Door Lock Actuators Rear.

[Arctic]

I think most of us at one time or another have had a door actuator go down on us, ie will not open on the fob & the central locking doesn't open it either.

The only answer to this situation is the opening motor in the lock as failed, therefore you would/will have to change it out for a working one, how long will a second hand one last, how many times do you blink in a day? it is always going to be pot luck, a day, a month, several months, years, who knows.

New ones are available but expensive, so if we could find a new decent opening motor then maybe we could be on to a good diy repair, bit there in lies another problem these locks are not easy to open and take apart.

So like most we go down the second hand or new route, if you are looking for a rear lock and unsure which one you need from a listing on ebay etc then ask for the stamp on it.

W2R = and the child lock mechanism which would then be Rear OS lock (Right)
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W2L= and the child lock mechanism would then be Rear NS lock (Left)
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These can also be seen hear.
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In this photo i have deliberately held up a Rear OS lock to a rear NS door, as you can see the torx hole fixing are not lined up and the lock latch is facing the wrong way.
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The correct NS rear lock lines up, and you can see the child lock top right.
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Photo of the motors inside the lock.
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I know Dave (Stocktake) did some research into these locks a few years back, which i talked to him briefly at a Nano meet also a couple of years ago we both agreed they are not easy to take apart, he also mentioned the motors are of different makes? hopefully if he sees this thread he will share his knowledge of his investigation into the locks.

I will start another post or thread on the front locks the OS driver being most important. cheers Arctic.

[Devilish]

Originally Posted by stocktake

Hmmm, interesting. on all the door locks I have opened ( around half a dozen) the motors are the same make

Ooh look Dave, different motors

[stocktake]

Originally Posted by Devilish

Ooh look Dave, different motors

Are they? they both have the distinctive black line of the same make. the numbering is very easy to rub off? then again the casing cast seems different.
numbers seem to be generally 20005 lock and 20006 unlock

Edit:
numbers corrected thanks to post below

[planenut]

Originally Posted by stocktake

Are they? they both have the distinctive black line of the same make. the numbering is very easy to rub off? then again the casing cast seems different.
numbers seem to be generally 2005 lock and 2006 unlock

I think the numbers are 2 0 0 0 5 and 2 0 0 0 6 ?

[Arctic]

Hi Dave.
I will try not to confuse this thread if I can help it but this is a front drivers lock.
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I never really took much notice of the numbering on the motor casings, but I am sure I passed these onto Steve (Devlish) at a later date.

I may revisit opening a lock later this evening or tomorrow depending on what else I have to do, and take more notice this time round.

[genpk]

ive rebuilt a few of these.
the difference in the two motors is the length of the drive cog shaft.
I have managed to change the shaft onto a good motor (usually find one motor ok in the locks)
Also have pulled the small motors apart and most failures appear to be the small carbon bushes wearing out.
Same locks are used in mini’s and landrovers i think.
Easy way to dis assemble the outside casing is to use a heat gun and gently bend the plastic lock tags back.

[clf]

The motors on these remind me of scalextric motors,

http://www.scalextricaustralia.com/S...or%20types.pdf

perhaps they are available with the appropriate length shafts? example?

I am not sure if the brushes are the fault with these, but the old type Johnson and RX motors, used to be able to opened up (the RX ones didnt need opened obviously) and their brushes could be replaced.

Then there is an interesting read HERE, which I could see as being a problem with our locks (lack of cleaning/oiling?)

[Arctic]

Originally Posted by genpk

ive rebuilt a few of these.
the difference in the two motors is the length of the drive cog shaft.
I have managed to change the shaft onto a good motor (usually find one motor ok in the locks)
Also have pulled the small motors apart and most failures appear to be the small carbon bushes wearing out.
Same locks are used in mini’s and landrovers i think.

Hi Peter.
A bit like this then
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Going round the lock one by one.
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lift the lid after removing all the screws etc.
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[roverbarmy]

"lift the lid after removing all the screws etc."


I seem to remember reading those words in a Haynes manual when repairing my first gearbox......................... which is the point where everything flew all over the garage, to disappear into nooks,crannies and recesses never to be seen again!

[genpk]

Originally Posted by Arctic

Hi Peter.
A bit like this then
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Going round the lock one by one.
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lift the lid after removing all the screws etc.
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Exactly!! the tricky bits are bending back the tabs around the casing without
breaking them, hence i use a heat gun carefully and also getting the centre pin with the press on clip out. i replace the pin with a nut and bolt.
Another way to repair the electric motors is to dis assemble the motor and if you have any spare motors, you can swap the brushes over.Its fiddly but works.
In the end alot easier just to replace the unit.