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Old 13th April 2020, 07:55   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by marinabrian View Post
What on earth type of soldering iron were you gents using?

I couldn't get enough heat into the thing to wet both the land and the tab simultaneously

Brian
I read Greeners did it with a large soldering iron - I can't find the thread again now but that's what he said. A large hot soldering iron touching glass scares the pants off me - I'll try gluing it. Thanks all.
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Old 13th April 2020, 08:51   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by marinabrian View Post
What on earth type of soldering iron were you gents using?

I couldn't get enough heat into the thing to wet both the land and the tab simultaneously

Brian
sorry I don't remember, probably an electric soldering iron.

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Old 13th April 2020, 09:53   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by marinabrian View Post
What on earth type of soldering iron were you gents using?

Don't tell me you've forgotten the days of the red-hot poker Brian
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Old 13th April 2020, 10:06   #14
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Still got one buried in the garage somewhere.
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Old 13th April 2020, 11:52   #15
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Just going through the options.

Quote:
Originally Posted by COLVERT View Post
Glue. Yes.
Halfords for one do a metallic paint to repair the fine wires across the screen.

A layer of this plus glue on top will make the connection good again.
Assuming this is the repair paint (link) the reviews aren't too good.

Here's another repair paint - Amazon. The seller says it needs to be used with this adhesive to repair HRW tabs. I'm a tad dubious that it'll work.

This one might though - a silver epoxy adhesive with "high electrical conductivity" (see datasheet pdf) - RS Stock No 186-3616. Shame about the price!


Quote:
Originally Posted by trikey View Post
You can buy electrically conductive glue.

https://www.intertronics.co.uk/produ...SAAEgLQqPD_BwE
£50 minimum order - https://www.intertronics.co.uk/conta...w-to-purchase/ and I can't find anyone else that sells it.


Quote:
Originally Posted by marinabrian View Post
Simon, if you heat up the solder on the tab, then wick it off, you will be left with the metal tab with four dimples protruding from it.......here is one I prepared earlier (pic)

Carefully clean the land around the tab location on the window, using 240 production paper, then wipe it over with isopropanol, or meths.

Mix up a dot of Araldite Rapid, apply it to the tab, then push it firmly into place, and hold it using a small screwdriver or similar in the centre of the four dots until the glue sets.

The protruding pips will make sufficient contact with the screen to make an electrical connection, and the Araldite will be more than sufficient to mechanically secure it.

If it's good enough for a HRW wiring tab to connect in this way, your radio aerial connection will be fine

Brian
Presumably the four protruding tips won't conduct electricity if I get Araldite Rapid on them - or is the idea that they push the glue out of the way just enough to make an electrical contact?
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Old 13th April 2020, 12:16   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Number 6 View Post
Sorry but this is a slight Hijack.

I have recently had to fit a rear screen into a friend saloon. It came from a scrap car and the wires had just been cut off. is there a picture or diagram of the wiring as it should be anywhere some one could post up??

LH side (nearside) has 4 connections to the glass. Top two are the plug to aerial amp XUC100741. Bottom two go to the earth point bolt just below the amp.
NB. Top of glass on the right in this pic (obviously ).




RH side (offside) has 2 connections to the glass. Top one goes to the LH end connector on the filter amp XUE100001. Bottom one goes to middle connector on XUE100001. RH end connector on XUE100001 goes to the loom.
NB. Top of glass on the left in this pic ().




NB. The connections might be different if the car uses other amplifiers.

Last edited by Blink; 13th April 2020 at 12:55..
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Old 13th April 2020, 13:03   #17
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I had one off on my previous car. I cleaned up the connections, held the end of a piece of fluxed electrical solder between the solder on the screen and the spade connector with a small screwdriver, then applied my ready heated electric (small) soldering iron to the spade until I saw the solder run. Pulled iron off immediately, then allowed to cool. Screen was fine, with no crackking etc. (At your own risk of course)
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Old 13th April 2020, 13:26   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roverbarmy View Post
.. I cleaned up the connections, held the end of a piece of fluxed electrical solder between the solder on the screen and the spade connector with a small screwdriver, then applied my ready heated electric (small) soldering iron to the spade until I saw the solder run. Pulled iron off immediately, then allowed to cool. Screen was fine, with no crackking etc. (At your own risk of course)
The problem is I don't think there's any solder left on the screen - there's just a smear of white powder where it used to be. I can't understand how they get solder to stick to glass (or the pad) in the first place.

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Old 13th April 2020, 18:29   #19
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The Amazon one sounds OK. With just a touch of instant glue to hold it in place.
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Old 13th April 2020, 21:04   #20
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I had the same situation, tried different items from amazon and ebay, but ended up getting a new rear screen. The last glue stuck it fine, but still had dead lines, so gave up.
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