Common for oil pump cooler pipe thread to strip? - Page 2

racing green rover · 22nd April 2020, 19:23

Ok thanks I'll try to do it this weekend one of the bolts that hold it onto the sump has all the head munched up so its going to be fun getting that off

trikey · 22nd April 2020, 19:56

As Phil says it will be the oil cooer threads that have let go, its quite common.

racing green rover · 27th April 2020, 14:15

I've tried to remove the cooler today but one of the bolts that hold it onto the sump is munched up I've tried locking grips on it and tried to cut the bolt off but it wont have it so i think i might take the sump off and drill the bolt out

racing green rover · 27th May 2020, 15:28

I got somebody to replace the cooler he also put new oil pipes on the threads in the oil pump were fine according to him, i've changed the lower rail coolant pipe for the stainless steel version

Avulon · 28th May 2020, 06:42

Just and observation - If it's common to strip threads where steel is is screwed into aluminium that means either the thread is underspecced or nearly everyone overtightens it (easily done with an aluminium thread). I don't know how it's meant to seal but if it's only by tightening the threads then they're going to strip. IMO a sealant should be used not 'gorilla force' e.g. loctite 567.

22nd April 2020, 19:56	#12
trikey Premium Trader Rover 75 Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: Devon Posts: 33,764 Thanks: 8,837 Thanked 14,831 Times in 8,030 Posts	As Phil says it will be the oil cooer threads that have let go, its quite common. __________________ Lest we forget..

28th May 2020, 06:42	#15
Avulon This is my second home 1.8t Tourer Join Date: Oct 2011 Location: Tanelorn Posts: 4,830 Thanks: 956 Thanked 1,148 Times in 916 Posts	Just and observation - If it's common to strip threads where steel is is screwed into aluminium that means either the thread is underspecced or nearly everyone overtightens it (easily done with an aluminium thread). I don't know how it's meant to seal but if it's only by tightening the threads then they're going to strip. IMO a sealant should be used not 'gorilla force' e.g. loctite 567. __________________ Need a T4 ?: T4 Owners Map thanks to Stevestrat ( use at your own risk) Where?: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tanelorn Mods/Retrofits: PCV vortex 'filter'; bluetooth; inline thermostat; reversing sensors; plenum spyhole ; headlamp washers ; Diy mp3 player replacing CD multichanger; FBH with remote; Headlamp washers; black/chrome front grille, rear blind; Xenon projectors To do: puddle lights; 2 Din cd/nav to fit; boot release button

22nd April 2020, 19:23	#11
racing green rover Avid contributor MG ZT Join Date: Sep 2014 Location: Westhoughton Bolton Posts: 233 Thanks: 153 Thanked 16 Times in 14 Posts	Ok thanks I'll try to do it this weekend one of the bolts that hold it onto the sump has all the head munched up so its going to be fun getting that off

27th April 2020, 14:15	#13
racing green rover Avid contributor MG ZT Join Date: Sep 2014 Location: Westhoughton Bolton Posts: 233 Thanks: 153 Thanked 16 Times in 14 Posts	I've tried to remove the cooler today but one of the bolts that hold it onto the sump is munched up I've tried locking grips on it and tried to cut the bolt off but it wont have it so i think i might take the sump off and drill the bolt out

27th May 2020, 15:28	#14
racing green rover Avid contributor MG ZT Join Date: Sep 2014 Location: Westhoughton Bolton Posts: 233 Thanks: 153 Thanked 16 Times in 14 Posts	I got somebody to replace the cooler he also put new oil pipes on the threads in the oil pump were fine according to him, i've changed the lower rail coolant pipe for the stainless steel version