Bolt tightening KV6

[Rich in Vancouver]

You do have to be very careful turning the cams if using the cheaper version of the timing tools or if doing it without dedicated tools. When I got my KV6 Freelander two of the cams had been damaged at the locating slot for the pulley and I managed to damage another when trying to turn the cam with the tool not properly square. Damage isn't too much of an issue on the exhaust cams as the slot is only used with the tools but on the intake it is where the pulley locates so is much more important. The dedicated factory cam turning tool is a much better solution. You must make sure that the tool is properly inserted before trying to rotate the cam.
I was lucky as I was replacing a head complete with new cams but it could have got expensive replacing damaged cams.

[Mr Toad]

I thought I had cracked it but alas that was not to be. The front head is absolutely fine but with the rear head I cannot get the secondary belt sprockets to line up when 18G 1747-2 is fitted to the inlet cam and exhaust cam at the front of the head.

I can get the sprockets to line up if I take the inlet sprocket off and turn both camshafts manually so that the secondary sprockets line up with 12-175 inserted which seems okay. I then remove 12-175 put the sprocket back at the front and put on 18G 1747-2 but the secondary sprockets are not lining up and I can't get 12-175 back on.

There has to be something wrong here as I believe that once you put on 18G 1747-2 the secondary belt sprockets should automatically be in line. Has anyone got any ideas as to what could be wrong as I cannot put the heads back on the car until I have managed to sort this out. All assistance gratefully received.

Incidentally, I haver the special timing tools from Laser Tools. Today one of the locating lugs broke off. Upon examination it appears it has not been welded on properly so until I get this repaired I will not be able to proceed which is a bit of a nuisance.

Martin

[chris75]

Originally Posted by Rich in Vancouver

That's a sight I've seen before . The camshaft ends are rather weak and will not stand any abuse

[chris75]

Originally Posted by Mr Toad

There has to be something wrong here as I believe that once you put on 18G 1747-2 the secondary belt sprockets should automatically be in line. Has anyone got any ideas as to what could be wrong as I cannot put the heads back on the car until I have managed to sort this out. All assistance gratefully received.


Martin

Having read your procedure , I suspect you may be missing a trick if I read it correctly
The tool for the rear 2 sprockets does indeed line up the sprockets , but the exhaust camshaft itself will still need a tweak to line up with its sprocket . You do this by rotating it ever so slightly at the front end using just the spindle of the front end tool until the rear sprocket slips in . I include here an extract from the instructions for my Sealey tool set ( the tool numbers quoted are different , with 1290/01 being for the front end and 1290/05 for the rear sprockets ) :
4.2.9. Some alignment of the exhaust camshaft will be required when installing the rear cam sprocket/belt assembly and therefore it is necessary
to remove and discard the oil seal from the front of the exhaust camshaft in order to fit the spindle from VS1290/01 Locking Tool. This seal
will already have been removed if the front belt has been replaced.
4.2.10. Fit the spindle into the front of the exhaust camshaft (location pin into slot in camshaft) and use it to carefully turn the camshaft to align the
drive slot in the camshaft rear to match the rear sprocket during installation.
Note: For this alignment application the pegs of the Locking Tool Assembly are not located into the camshaft sprocket hubs. Only the spindle of
VS1290/01 Tool is used.
Hope I have read your procedure correctly and that this helps

[SD1too]

Originally Posted by Mr Toad

There has to be something wrong here as I believe that once you put on 18G 1747-2 the secondary belt sprockets should automatically be in line. Has anyone got any ideas as to what could be wrong ...

Martin, please revisit my post no. 6. There isn't anything wrong. My engine was the same and it ran perfectly after the belt replacement.

I agree with you that logically with the front tool fitted, the rear tool should also locate properly but it doesn't. Other club members raised this point on the forum and a response was posted by someone (now deceased I believe) who said he was involved in the design of the KV6 timing tools. You might be able to find it but I doubt that you will be reassured!

For what it's worth, the RAVE procedure for changing the rear belts is with the front tools not fitted.

Simon

[chris75]

Originally Posted by SD1too

For what it's worth, the RAVE procedure for changing the rear belts is with the front tools not fitted.

Simon

Correct . That's because they don't help . The front tool does not set the exhaust cam in position because the spindle is free to rotate and therefore does not hold the exhaust cam .The purpose of inserting the spindle into the exhaust cam is to set the whole tool at the correct angle so that the two pins on the other end will correctly set the inlet cam ; the whole purpose of the front tool when fully fitted is to set the inlet cam , which from then on will be held in position by the belt .
The exhaust cam is then set by the rear tool, relative to the correctly positioned inlet . As mentioned , the spindle end of the front tool is also used to rotate the exhaust relative to the inlet to allow the rear sprockets to be fitted . From then on everything is aligned

[Mr Toad]

Simon in your post no 6 you are dealing with a change of the belts with the heads in the car. I have removed the heads and camshafts therefore the timing will have been lost. The timing tools as you will know are used to restore the correct timing without any messing around. After all the other head was perfectly ok therefore I believe that this one should be the same, there must be something wrong. I think I know what it is and I will try it tomorrow and keep you advised as to how I get on.

Thanks Chris but I think we are at cross purposes. The problem is that I cannot get the tools to line on the rear head, but as I have said above I am going to try something tomorrow.

Martin

[Fred Byrne]

You cannot install the locking tool unless the the slot on the inlet camshaft is pointing directly at the centre of the end of the exhaust camshaft. I used the straight edge of a steel rule to set this but it has to be precise. You must remove the engine locking pin and rotate the engine until the inlet slot is correct. The 2.5l engine's crankshaft has to be rotated about 10 degrees past the engine safe mark. It is possible to do this with the head off the engine but it is very difficult because the valve springs won't allow the inlet shaft to remain in the correct alignment but if you have an obedient assistant it is relatively easy. You may have to use "G" clamps to hold the head down to the work bench while doing this.In that case getting an obedient assistant is the difficult part! Once you have the inlet shaft correctly positioned and this must be precise. Then with the sprockets in the spreading tool engage the inlet sprocket on the its key-way and rotate the exhaust camshaft until the exhaust sprocket will slot in. If it doesn't slot in it is because the inlet shaft is not positioned correctly. One futher point is that do not over stretch the belts as in that case the keys on the sprockets will be too far apart and they won't enter the slots. These settings are so precise that I wonder how anybody can do this job by using markings on the relevant sprockets. The good news is that when the inlet camshaft is correctly positioned on one cylinder head it should also be correct on the other head. I found that there was a slight discrepancy betwen the two heads presumably because there was some stretch in the timing belt.
Good luck.

Fred

[Mr Toad]

I thought that I had read somewhere that the tools may not fit and the engine may need turning over but I found this not to make any difference. However, I have managed to fit the rear sprockets so that they line up without 18G 1747-2 fitted.

When I removed the primary belt I put the engine into the "safe" position with the rear sprockets in line, my concern now is that when I use 18G 1747-2 to put the primary belt back on that the secondary sprockets may not line up or am I worrying unnecessarily.

Anyone got any ideas how to repair the lug that has come off 18G 1747-2 as I do not have access to a welding machine at the moment.

Martin

[SD1too]

Originally Posted by Mr Toad

... my concern now is that when I use 18G 1747-2 to put the primary belt back on that the secondary sprockets may not line up or am I worrying unnecessarily.

I think that you will find that and yes, you are worrying unnecessarily!

Originally Posted by Mr Toad

Anyone got any ideas how to repair the lug that has come off 18G 1747-2 ...

If the travel restrictions are relaxed I might be able to help you with that. I have the Laser tools too.

Simon