Go Back   The 75 and ZT Owners Club Forums > The 75 and ZT Owners Club Forums > Technical Help Forum
Register FAQ Image Gallery Members List Calendar Mark Forums Read
Notices

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 23rd December 2014, 20:56   #21
wuzerk
Passed Away
 
Rover 75 CDT 03 auto Conn. SE

Join Date: May 2009
Location: London
Posts: 2,885
Thanks: 104
Thanked 254 Times in 204 Posts
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by first-things-first View Post
Thanks you Pete for the response. Sounds a good plan do the two with obvious age (no. 19 above and Hydramount), then inspect the no. 20 mount and change if still unhappy.

Did you guys get the Hydramount from DMGRS? Is that a genuine one or a new Chinese MG version?
It had better be a genuine one (diesel) because the Chinese do not produce
a diesel! The cup at the base of the diesel Hydramount is a large piece of metal and should not suffer any damage throughout the cars life IMO.
wuzerk is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 30th December 2014, 19:21   #22
whippet
Regular poster
 
75 cdti - Royal Blue + Velocette kss mk2 (1936) + Sunbeam model 9 500cc (1935)

Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: sussex
Posts: 81
Thanks: 39
Thanked 12 Times in 8 Posts
Default Hydramount change cdti

Removed my Hydramount on my Cdti today and it was badly split,also under inspection the Tie bar top mount rubber has also badly split, part number kkh101852, there seems to be a couple of variants on rimmers website, looking for a seconhand as rimmers new are approx £92, worth checking this part when changing your hydramount.
whippet is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 14th April 2015, 09:35   #23
rosephus
Posted a thing or two
 
rosephus's Avatar
 
MG ZT 2.0 CDTi 135+

Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Manchester
Posts: 1,122
Thanks: 480
Thanked 213 Times in 145 Posts
Default

i have noticed that my intermittant vibration is a lot better in warm weather.

this suggests to me that maybe the glycol in the hyrdramount is past its best.
rosephus is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 25th April 2015, 20:57   #24
Jakg
This is my second home
 
N/A

Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Suffolk
Posts: 6,867
Thanks: 0
Thanked 397 Times in 302 Posts
Default

Thanks for the guide - halfway through the job and I just thought I'd say that having the big black metal block over the bolt isn't a major problem - but not having a deep 18mm socket is!

You need one, I need one
Jakg is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 26th April 2015, 06:45   #25
ALPACA
Gets stuck in
 
MG HS EXCLUSIVE DCT

Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: KENT
Posts: 730
Thanks: 51
Thanked 108 Times in 25 Posts
Default




I have to say a massive THANK YOU to my brilliant dad, (WUZERK) who, just a few days after coming out of hospital after surgery, very kindly supervised me in fitting a new Hydramount (from DMGRS) to Roxy. At Thirteen years old and 112,000, she was noticeably more buzzy in terms of vibrations at the steering wheel than his car which had a new Hydramount fitted. I could also see and feel the difference at the engine and feel it inside the cabin.



I can do basic service tasks, but am not a competent spanner man, but dad talked me through each step and I did not manage to loose any bolts or break any of his tools. Whilst underneath the car, I took off the Lower engine mount which looked OK at first, but on closer inspection it was badly split on both sides in several places, so I fitted a new one (from DMGRS), as part of the job.


Driving home, I just could not believe the difference in Roxy. She is now soooo smooth, I can't put my finger on how, but she just feels like a new car, no more vibrations at the steering wheel, and a real pleasure to drive. I must admit I was terrified lying underneath the car, with a wheel jack and piece of wood under the sump, the engine swinging in the breeze and dad saying, 'Oh, the bolts are not lined up......!', but all went well and all I can say is it's one of the most brilliant 'mods' I have done to Roxy.



Thanks Wuzerk, I am ready to tour Scotland in a few weeks now and as happy as a pig in the you-know-what
__________________
MG HS EXCLUSIVE DCT - Dynamic Red Tri-Coat with Sardana red Bader leather interior. K&N filter.Weathershields.Mudflaps.Sundshades.Slot mats.Quilted rear seat protector.Latch guards.Fabric & rubber mats.Fabric & rubber Loadliners.Full alloy spare.MG seatbelt covers.Aussie chrome tailgate strip & bumper protector.Autoglymn lifeshine.Indonesian tailgate badge.Chrome steering wheel cover.
ALPACA is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 26th April 2015, 07:32   #26
wuzerk
Passed Away
 
Rover 75 CDT 03 auto Conn. SE

Join Date: May 2009
Location: London
Posts: 2,885
Thanks: 104
Thanked 254 Times in 204 Posts
Default Socket

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jakg View Post
Thanks for the guide - halfway through the job and I just thought I'd say that having the big black metal block over the bolt isn't a major problem - but not having a deep 18mm socket is!

