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Old 27th February 2021, 18:10   #91
Arctic
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Originally Posted by SD1too View Post
I'm sorry to hear this Steve but glad that you're back with us now.

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I did see your excellent pictorial guide and that is the method I'm using. It also happens to be the one in the MG Rover workshop manual.

Simon
Simon
I don't know about it being in the MG Rover workshop manual, i just followed my nose so to speak, when i changed the top bearing on my sons car way back, knowing what i know now i would have followed Brian's method which does seem easier, and not so long to do.

https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/for...43&postcount=2


Hopefully i won't need to tackle one just yet, as i doubt i could lift a te spoon let alone cracking Hub clamps etc.

Lots of knowledgeable and experienced people on here to follow, whom have tackled the job in person rather than theory from a MG Rover workshop manual, which will only point how to do the job on paper, in the field its totally different, as problems will be thrown at you, which the manual will not cover.

I personally would follow those that have done the job, and quite a few times as well, every little bit of knowledge is helpful no matter if it by the book or not, this forum and club only survives as it does because of those very knowledgeable and experienced people whom are willing to share their findings, if not then the forum would not work as it doe's.

Members make a forum/ club, so lets not lose the most experienced ones, all stay safe out there.
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Old 27th February 2021, 20:22   #92
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So many of us have come across these bolts being seized, it is almost worth putting them on the service schedule.

macafee2[/QUOTE]


Now this is a completely different debate , and comes down to a lot of factors,
I would have thought most members who have owned their car a while would have already done such tasks if they where going to !

If you do your own maintainance on your own car this is easy to achieve, hence my cars bladdered in coppaslip and grease . If your car is garaged maintained are you going to pay the extra cost for the Garage to do it and are they going to be interested in doing it. This affects a lot of the members who either have not got the knowledge/ability or elderly members who unfortunatly can’t physically crawl under a car anymore

Also is the car a daily or a project . A Project car is more liable to have more time spent on it than a daily drive as the car has chance to be laid up to carry out maintenance Basically you have the time to overhaul rather than service

My 45 is sat in the garage now with one side of the rear suspension completely in bits to overhaul and paint , but that’s because 1, I don’t need to use it and 2, because I have the time and ability to carry out the work , I have already done one side over the winter !

But your right preventative maintenance now can save you a lot of blood sweat and tears in the future
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Old 27th February 2021, 20:33   #93
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[QUOTE=SD1too;2867612]Errr ... not quite Andy! You've forgotten to mention the subframe bolts (probably also rusty), the staked hub nut which will need replacing plus disconnecting the brake line and bleeding them on completion.

This was aimed at Andy i know but whichever way you remove the strut you do not have to disconnect the brake pipes ,as you just undo the calliper from the hub , unclip the pipes from the Strut (as you will have done) and lay to one side The only wiring you have to disconnect if removing the full hub is the ABS

Pleased to hear you have progressed and got the strut removed
If doing the other side you will find it a breeze, as I take it the old springs have been a pair and obviously you wont want another failure or to buy another tyre


Removing seized bolts is another art which some people make look easy .tooling is a major factor . . If your rounding off (I know wasted nuts or bolts) with a impact 6 sided socket , it is too big as with the right size you would sheer the bolt rather than round it, usually high tensile bolts undo. Another factor is the size of hammer used . A too light a hammer even with a lot of force will bounce not shock and move the bolt been impacted Personally I have always managed to remove these bolts without having to resort to destroying them even though I have twisted them removing them and have replaced them

These tools are a good edition to anybody's tool kit

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Irwin-Bolt-...00704927&psc=1
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