over heating problem help please

sad old man · 9th May 2010, 09:24

Hi all
hoping someone can help with this one
I have got a 2.5 v6 auto, usually just drive a few miles to work however I had the car on a clip test (jerking gear change 2-3) when it decided to over heat after it had been running for about half an hour.This had not been a problem for me before although I have only had the car a couple of months. The guys at the garage block tested the car for hgf but that seems ok, they have cleared the heater matrix (which only heated one side) and flushed the system twice. The heater matrix is now fine but one thing that was noticed is that the coolant system had minute cooper flakes in it as if the previous owner had put rad seal or something similar in. Any way the problem is still there, fine when driving but leave it runnig and standing still then it will over heat after about half an hour.
Someone has suggested that the oil cooler may be blocked. Has anyone had this experience before and has anyone got a picture of the oil cooler as the one I can determine whether the one on my car is correct. it looks more like one from a diesel !!!
Gearbox had no fault found on the test but still has a very harsh change between 2 and 3
the garage also found that the swirl flap motor had been disconnected and when pluged back in the flaps just flap around so there also seems to be a problem with that.
Could this just be related or is it time to get rid??
All help gratefully recieved.

kaiser · 9th May 2010, 12:33

You will have to monitor your cooling level daily. You are most likely loosing water.
Either a leaking water pump and/or a leaking thermostat housing and pipes.
You fan could be problematic as well, should come on with AC on, check that it does.
Do a search under my name and you will see all this discussed in detail.

As for your gearbox, you will get a much improved shift by changing the oil in the box. I did.!

chrissyboy · 9th May 2010, 18:31

Quote:

Originally Posted by sad old man

Hi all
hoping someone can help with this one
I have got a 2.5 v6 auto, usually just drive a few miles to work however I had the car on a clip test (jerking gear change 2-3) when it decided to over heat after it had been running for about half an hour.This had not been a problem for me before although I have only had the car a couple of months. The guys at the garage block tested the car for hgf but that seems ok, they have cleared the heater matrix (which only heated one side) and flushed the system twice. The heater matrix is now fine but one thing that was noticed is that the coolant system had minute cooper flakes in it as if the previous owner had put rad seal or something similar in. Any way the problem is still there, fine when driving but leave it runnig and standing still then it will over heat after about half an hour.
Someone has suggested that the oil cooler may be blocked. Has anyone had this experience before and has anyone got a picture of the oil cooler as the one I can determine whether the one on my car is correct. it looks more like one from a diesel !!!
Gearbox had no fault found on the test but still has a very harsh change between 2 and 3
the garage also found that the swirl flap motor had been disconnected and when pluged back in the flaps just flap around so there also seems to be a problem with that.
Could this just be related or is it time to get rid??
All help gratefully recieved.

check the hose`s for splits and look around the water pump area for signs of leaking .and check the thermostat housing look for stianing ...

stocktake · 9th May 2010, 18:47

OK,
Check here for how to test your gearbox solenoids, it only costs time

http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...sh+gear+change

As said before, check the cooling fan, if it has failed on ALL speeds it could account for the overheating. If the high speed is still working then that can be discounted for your immediate problems ( will still need to be sorted long term). There is a small amount of KV6 engines that do suffer from HGF but not many. If you are losing water but there are no external signs then you will have to consider the possibilities that it could be HGF or the liners seal the base has failed. The addative in the water sounds like it has had ongoing problems in the past.

Checking for external leaks is fairly straight forward hoses etc, remember to look into the V as this is where the T'stat lives.

Paradroid · 9th May 2010, 19:06

Quote:

Originally Posted by sad old man

Hi all
The guys at the garage block tested the car for hgf but that seems ok, they have cleared the heater matrix (which only heated one side) and flushed the system twice. The heater matrix is now fine but one thing that was noticed is that the coolant system had minute cooper flakes in it as if the previous owner had put rad seal or something similar in. Any way the problem is still there, fine when driving but leave it runnig and standing still then it will over heat after about half an hour.
Someone has suggested that the oil cooler may be blocked. Has anyone had this experience before

I have just replaced a failed oil cooler, and "sealant" of some kind was found in it too just like you've found. It should be easy for your garage to work out whether your cooler is blocked because there's inlet and outlet water pipes, so let the car warm to the point where the thermostat opens and then see if the pipes either side are warm.

There could be other blockages in the system, as has been said before many times these sealants can block or restrict water ways inside the engine and affect the efficiency of the cooling system. Given that your car takes so long to overheat it's likely that it's a coolant flow problem rather than anything more serious like head gaskets or cracked liners.