You need one, I need one
I just moved the socket further down on the 1/2" square drive so that it just engaged the 18mm nut.....job done.
wuzerk is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 26th April 2015, 07:37   #27
wuzerk
Passed Away
 
Rover 75 CDT 03 auto Conn. SE

Join Date: May 2009
Location: London
Posts: 2,885
Thanks: 104
Thanked 254 Times in 204 Posts
Default Hydramount

Quote:
Originally Posted by ALPACA View Post










Driving home, I just could not believe the difference in Roxy. She is now soooo smooth,



Thanks Wuzerk, I am ready to tour Scotland in a few weeks now and as happy as a pig in the you-know-what
The old Hydramount looked to be in perfect condition, no splits, no sign of fluid leakage etc but changing it transformed the car. I think that is because the rubber hardens with age so is less able to flex and absorb the
engine movement.
wuzerk is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 26th April 2015, 20:16   #28
Jakg
This is my second home
 
N/A

Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Suffolk
Posts: 6,867
Thanks: 0
Thanked 397 Times in 302 Posts
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by wuzerk View Post
I just moved the socket further down on the 1/2" square drive so that it just engaged the 18mm nut.....job done.
Unfortunately in my case that did not work - it just rounded the nut a bit!

In my case I had to use a 36" breaker bar to undo basically all of the bolts in this job - they were all horrifically tight (much tighter than the torque figures in RAVE).
Jakg is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 9th May 2015, 12:04   #29
ricklincs45
Newbie
 
MG ZT-T

Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Lincoln
Posts: 10
Thanks: 1
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Default Re; crank pulley change / engine mount

Hello All, I know this is a rather late edition to the original post, but only just came across it.

Ok, I read with great interest the discussions about the top engine hydramount. Approx' 6 months ago the crank pulley failed on my ZT-T cdti (with X-power 160bhp remap, 102000 miles, fsh). I had the pulley changed by a mechanic I trust, and who has experience of working on these cars. I should point out the replacement was an aftermarket item. At the same time, the aux' belt was replaced.

Upon collecting the car, she now 'rattles' noticeably more than before, only at tickover speeds - as soon as the revs pick-up, the noise goes. This was extremely annoying as previously she ran as sweet as a nut, and I'm obsessive about things not being right.

Then had idler and tensioner replaced (not cheap); made no difference whatsoever.

Came across a thread from a guy with similar problem who had replaced virtually everything on the aux' belt line, all to no avail until he changed the belt for a different make; noise went. So, recently had the belt changed (again) for a genuine one. No difference, another 160 quid wasted.

The car still runs perfectly, no leaks from power steering. So, is the replacement aftermarket crank pulley the problem? Very expensive to change to a genuine one just to find it isn't. Or is the unwanted tickover noise coincidental? If you pour water on the aux' belt at the p' steering pump, although the belt squeals, the engine noise smooths out and the noise disappears. As soon as the belt dries out, the noise is back.

Now going outside to have a look at the hydramount. A very interesting and helpful thread, I hope some of what I mentioned is of use to someone.

Rick

Last edited by ricklincs45; 9th May 2015 at 12:08..
ricklincs45 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 9th May 2015, 12:21   #30
wuzerk
Passed Away
 
Rover 75 CDT 03 auto Conn. SE

Join Date: May 2009
Location: London
Posts: 2,885
Thanks: 104
Thanked 254 Times in 204 Posts
Default Rattle

If you do mean 'rattle' and not 'vibrate ' and since you state that it rattled
more than before the crank pulley was changed it certainly sounds like the
replacement is the problem. The water test is pretty reliable too so seems to confirm it. This seems to be the original quality make but you could do a search for a cheaper supplier.

http://www.dmgrs.co.uk/collections/p...mper-lhg100750

I seem to remember something about the landrover/freelander item being the same and cheaper......ISLAND 4X4 rings a bell!

Last edited by wuzerk; 9th May 2015 at 12:30..
wuzerk is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT. The time now is 11:52.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
Copyright © 2006-2023, The Rover 75 & MG ZT Owners Club Ltd