KV6 Clutch

[Rover600]

Hello all,

It looks like I need to put a new clutch in our 75 KV6 2.5

Bite point is very high and it has slipped on a few occasions – this seems commensurate with its age and mileage (2002 90k)
I’ve changed several clutches before but never on a 75 and reading though several threads I get the impression this has been a contentious subject for a number of years!

I'm not sure how much of the information is still relevant today, so my questions are:

1) Currently, what is the recommendation for the best (most reliable) available clutch components? (i.e. AP, Luk etc)

2) I can see no issues with the hydraulics at the moment, is it advisable to replace the slave cylinder when replacing the clutch or better to just leave it alone if it is working? (it makes sense to change it while I have it apart, but I note many people have subsequently had lots of issues as a result)

3) If the slave cylinder isn’t replaced, what is the typical failure mode of these – i.e. is it likely to leak and spoil the friction plate or just simply stop working?

4) If I replace the slave cyl it seems the recommendation is to also replace the master cyl – in which case which is the best (most reliable) combination of parts? – I’ve read contradicting advice on metal/plastic cylinders.

5) Is it typically better to drop the subframe or work with it in place? (I note it can be done both ways)


Finally, can anyone recommend a good online supplier for the parts?
Any feedback gratefully appreciated.

[trikey]

I would recommend replacing the slave cylinder while you are in there, chances are it will fall apart upon removal anyway, I always recommend LuK or Borg & Beck.

Remove the subframe completely, it gives much better access and far easier to work in the space.

Don't go near metal master or slave cylinders, only change the master cylinder if its leaking, otherwise remove, clean refit then flush through with new fluid before connecting up to the new slave.

[Blink]

Originally Posted by trikey

......Remove the subframe completely, it gives much better access and far easier to work in the space. .....

Andy - how hard is it to change the clutch? (if the subframe isn't there)

[trikey]

Originally Posted by Blink

Andy - how hard is it to change the clutch? (if the subframe isn't there)

Quite a simple job if you are fairly good with the spanners.

Removing the subframe makes the job so much easier and it’s a lot better on the mechanical bits too.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Blink]

Originally Posted by trikey

Quite a simple job if you are fairly good with the spanners.

Removing the subframe makes the job so much easier and it’s a lot better on the mechanical bits too.

No problems on the spanner front. I'm more concerned with things like lack of working room (I don't have a lift ) and not having any special tools etc. Rave's clutch & manual gearbox sections show several tools being used at various points.

Btw, the front subframe will be coming off anyway for a full de-rust, repaint and wax.

[DMGRS]

My best recommendation would be this kit, specifying the LUK Slave Cylinder:
https://www.dmgrs.co.uk/collections/...1068-uub100193

The clutch included is a 2 piece kit we've had put together for us - with a Genuine MG Rover AP cover plate, and a custom high-torque friction disc with springs for a smooth drive takeup (and long term reliability).

We've sold lots of these, and they've always been well-regarded

[marinabrian]

Repset Pro with a lifetime warranty, whatever that means

LINK

Brian

[Mike Noc]

Originally Posted by Rover600

Hello all,

It looks like I need to put a new clutch in our 75 KV6 2.5

Bite point is very high and it has slipped on a few occasions – this seems commensurate with its age and mileage (2002 90k)
I’ve changed several clutches before but never on a 75 and reading though several threads I get the impression this has been a contentious subject for a number of years!

I'm not sure how much of the information is still relevant today, so my questions are:

1) Currently, what is the recommendation for the best (most reliable) available clutch components? (i.e. AP, Luk etc)

In all honesty if you want a really decent slave cylinder then buy another make of car - there are loads out there. I replaced the slave on my Dad's Astra a couple of years ago and it was a far superior quality compared to the 75 OEM item. They weren't fit for purpose from the start - they usually don't even outlast the friction disc, the bit that should wear out!

I've fitted a friction disc from when I replaced my slave from my 75 to my Freelander because it was well within the service limits, and would in all probability outlast the new slave cylinder.

When I do them I fit LUK which is probably the best current option, but that doesn't say much.

[Bolin]

I did manage to remove my KV6 clutch without touching the subframe, but it was all a horrible job. So I suggest you do as Trikey says as there is not much room.

[Rover600]

Originally Posted by DMGRS

My best recommendation would be this kit, specifying the LUK Slave Cylinder:
https://www.dmgrs.co.uk/collections/...1068-uub100193

The clutch included is a 2 piece kit we've had put together for us - with a Genuine MG Rover AP cover plate, and a custom high-torque friction disc with springs for a smooth drive takeup (and long term reliability).

We've sold lots of these, and they've always been well-regarded

Do you have these in stock at the moment?