A previous owner probably had a thermostat housing leak and mistook it for HGF so put that junk in the cooling system to stop it. Now you're having to deal with the problems.

rrobson · 9th May 2010, 19:32

Quote:

Originally Posted by sad old man

Hi all
the garage also found that the swirl flap motor had been disconnected and when pluged back in the flaps just flap around so there also seems to be a problem with that.
Could this just be related or is it time to get rid??
All help gratefully recieved.

swirl valves are more commonly known as vis valves on here and are extremely common for failing. stocktake is your expert on these so i would rather let him explain

does the manifold (black plastic unit on top of the engine) sound like its rattling? if so, it means a replacement manifold, which isnt a particularly hard task to do, they just arent cheap... this will also have no effect on overheating either, and would run while flapping around for ever. just means you wont get maximum power and torque.

as for the overheating, half an hour is rather a long time to leave an engine running while stationary, and they do run fairly warm anyway, so that may be your problem

sad old man · 10th May 2010, 18:10

Thanks for all your replies
Firstly I have got the day off on Wednesday so will check a few bits out re the advise on overheating and will update on wednesday night
Gearbox oil changed but to no effect found a few rubber mountings are knackered and what looks like a leak from the gearbox drive seal.
I will try to get to the bottom off the overheating first then worry about the gearbox after, seen them on e bay for less than £250 so that can be worst case senario!!!!
Surprised to learn that the vis flaps improve performance as it seems powerful enough as it is. will be looking forward to sorting them out and getting behind the wheel

Update to follow thanks again and any more ideas will be gratefully recieved

sad old man · 10th May 2010, 19:48

Hi
By the way does anyone know what item 10 is called?

T-Cut · 10th May 2010, 20:39

Quote:

Originally Posted by sad old man

does anyone know what item 10 is called?

According to Rimmer's listing, it's the 40C Oil Cooler fitted to the 2.0 V6.

See this: http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-GRID009544

TC

sad old man · 10th May 2010, 21:24

According to Rimmer's listing, it's the 40C Oil Cooler fitted to the 2.0 V6.

See this: http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-GRID009544

Now I am confused.
This looks like the bit on mine but mines a 2.5 v6. Is it the same for both engine or should mine be fitted with item 13 55c oil cooler?

9th May 2010, 09:24	#1
sad old man Newbie rover 75 con se hi line Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Milton Keynes Posts: 17 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	over heating problem help please Hi all hoping someone can help with this one I have got a 2.5 v6 auto, usually just drive a few miles to work however I had the car on a clip test (jerking gear change 2-3) when it decided to over heat after it had been running for about half an hour.This had not been a problem for me before although I have only had the car a couple of months. The guys at the garage block tested the car for hgf but that seems ok, they have cleared the heater matrix (which only heated one side) and flushed the system twice. The heater matrix is now fine but one thing that was noticed is that the coolant system had minute cooper flakes in it as if the previous owner had put rad seal or something similar in. Any way the problem is still there, fine when driving but leave it runnig and standing still then it will over heat after about half an hour. Someone has suggested that the oil cooler may be blocked. Has anyone had this experience before and has anyone got a picture of the oil cooler as the one I can determine whether the one on my car is correct. it looks more like one from a diesel !!! Gearbox had no fault found on the test but still has a very harsh change between 2 and 3 the garage also found that the swirl flap motor had been disconnected and when pluged back in the flaps just flap around so there also seems to be a problem with that. Could this just be related or is it time to get rid?? All help gratefully recieved.

9th May 2010, 18:47	#4
stocktake Vis Whiz Rover 75 2.5 auto Saloon Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: LEEDS Posts: 20,591 Thanks: 2,057 Thanked 3,056 Times in 1,621 Posts	OK, Check here for how to test your gearbox solenoids, it only costs time http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...sh+gear+change As said before, check the cooling fan, if it has failed on ALL speeds it could account for the overheating. If the high speed is still working then that can be discounted for your immediate problems ( will still need to be sorted long term). There is a small amount of KV6 engines that do suffer from HGF but not many. If you are losing water but there are no external signs then you will have to consider the possibilities that it could be HGF or the liners seal the base has failed. The addative in the water sounds like it has had ongoing problems in the past. Checking for external leaks is fairly straight forward hoses etc, remember to look into the V as this is where the T'stat lives. __________________ Dave... Lost a few stones and a Gall Bladder and part of a bile duct and all of my dignity in the suppository incident

9th May 2010, 12:33	#2
kaiser This is my second home 75 Tourer 2.5 Auto, 1.8T, 75V8ZT Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Johannesburg ZA Posts: 6,200 Thanks: 1 Thanked 859 Times in 613 Posts	You will have to monitor your cooling level daily. You are most likely loosing water. Either a leaking water pump and/or a leaking thermostat housing and pipes. You fan could be problematic as well, should come on with AC on, check that it does. Do a search under my name and you will see all this discussed in detail. As for your gearbox, you will get a much improved shift by changing the oil in the box. I did.!

10th May 2010, 18:10	#7
sad old man Newbie rover 75 con se hi line Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Milton Keynes Posts: 17 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Thanks for all your replies Firstly I have got the day off on Wednesday so will check a few bits out re the advise on overheating and will update on wednesday night Gearbox oil changed but to no effect found a few rubber mountings are knackered and what looks like a leak from the gearbox drive seal. I will try to get to the bottom off the overheating first then worry about the gearbox after, seen them on e bay for less than £250 so that can be worst case senario!!!! Surprised to learn that the vis flaps improve performance as it seems powerful enough as it is. will be looking forward to sorting them out and getting behind the wheel Update to follow thanks again and any more ideas will be gratefully recieved

10th May 2010, 21:24	#10
sad old man Newbie rover 75 con se hi line Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Milton Keynes Posts: 17 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	According to Rimmer's listing, it's the 40C Oil Cooler fitted to the 2.0 V6. See this: http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-GRID009544 Now I am confused. This looks like the bit on mine but mines a 2.5 v6. Is it the same for both engine or should mine be fitted with item 13 55c oil cooler?