight weep ? Book in for clutch over hall master slave (metal type) and new clutch or just keep an eye on it ?

[Kennyeth]

This is what happened to mine:
I had pedal to the floor, attempted bleeding and still the same.
My good friend Stevo fitted a new master and the end result fixed the pedal to floor but that caused the pedal to bite high, we decided it was what it is Etc however the pedal now seems to be back in the normal bite.
I am happy with that but wonder how it "righted" itself.
Ken.

[marinabrian]

Originally Posted by gazcaz

andi willi what do u think looks like a slight weep ? Book in for clutch over hall master slave (metal type) and new clutch or just keep an eye on it ?

Having just bought a car fitted with both metal slave and master, I would recommend fitting a standard master cylinder.

The transmitted noise from the rigid pipework is atrocious, and when the weather improves I shall be fitting a LUK clutch.

DMGRS has new LHD master cylinders in stock, and I would be tempted to buy one of those and swap over the pipework, then bleed it.

I would never fit the "upgraded" metal slave under any circumstances, they are not fit for purpose, due to the lack of grease in the thrust bearing.

Brian

[andy willi]

i have also stopped fitting the metal uprated slave as there have been a fair amount of failures ,
the metal slave cylinder is ok but the pipe work is not so good i had an adaptor made up to convert it to the plastic pipe but could not get it to work due to the lack of room at the back of the master ,
if only the MK1 master would take the original pipe we would be on a winner , the best thing would be a LUK master without the pipe work to bring the price down , but that wont happen,

its your choice,
andy .

ps PM replied to ,
andy

[wullie480]

Originally Posted by andy willi

i have also stopped fitting the metal uprated slave as there have been a fair amount of failures ,
the metal slave cylinder is ok but the pipe work is not so good i had an adaptor made up to convert it to the plastic pipe but could not get it to work due to the lack of room at the back of the master ,
if only the MK1 master would take the original pipe we would be on a winner , the best thing would be a LUK master without the pipe work to bring the price down , but that wont happen,

its your choice,
andy .

ps PM replied to ,
andy

Other members have had the copper pipe changed to braided pipe from HEL I think it was, there was sizes etc on the forum of what to order.
Just remembered I may have one as I think I ordered one when I got the metal master cylinder.

[DMGRS]

I have to be honest - I quite prefer the original AP Master Cylinders these days.
We've seen a few Metal Master Cylinders leak around the seal from reservoir to cylinder - granted we have sold a lot of these so a few isn't a huge percentage, but so far with around 90 AP Master Cylinders sold we've had zero issues reported.

Just need to swap the pipework, bleed up and the job's a good'un.

AP Master Cylinder - 75/ZT