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Old 17th April 2017, 08:51   #11
Arctic
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Originally Posted by Gedget75 View Post
Thanks for all the inputs.
Any place that you advice me to buy?
I am also considering buying an EGR bypass. It's best to buy the physical bypass item, or just remove the tube and fit a screw on it?

Kind regards
Sometimes look on here I have had a couple of members ask about it, and wanting it but can not get an answer ? postal cost will be a bit more overseas.

http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...d.php?t=265621
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Old 17th April 2017, 11:29   #12
mmz
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Talking about MAFs... I just installed TOAF software and checked the (CDTI) engine live data. It says the required air mass is about 600 and the the real air mass I get is about 500-515. Should I be worried about that even if it does not cause any engine error codes? I changed the air filter and sprayed some cleaning liquid in the MAF but it still shows the same readings. Could that be a reason for the idle vibrations?

I measured also the injectors and they show some -1 to +1 readings on a warm engine. The engine temp was only just over 70 degrees Celsius after a test drive so is it too low?
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Old 17th April 2017, 12:21   #13
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Originally Posted by mmz View Post
Talking about MAFs... I just installed TOAF software and checked the (CDTI) engine live data. It says the required air mass is about 600 and the the real air mass I get is about 500-515. Should I be worried about that even if it does not cause any engine error codes? I changed the air filter and sprayed some cleaning liquid in the MAF but it still shows the same readings. Could that be a reason for the idle vibrations?

I measured also the injectors and they show some -1 to +1 readings on a warm engine. The engine temp was only just over 70 degrees Celsius after a test drive so is it too low?
MAF readings should be between 495 and 505 mg/stroke at idle EGR closed and between 620 and 680mg/stroke at 3000 RPM with the engine off load.

Readings will be accurate at engine temperatures >65 degrees C

Brian
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